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Add-on amp wiring using factory H.U.

ChevyTech77

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ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

O.K. Gents, I know we've talked all kinds of amp, speaker and stereo talk in other threads but I have some specific questions that I need specific answers to, on my vehicle.

 

So as some of you know, I have already replaced the factory speakers with some Rockford Fosgate 6-1/2" three way speakers. Some of you also know that I have a 10" JL Audio sub in a subthump box, with the JX250/1 JL Audio amp to power it. I was orginally going to just run this system for now but have decided that I may want to add another amp, for the door speakers. My questions are for the wiring side of this install.

 

Here's a link to the amp for my door speakers that I'm planning on running... http://www.sonicelec...IME-R300-4.html

 

1. I am planning on getting a line out convertor to connect both amps to the truck with rca cables but my JX250/1 has rca out's on it, also. Can I just run one set of rca's back to the sub amp and then run a short set from the sub amp to the door speaker amp or should I run a set to each amp?? If two sets, can they be run together? (Down the same side of the truck)

 

2. I still want to retain the use of my factory speaker wiring with the rca convertor so is it ok to run the speaker wires (outputs from the amp) back to the front of the truck stacked with the rca cables without running the chance for interferance?

 

3. I assume that most people still run their power cable down one side of the vehicle and then the rca cables down the other? I never have but have seen where other people say it's a necessity.

 

4. I am planning to mount the amps behind my back seat so I will probably have to make a mount board similar to SKANK!'s or of similar construction. I'm going to power both amps with 4 gauge, from the battery back to a splitter, and then divide both amps down to 8 gauge in the back of the truck. Sound o.k.?

 

5. Who makes a good, quality, line out convertor that I can hopefully just leave in the dash and forgot about it without having to worry about it?

 

I'm sure there's more questions that I have but can't think of them right this second but how about these that I've listed, any ideas?

parshal Enthusiast

parshal

Posted
Posted

1. I can't answer this.

 

2. This is what I did.

 

3. I ran the power down the driver's side and the RCAs down the passenger side. I originally had the trigger wire down the driver's side but it's now down the passenger side and I have no interference.

 

4. I think this really depends on what size wire the amps want. My amp (JL 900/5) called for 4 gauge to the amp.

 

5. PAC makes good ones. I have an SNI-35 and a SOEM-T that bought for my setup but did not use. I'm willing to donate them for a small fee (ie - very cheap) since I don't need them.

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1. I can't answer this.

 

2. This is what I did.

 

3. I ran the power down the driver's side and the RCAs down the passenger side. I originally had the trigger wire down the driver's side but it's now down the passenger side and I have no interference.

 

4. I think this really depends on what size wire the amps want. My amp (JL 900/5) called for 4 gauge to the amp.

 

5. PAC makes good ones. I have an SNI-35 and a SOEM-T that bought for my setup but did not use. I'm willing to donate them for a small fee (ie - very cheap) since I don't need them.

 

 

What is the difference between the loc's you have listed there?

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So can one set of rca cables, off either of those loc's, be used for a sub amp and one for a four channel door speaker amp?

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The amp manual says that's what they're for so that will cut me down some wiring. Send me a pm about what you have to have for those loc's sent to Michigan area code 48604.

 

Anybody else want to chime in here? Seems just the other day we had all kinds of car audio experts hanging around here giving out advice and today, nothing. Just me? LOL.

  • 3 weeks later...
ap0352 Enthusiast

ap0352

Posted
Posted

 

1. I am planning on getting a line out convertor to connect both amps to the truck with rca cables but my JX250/1 has rca out's on it, also. Can I just run one set of rca's back to the sub amp and then run a short set from the sub amp to the door speaker amp or should I run a set to each amp?? If two sets, can they be run together? (Down the same side of the truck)

 

2. I still want to retain the use of my factory speaker wiring with the rca convertor so is it ok to run the speaker wires (outputs from the amp) back to the front of the truck stacked with the rca cables without running the chance for interferance?

 

3. I assume that most people still run their power cable down one side of the vehicle and then the rca cables down the other? I never have but have seen where other people say it's a necessity.

 

4. I am planning to mount the amps behind my back seat so I will probably have to make a mount board similar to SKANK!'s or of similar construction. I'm going to power both amps with 4 gauge, from the battery back to a splitter, and then divide both amps down to 8 gauge in the back of the truck. Sound o.k.?

 

5. Who makes a good, quality, line out convertor that I can hopefully just leave in the dash and forgot about it without having to worry about it?

 

I'm sure there's more questions that I have but can't think of them right this second but how about these that I've listed, any ideas?

 

 

 

1. Yes you can run 1 set of RCA's to your sub amp and then run a set from that amp's outputs to another amp assuming your JL amp outputs a full-range signal on those RCA outs. (Some amps will not output a full range signal if you have any type of signal processing activated on the amp.) Check your owner"s manual. And for future reference, always run your signal wires/cables together and as far away from your power source as possible.

 

2. Yes, that is ok, just make sure you pick up a decent set of shielded cables. I use Stinger 6000 series. They are cheap and very effective at blocking noise.

 

3. Its not necessary, its just a good rule of thumb. Signal cables are notorious for picking up noise so we always try to minimize that amount by running the cables seperately.

 

4. Sounds good but why not use 4 awg all the way around? Its cheap and if your amp accepts it, use it.

 

5. In a short answer, no one. They are extremely cheap pieces of engineering and most don't work worth a shit. I started out with a PAC Oem-1 but was horrified with the results. I eventually changed over to a MTX REQ-5 which was night and day over the PAC and it also provided a little bit of audio control. I ended up switching to a JBL MS-8 because I wanted a big EQ, Time Alignment and multiple crossover selections.

If the MS-8 wasn't around or I wasn't worried about control, I would stick with the REQ-5. Audiocontrol also makes some good LOC type equipment.

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the heads up!!

 

I have a PAC loc that only has two speaker and one set of rca outputs so I assume that would not give my full range output on my rca's? Plus, it does look awefull chinsy/cheap so I might just upgrade.

 

My JL 250/1 sub amp does state that if I put full range into the amp, through the rca's, it will output full range so that's good. Saves on the wiring running from front to back.

 

I would just go with 4 gauge for everything but I have to by a distribution block for the power and ground anyway and most that I have seen are 4 down to 2 8's. Plus, I have a TON of 8 gauge left from my old truck to use up.

 

Yup, I have good shielded rca's so no issues there.

 

As far as speaker wires going back up front, I found that most everybody makes a 9 wire cable for doing just that, hooking a 4 channel amp up and reusing the factory speaker wiring.

 

I just want this install to go as clean as possible and not spend a fortune doing it. I do fine fixing cars (its my job) and have done a few amp/speaker/system installs in the past but this is my brand new truck/baby. I don't want it all hacked up so for the sake of that, I've decided to do this install myself. It will take me longer than most but hopefully not all summer.

 

Thanks again. :cheers:

ap0352 Enthusiast

ap0352

Posted
Posted

That PCA should still give you a full range signal. The factory GM unit, non-bose, puts out full range signals on all channels.

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