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How-To: Rekey Your Jump Seat.


hzhardy
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I recently purchased a jump seat from a fellow member schlegle1 and it had arrived today. As you all can imagine my key would not obviously work in it. When I do not have to go to work I am always carrying a firearm on my person. With that being said not all place are legal to carry so I would have to leave it in the truck. I am really big on security as my whole job is just that, so I find it highly un-acceptable to leave a loaded easily in reach. Some may argue that they will get in the console anyways and they are completely right, but i will put up as many barriers as possible to make it just more difficult. My dealer surprisingly offered to do this for me for free, but i am very impatient when it come to services as I am a huge DIY guy. As stated before my job is security for the government so I have worked on many high security safes and locks as I run many key registries and repined multiple high security locks, so how hard can a plastic console lock be right? So lets get on track with the how to. Below is a picture of my lock that i have already removed.

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to dissemble you have to remove the c-clip and lock bar. the component retain the lock plug in the lock position of it would come out when you remove the key.

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Sadly but expected the lock is so cheap that you can manipulate the key in and out slightly while applying pressure. This is similar bump keying a lock. doing allows you to use the key cut to move the waffers to align them to be able to spin the plug. Once turning hold key in place and the plug will come out with the key.

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The lock is actually capable of having 5 waffers and springs. the more waffers or pins the more secure the lock will be. These locks come with only 3.

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here is a picture of what is a waffer and spring as you notice it is not a pin at all hence the term I am using. The spring goes into the slot in the plug and the wafer rests on top. You do not have to worry about them flying out as they have a detent thet when press into its location it will not fall out unless you pull it out.

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as stated before the lock only comes with three wafer in use. Keys are usually only cut with 9 different depth per pin/wafer. High security locks a different angle and more cuts, but with make it lot more finicky as a side load from a heavy key ring on a lock with tight tolerance potentially would not open. At this point you can use a set of needle noses to pull the wafer out and move them around to the 5 slots to match the right depth on your key.I was able to use two wafers with my cut.

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Below you can see the wafer to the right is a bit to high so it will not work.

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to reasemble place the key in the plug and line up the notch on the plug to cylinder and reasemble the lock bar and c-clip.

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I hope this helps someone as am very picky to the fact that if I am going to upgrade part like this they will work 100% as intended. Is obvious when some just throws something together with little details like this. Again i hope this helps, enjoy.

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BTW if you do not fill comfortable doing this send me a pm and you can mail me your lock a cut key for your truck that does not have the chip (cheap hardware store copy) with the head cut off so it cannot be used and I will complete this for just the cost of postage. I stand twelve hour watches and would love to do these in the middle of the night bored of my a$$ lol.

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  • 6 years later...
On 10/10/2012 at 8:52 PM, hzhardy said:

BTW if you do not fill comfortable doing this send me a pm and you can mail me your lock a cut key for your truck that does not have the chip (cheap hardware store copy) with the head cut off so it cannot be used and I will complete this for just the cost of postage. I stand twelve hour watches and would love to do these in the middle of the night bored of my a$$ lol.

Are you still in the service? If I can't figure this out can I still send it to you? I was a Sonar technician on Nuclear Submarines from 2009 to 2014. Now I'm a Corrections Officer.

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