Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2000 Chevy Express Van 1500, 5.7L. Brake lights work fine until the headlights are turned on. When the headlights are turned on and the brake applied, the bottom running lights (same bulb as brake lights, different filament) go out and the brake lights do not come on. Third brake light works ok regardless. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

A bad bulb can actually cause problems like this. The third brake light has it's own circuit, which explains why it still functions. And since the third brake light works, that eliminates the fuse and brake switch as the trouble maker. That means your problem is occurring from the brake light switch to the bulb.

 

You could try swapping out each brake light / tail light bulb with a new one and see if the problem persists. For the price, ya can't compain.

Edited by oldscsc
Posted

I just changed all the bulbs, even the front running/signals. One of the front signal bulbs twisted off in my hand so they needed to be changed anyway. Though it might have been the problem but no luck. Thanks for the info on the brake sw & fuse. Any other thoughts or ideas?

Posted

See if you can get a helper to keep a foot on the brake (or rig up a broomstick or something similar). Turn the headlights on. Then remove one headlight bulb and see if the brake lights act normally. If there're still acting up, try the other bulb. That's all assuming you didn't put new headlights in it.

 

Let me know if that doesn't fix it and I'll look at the diagram when I can and see what else could be going on.

Posted

Can I disconnect the headlights one at a time, it is easier than removing the bulbs as I would have to remove the battery to get at the pass side one?

Posted

You will have either a bad socket, or bad ground. When it is caused by a bulb, it is generally the dual filament bulb having one filament breaking and the loose end connects to the other filament giving a feedback issue.

Try taking out the parking light fuse and see if it works now.

Posted

I will give that a try tomorrow. Getting cold and windy here and have to work outside. Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it!

Posted

I agree with the loose / dirty ground. My computer isn't loading the diagram (or anything else for that matter...) so I can't tell you where it's grounded at.

Posted (edited)

I pulled the fuse for the parking lights and the brake lights now WORK with the headlights on. The fuse controls the lic plate, tail, park, fr side markers, glove box & ash tray lights. Bad socket in one of these locations and/or can it be a bad ground as well? I didn't replace the side mkr bulbs but I will. This van has a total of 4 rear lights, two on each side. The top lights are the running/turn (2057), the bottom are the running/brake (1157). All 4 are dual filament.

Edited by 66vetteman
Posted (edited)

 

A bad socket can cause a bad ground (poor connection). Or your ground could still be loose and / or dirty. Try putting the fuse back in and pull each bulb that is powered by that fuse. Start with the dual filament bulbs (as said above, they are generally the problem). After pulling each one, check to see if the lights function properly and get back to us.

Edited by oldscsc
Posted

Put the fuse back in and pulled all the bulbs, one at a time, replacing the previous one before pulling the next. Brake light did not work when the headlights were turned on.

Posted
Put the fuse back in and pulled all the bulbs, one at a time, replacing the previous one before pulling the next. Brake light did not work when the headlights were turned on.

 

That sounds like a bad socket then. It will be one of the rear sockets that does both parking and brake lights.

Posted

I was able to find only one socket so I replaced the one I thought most likely to be the culprit. Now the brake light with the new socket works and the other one doesn't when the headlights are turned on. In fact it is dimmer than before when the brakes are on with the headlights off. Does this make sense? I have another socket on order, be here Monday.

 

Interesting findings when shopping for a tail light socket. GM only services the tailight harness, $111.82 for each side. NAPA had the socket only with wire pigtails for $24.85. They also have the harness assy for $18.52 per side. So the harness assy which has 3 sockets, wire harness and connector to plug into the main harness is LESS than the socket only and over $93 LESS than GM. ??????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...