Speaker Issues

[century7]

Hi all,

 

Let me first say i have done some searching on the forum and can not find what i am looking for. I also am far from an audio expert, i am happy as long as my factory system works which it no longer is. I have a 2007 Silverado ext cab Classic with just a standard radio, cd and for a reason that i have yet to figure out a cassseete player(didn't they stop making those in 1995). Over the last few weeks my front driver side speaker was going out intermitely, if i tapped the speaker it would come back. Yeasterday the rear driver side went out on me. I was able to tell it was out by adjusting the balance and fade so only that speaker would be on. I am assuming the speaker is blown, but am not 100% sure. I do not want buy speakers and find out it still doesn't work. Could it possilby be the head unit or a bad wire? I think it is oddthat both of them that are acting up are on the drivers side which are the doors that are opened and closed the most. If i need to buy speakers am i better off replacing all of them at once and what are some good ones to replace them with?

[mhenshaw]

I don't know if the classic uses different speakers but the 07 and up have a problem with speakers cutting out. Many of us including myself have had a speakers cut off and on. The only real fix is to replace them.

[Patch6713]

When I bought my 05 used it had problems with the speakers cutting out. Brought it back to the dealer and they hooked it up to the computer and they said the codes that came up were indicating something like intermittent speaker failure. Since it was still under warranty they replaced the speakers and have had no problem since. Maybe you can see if there are and codes coming up for speaker problems before you go out and replace them.

[century7]

I am way off of warrenty i do not want to bring it back to the dealer as that will cost me. Any recommendations on speaker to replace the old ones with? Maybe some that will sound a little clearer, also how hard is to acces the speakers?

[halflenny]

Getting to the speakers isn't too bad. You need to tear the panels out of the inside of the door... start at the triangle trim (pry it off) then there's three or four bolts and a clip to pull the inside of the door off. It will lift up a bit and then pull straight out to you. The speaker is just right there, grab a nice fat standard screwdriver and push the clip, speaker comes right out.

 

As far as new speakers go... your local auto parts store has a handful of replacement speakers, even walmart carries some decent ones. Sony x-plod speakers are middle of the road, JL's of course are great, but if you're not that concerned with perfect quality, pioneers are probably all you need. If you are coming straight off the head unit those will last just fine, but if you are going to be looking at an amp in the future forget about the cheapies -- they're not worth it and will explode later

 

I personally use rockford fosgates, and you could get the speakers in the sizes you need off ebay for a decent price if you were going that route. They're not too pricey but you can't beat the sound. The Prime series is all you would ever need to be happy.

 

Hope that helps!

Lenny

[lab-dad]

To check for signal at the speaker use a voltmeter (preferably a digital one).

With the balance and fader set to that one check for voltage,

you should see something i.e. 1-2 volts depending on volume.

This would let you confirm signal was getting to the speaker

-Marty

[century7]

Thanks for all the great info. I actually went to Harbor Freight yeasterday and grabbed the plastic removal tools. I know i do not need them but for $5 i figure they can not hurt. Before i take the doors apart to get access to the speaker i am going to go pick up some new ones. Dumb question though, what size do i need to get? Also are the front and back speakers the same?

[dsr611]

Front and rear speakers are different

 

Crutchfield lists the following:

Front door: 5 1/4", 6 1/2", and 6 3/4" (some 6 1/2" speakers use 6 3/4" frame). You'll probably also need mounting brackets, depending on the size speakers you get.

Rear door: 4" or 4x6

[thecraft]

This is a fairly common problem with the non-Bose GMT800's. Just replace the speakers with quality aftermarket and you'll be on your way!

 

Front and rear speakers are different

 

Crutchfield lists the following:

Front door: 5 1/4", 6 1/2", and 6 3/4" (some 6 1/2" speakers use 6 3/4" frame). You'll probably also need mounting brackets, depending on the size speakers you get.

Rear door: 4" or 4x6

Use 6-1/2" or preferably 6-3/4" speakers for the front and 4"x6" for the rear. Don't bother buying extra mounting brackets for the front speakers, they are cheap plastic and tend to rattle horribly. Just get some self-tapping sheetmetal screws and screw the new speaker directly to the door.

