Jump to content

Bl And Tire Questions.


Recommended Posts

Posted

Pic's are before and after torsion bar crank.

 

With the new rims and tires 285/60/18 toyo a/t I lost 30-40 miles to the full tank of gas, and thats keeping my foot out of it.

 

Questions:

1. If I go back to 265 I know I will get some of those mpg back but will they look to small with my current setup and adding a zone 1.5" body lift on top of it?

 

2. I know you can lose mpg with lift and aerodynamics, but if I do add the 1.5" bl and stick with a 285 tire will I see more mpg loss? Will the zone 1.5" bl cause me to lose additional mpg? I know its not a monster lift compared to others but I'm sure some of you have been in the same boat.

 

thanks,

God Bless

post-91354-1315155144_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155186_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155144_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155186_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155144_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155186_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155144_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155186_thumb.jpg

Posted

Also this pic is current and months after I did the torsion bar crank, it seems to have added the rake in front again, is this bad shocks? I know the front is the heavier end of the truck, the bump stops were clearing after crank, but they are slightly touching now.

 

 

The shocks are originals with over 115 thousand miles, which I know is well over due, but if I do replace the shocks will it pick up the front again or will I have to crank again after new shocks to get level?

 

Thanks,

God Bless

Any input is much appreciated

post-91354-1315155732_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155732_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155732_thumb.jpg

post-91354-1315155732_thumb.jpg

Posted

Well, your torsion bars are "tired" somewhat. Your shocks have little to do with front end sag. Also,. you say you lost mileage with the 285's, but did you re-program for the 285s? If not, then your mileage isn't reporting correctly. If you did.... obviously the 265's would help gain that mileage back due to the weight difference. And I don't believe the 265's will look small. They'll be fine. :)

Posted

ah stevens: yes I got the tire specs and put it into a flahpaq superchips, although I have recently tried to use it and I get a "vehicle did not respond correctly", so I'am unsure if it saved the information/settings or not, (although i did do it before I started getting an error reading).

 

I am looking at falken wild country 265 at $150 each, but the 285's at $159 each are tempting.

 

Do I have to re crank after adding bl and new shocks, since you say the shocks will not help it any?

Posted

I lost 2 mpg with my 3"lift, but I have since got it back through tuning. I had the nose dip and I did the 3" and didnt touch the torsion bars. It still has the nose dive obviously but its not noticeable with the bl on. I say keep the 285s. I wish I had gone 305s now

Posted

gregs: yea I'm just looking at the 1.5" for a little more clearance, I'm not crying about mpg and trying to do mods at the same time, i just dont want to lose what I already am getting, 18-19 highway, since I do long commutes. But after college Iguess it wont matter since my commutes will be significantly less and in town.

 

I always thought you had to level the truck when doing a BL?

 

And no thanks with the 305's.lol, Yes it is true once you start adding you keep on going bigger, but I know my limits. Although I do have to say, those trucks look sexy.

Posted

The body lift does just that,... it lifts the body. You won't have to re-adjust the torsion bars. It sounds to me the superchips program didn't take. Your mileage might not be as off as you think. Does it have the ability to upload software updates from the superchips website? If so, I'd look into that and see if you can get the truck programmed right.

Posted
The body lift does just that,... it lifts the body. You won't have to re-adjust the torsion bars. It sounds to me the superchips program didn't take. Your mileage might not be as off as you think. Does it have the ability to upload software updates from the superchips website? If so, I'd look into that and see if you can get the truck programmed right.

 

What he said. U can't go off anything till CPU is tuned for taller tires.

Posted

I will check into it tonight/tomorrow. I know I set it for tow and then tried to reset it back to 87octane and thats when I started getting the errors, so as of now I do not know if it is on no settings (stock) or still on the tow setting, but I did re calibrate the tires before it started reading errors.

 

I have never plugged it into cpu/website since I have gotten it, but it also has never given me a "vehicle did not respond correctly" reading. For x-mas I will be getting a blackbear tune, and do away with the superchips flashpaq.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
    • Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system.  They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly.       Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...