5.3L rebuild

06_GMC · January 6, 2012

Wow thats awesome! Well keep us updated and hopefully it'll be up and running in no time!

ride65 · January 6, 2012

it'l be a couple weeks anyways, this is just a side project along with the 50 other that I have going,(the wife says I have AAHD or something) the block and crank are supposed to be done early next week , then I can order the pistons and bearings to size. Then the fun begins, the build-up is always better than the prep work.

ride65 · January 7, 2012

Just about done cleaning parts and starting to put together a misc. list of all the stuff I need and started to think about paint for the block, I was just going to use a high temp. (1200 deg.) gloss black rustoleum. anything out there better that wouldn't break the bank?

ride65 · January 14, 2012

Still waitin' on the block. Thinking about painting the grill with the vinyl fence paint I read about in another post. a little stir crazy with the waiting.

06_GMC · January 15, 2012

Sure why not? Make use of the time I guess! I think that Rust Oleum engine paint is worth it too. It's always held good in the applications i've seen.

ride65 · January 15, 2012

Has anybody out there had problems with exhaust manifold bolts sheering off at the head. I noticed that the original 5.3 in my Yukon had 2 on each side with no head. The junk yard motor that I picked up to rebuild had 2 on pass. side and 1 on drivers bank sheared off. They spin out with vice grips, but I would like to replace them with stainless or something . Any thoughts on this or where I could get the stainless studs?

arz71 · January 16, 2012

Did it gall the aluminum threads in the head?

Stainless steel will still rust/corode since it will be hot/cold, I would recommend either new factory bolts and/or ARP fasterners and apply anti-sieze compound to them.

I would let the broken studs soak with a spray designed to penetrate rust/corrusion.

ride65 · January 16, 2012

Didn't mess with the alum. at all, it's like the heads were sheared off, leaving a stud. Grabbed the protruding part with vice-grips and they spun right out.

06_GMC · January 19, 2012

Yeah this is a typical issue and you got lucky by having just the heads come off. I'd look into the OEM updated replacements or ARP fastener's, they just tend to be a little pricey. Also i'd suggest getting a set of shorty headers to prevent this from happening again. It's a cause of a poor exhaust manifold design.

redjewel2ss · January 19, 2012

i haven't used them, but Stage 8 makes a locking header bolt. they look pretty interesting

ride65 · January 19, 2012

called gmc parts today and they came out with a harder bolt in 2004 that fits back to 1999 P/N 11518860 - 1.46 each, not too bad. Still might go with an equivalent stainless if I can find them for less than 100.00 a set. Been thinking about headers, still waitin' on the block. The place that boils-out the block went on vacation and didn't bother mention that fact when the block was dropped off. Set backs and cost over runs, the adventures of the DIY'er. Headers might have to wait, I've heard that the shorties are are waste of money?, any experience with this out there?

edit - missed a zero on the part number

06_GMC · January 21, 2012

Well the only reason I was going to do Shorties was to prevent the warp and possibility of another bolt breaking. Not so much for performance and I found a set for about 280 online.

ride65 · January 26, 2012

Picking up the block and crank today . Been keeping busy on the "hobby" by replacing odds and ends that are easy to get to with the front clip off, one of those easy to get to items were the brake lines. Got the front lines and the ABS to master cylinder all bent and ready to install when a buddy told me about a place called http://www.inlinetube.com . Could of got a complete set (all the lines except the rubber lines) of stainless, pre-bent, exactly like OEM for 249.00. Talk about pissed. I spent over a 100.00 and had to bend them myself. Just thought I'd pass this along, they make everything involving tubes to OEM spec.

ride65 · March 11, 2012

Nope..... didn't die, burn the truck, or give up on the "project" as one member accurately describe it. Got laid off, money got tight, had to fix a few daughters' cars. Finally ordered my parts and picked up a cam (GM12561721, 37,000miles) used, with springs, for some welding work on a roll cage. pretty fair swap all around. Cams not much different but better than original stock. I'm gonna' press in the cam bearings this week and put the pistons on the rods. Ended up with cylinders .020 over, crank checked out good, got it polished and oil holes chamfered.

Got a few questions for anyone with Gen III rebuild experience.

1. Was told in casual conversation that I should replace the rear engine cover that holds the crank seal, They warp and never seal properly after single use. Checked mine, no distortion at all. BS or sound advice?

2. Replace the bolts for the mains, I've got the helms manual and nothing is said about this.

3. Get rid of the steam line going to the throttle body, kinda makes sense(cooler inlet air) but what about January in Michigan, is the trade off worth it?

4. Use the Fel-Pro pro lock flange sealant (part #221) on all gaskets, except head and exhaust , for extra insurance against leaks, regardless of brand of gaskets.

Let the fun begin

DylZim97 · April 25, 2016

Sorry for reopening this post up but I have a 5.3L in an 03 suburban and I'm wanting to rebuild it and add at least one 70mm turbo maybe two what I am wondering is if anyone has any good advice on a heavy duty stage 3-4 rebuild kit or stroker kit that will with stand the power and pressure and give me some ideas on what they think I should do completely so the engine will last awhile and not go to hell after a year or two their is no budget right now cause I'm still driving it and it only has 130,000 on it I've already got a stage 4 4l60e tranny which I know is still shit but I'm working on swapping it with the 80e just need a few more parts to get her up in their