Jump to content

How-To: Replace Wiper Arms GMT800 Pickups.

Lv1G6He3V2

Recommended Posts

Lv1G6He3V2 Enthusiast

Lv1G6He3V2

Posted
Posted

Instructions

  1. Pop the hood.
  2. Use flat-head screwdriver to pry caps off wiper arm nuts.
  3. Use wrench (or sockets) to remove the nuts.
  4. Generously spray silicone (or WD40) on the threads, letting it seep into wiper arm mounting holes.
  5. To work lubricant into holes, move wiper arms in up/down and in normal window-wiping motions.
  6. Press wiper arm near mounting holes - press it toward windshield! - to release spring tension on mounts.
  7. Keeping pressure on the springs, gently turn and pry the arms off. This may take a few tries.
  8. Grab hard plastic wiper fluid connector, and pry it off hole on windshield cowl.
  9. Reverse steps 1-8 to install new wiper arms.

 

Now would be a good time to test wiper fluid sprayer and wiper motion.

 

 

Notes

  • Do this when the engine is cool. Removing the passenger's side wiper arm requires leaning over the engine.
  • The driver's side wiper arm has an extra rectangular piece in middle of arm.
  • Spread a towel or rag over passenger side body panel (near fender) to avoid belt/pants scratching vehicle.
  • Close doors and windows while testing wiper fluid sprayer!
  • Leave roughly 3/4 inch distance between wiper arm and windshield cowl.

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 5,172 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • JAI3
      2016 Sierra 5.3L L83 new injectors now runs rich.

      By JAI3 · Posted

      I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Coastie05
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No, but don't skimp on safe! 😉 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...