 

Also, unless you buy wiring harness, you will have to cut off the plug that connects to the factory speaker, and then splice new terminals to the factory wiring. Usually new speakers come with the terminals and lengths of speaker wire, so you should be fine. Here are the wire color codes:

 

 

Left Front Spkr + 	TNLeft Front Spkr -	  GYRight Front Spkr +	  L.GNRight Front Spkr -	  D.GNLeft Rear Spkr + 	BNLeft Rear Spkr -	  YWRight Rear Spkr +	  D.BURight Rear Spkr -	  L.BU

 

[century7]

This is a fairly common problem with the non-Bose GMT800's. Just replace the speakers with quality aftermarket and you'll be on your way!

 

Front and rear speakers are different

 

Crutchfield lists the following:

Front door: 5 1/4", 6 1/2", and 6 3/4" (some 6 1/2" speakers use 6 3/4" frame). You'll probably also need mounting brackets, depending on the size speakers you get.

Rear door: 4" or 4x6

Use 6-1/2" or preferably 6-3/4" speakers for the front and 4"x6" for the rear. Don't bother buying extra mounting brackets for the front speakers, they are cheap plastic and tend to rattle horribly. Just get some self-tapping sheetmetal screws and screw the new speaker directly to the door.

 

Also, unless you buy wiring harness, you will have to cut off the plug that connects to the factory speaker, and then splice new terminals to the factory wiring. Usually new speakers come with the terminals and lengths of speaker wire, so you should be fine. Here are the wire color codes:

 

 

Left Front Spkr +	 TNLeft Front Spkr -	  GYRight Front Spkr +	  L.GNRight Front Spkr -	  D.GNLeft Rear Spkr +	 BNLeft Rear Spkr -	  YWRight Rear Spkr +	  D.BURight Rear Spkr -	  L.BU

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, I just picked up the rear speakers and am hoping to get them installed this week. Then might tackle the fronts.

[century7]

HELP!!!!!!!!

 

So yesterday i took apart the rear door and planned on replacing the speakers with some Sony Xplodes that i picked up. But ran into a few problems i am hoping you guys can help me with.

 

1st- the factory speakers are on a bracket with snaps that i could not get apart. I am guessing i could just screw them into the sheet metal on the interior of the door but i foresee that leading to more problems in the future.

 

2nd- there is a plug that connects to speaker to the wiring harness. then new speaker did not have the plug to attachch it. Do i have to cut the plug off and splice on the connvectors in the box? I would like to keep in the plug if at all possilbe.

 

3rd- I wanted to see how the front speakers in the door were like so i went to take the front drivers side door off. I removed the screws, the cap over the door handle and the cap that covers the mirror and could not get hte panel off. What is the trick?

 

 

Thanks for any input you can provide!

[century7]

nobody?

 

Please help!

[thecraft]

HELP!!!!!!!!

 

So yesterday i took apart the rear door and planned on replacing the speakers with some Sony Xplodes that i picked up. But ran into a few problems i am hoping you guys can help me with.

 

1st- the factory speakers are on a bracket with snaps that i could not get apart. I am guessing i could just screw them into the sheet metal on the interior of the door but i foresee that leading to more problems in the future.

 

Screwing them directly to the door won't cause any problems. In fact, that would be better than attempting to reuse the crappy factory bracket that just clips into the door. Aftermarket speakers use standard dimensions and patterns, so you won't have to make new holes in the sheet metal if you have to replace the speakers again.

 

2nd- there is a plug that connects to speaker to the wiring harness. then new speaker did not have the plug to attachch it. Do i have to cut the plug off and splice on the connvectors in the box? I would like to keep in the plug if at all possilbe.

Yes, cut off the plugs and attach the quick-connectors that came with the speakers. If you aren't planning on putting the factory speakers back in, there is no reason to keep the plugs. If you insist on keeping the plugs, then see this:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...=136221&hl=

[aesalazar]

HELP!!!!!!!!

3rd- I wanted to see how the front speakers in the door were like so i went to take the front drivers side door off. I removed the screws, the cap over the door handle and the cap that covers the mirror and could not get hte panel off. What is the trick?

 

Here is a good video to remove the front door panel:

 

 

[Dilatory]

Near the hinge is one push-in fastener that needs to be pried out, near the striker there's a cap covering a torx screw.. On the underside/bottom of the panel there's a bolt, underneath the door handle there's a pry-off cover with 1-2 bolts behind it and the sail panel, of course. Edit: Oh and of course, don't forget to pry out the lock mechanism cover. You'll destroy your lock actuator if you don't. Oh, and the interior light on the bottom of the door, but it can technically be disconnected after the door is popped off, but I prefer to remove it prior to the fact.

 

Once all that's removed pull straight up and it should come freely, then you have to disconnect the door controls which is a bit tricky