Jump to content

Hesitation after new muffler


Recommended Posts

Posted

Is it possible that the slight hesitation I recently acquired is coming from the GMPP sport muffler I had installed? My truck was running fine and I took advantage of a great price on the GMPP sport muffler only. The shop that installed it used 2.5" connections since he was out of 2.75" pipe. He said that the muffler was more free flowing than the factory system so the small reduction of the pipe connections was still better than the original set up. I don't drive the truck much since I work from home now and about 3 weeks after I installed the muffler, I drove the truck daily for a 40 minute commute each way. That's when I noticed a slight hesitation on acceleration from a dead stop of at less than 1500 rpm in first.

 

The only real mods to the truck are a black bear 87 tune, the muffler and I gutted the bottom of my factory air box to allow more air in than the factory 1"x4" fender opening.

 

BTW, I did email Jenna and Justin and asked them if I need a retune and I haven't heard back from them yet. Any advice is appreciated.

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

you dont need a retune for a new muffler. the hesitation could be you getting used to the truck with the new muffler on. when i add new things i over analyze everything.

Posted

No. This isn't over analyzing anything. There is a distinct hesitation for a second or two when the truck is cold and just starting out. It didn't use to be there and started after I got the muffler. It feels like the timing is retarding or like the fuel filter is clogged or a fuel injector, etc. I'm thinking that the truck is leaned out after the increased exhaust flow.

Posted

I dont think the flow of the exhaust would cause that. I would look at your injectors. now that you mentioned it, this was the first COLD morning we have had and my throttle has a lag too until the engine gets warm.

Posted

You should not have any hesitation from the muffler. Sounds mechanical just from your description....try cleaning your MAF, and throttle body. What gas are you running? Most places just switched to winter blends.

Posted

No. This isn't over analyzing anything. There is a distinct hesitation for a second or two when the truck is cold and just starting out. It didn't use to be there and started after I got the muffler. It feels like the timing is retarding or like the fuel filter is clogged or a fuel injector, etc. I'm thinking that the truck is leaned out after the increased exhaust flow.

 

I had a similar issue with my 03 2500 HD 6.0. As the outside temps got colder it would sometimes stall / run rough after startup. A quick check of fuel pressure revealed the problem. IIRC it was low about 5 psi. Changed out the FPR corrected the issue.

Posted

Ditto what Jennabear said. I just cleaned my MAF sensor and throttle body the other day and I could tell the diff. Also gas lately at least around me seems to be crapy, maybe you got a little bit a bad gas.

 

 

Also, scottmoyer your truck looks awesome, I think I like that body style a lil bit better than the 900's.

Posted

Ok. I guess I didn't provide enough details for people to know the timing of this problem. I installed the muffler in late June. The truck sits in the garage most of the time and gets driven only when I need to go somewhere. I work from home, so there is no daily commute. About three weeks after the install, still during the warm Florida summer, I needed to drive daily to a job site about 40 minutes away. I noticed it then that I was getting this hesitation. The Chevy dealer told me they couldn't reproduce the issue so I have been researching it myself.

 

Three weeks ago, I bought a can of MAF cleaner and cleaned the MAF. I also bought a can of throttle body cleaner and took care of that. I did the Sea Foam through the brake booster treatment and added some to the gas tank. Still no different.

 

When I refer to the truck being cold, I'm not referring to cold mornings, but just after sitting for a long time like over night or even after a few hours. Again, this issue was first noticed in the middle of a Florida summer, so cold weather isn't an issue. I do run 87 octane and it's been fine with the tune for years. I have had plenty of fill ups since this issue started, so I don't believe bad gas to be the issue. It might have caused this issue though if I have a clogged injector or fuel filter.

 

I replaced the spark plug wires last night and have not driven the truck yet. I'll let you know if that resolves the issue or not. Thanks

Posted

First, nice truck. The black flares look awesome with your color.Second, if it's only when it's cold (the engine not the temp) then it's probably not the muffler. Third, and I may be mistaken, but I think that your muffler shop sold you a bill of goods with the small couplings and "better overall" line. For the sake of discussion , if a 2 inch water pipe flows at twenty gallons a minute and a 1-3/4 inch water pipe flows at 18 gallons a minute, doesn't a 1-3/4 inch fitting in the middle of a two inch pipe reduce the flow of that pipe to 18 gallons per minute? Again, I may be wrong, but it seems to me that while your truck probably sounds better, they didn't do you any favors as far as fuel efficiency or performance gains from better flow as they reduced your system from a 2-3/4 inch system (if that's what your stock system is or was) to a 2-1/2 inch system with the addition of the smaller couplings. Again, I may be way off, but I think that I learned that a whole long time ago in an engineering course for work somewhere...

Posted

The truck has 118k miles now.

 

There is no difference in the hesitation after the spark plug wires were changed. Before somebody says that I'm just throwing parts at a problem, I need to state that the parts being thrown at the truck are parts that probably need replacing now anyway. This was the first plug wire change. I may do the 02 sensors because they are the originals also.

 

I agree with the statement that a smaller hose connected to a larger one will restrict the flow to that of the smaller hose. The factory muffler is not a straight through design, so the air flow might enter the muffler at 2-3/4", but once it hits the muffler, it gets chambered and obstructed before it exits the rear of the muffler. The new GMPP muffler is a free flowing 2-3/4" straight through design. Yes, my exhaust has been restricted to 2.5" at the couplings, but isn't that still better than the factory obstructed muffler?

Posted

You are probably better off than stock, but if my math is correct you're getting just under 91% flow out of your 2.75" system. Those couplings would make a difference in flow by nine or ten percent. I'd ask them to order and install them or get a nine percemt refund.

On the hesitation when cold, I think that I recall my '07 vmax owner's manual saying that a sliight hesitation when cold was normal as the sytem went through checks or some yada yada. Maybe check you manual for the same type lingo. Anyone else have that in their manual?

Posted

If the owner's manual states that it's normal, it would have been there from day one or soon after. Three years short of seven years and 116k miles for a hesitation to start is not something that an owner's manual would acknowledge as normal. It feels like the timing is retarding. I guess I will need to keep researching this.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just reread my last post and found that I can't edit it anymore. It should have read, "three months short of seven years", not three years short. Sorry for that confusion.

 

I did some more digging into work I've recently done and wonder if the following could be an issue. About two weeks prior to noticing this hesitation, I bled my brakes. I did a gravity bleed starting at the standard furthest line 1st and ended with the driver's front. Is it possible that since I didn't use the computer bleed system, that activates the anti lock system, that I may have a brake hanging up causing what feels like a hesitation? Can bleeding brakes cause issues like this? Tomorrow, I'll lift the front end off the ground, start the truck, apply the brakes and see if I can rotate the wheel immediately after releasing the brake pedal. I'll let you know.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If what you are doing works, keep doing it:   4LO (Four-Wheel Drive Low) should only be used in extreme low-speed, high-torque situations such as deep mud, heavy snow, steep rock crawling, or extreme inclines/declines, and you must follow the correct engagement procedure to avoid drivetrain damage. Intended Use Cases Deep mud or snow where traction is extremely poor and you need maximum torque to get unstuck Trucks Only+1. Rock crawling on steep, uneven terrain forum.fullsizechevy.com+1. Extreme inclines or declines where you need to control speed and maintain traction solutionsphere.blog. Heavy towing in low-traction conditions (e.g., deep sand, ice) carclubsusa.com.
    • Hi,   I work a steep boat landing that has patchy blacktop going down the hill and soft sand/gravel at the bottom. Due to low water levels, it's not always possible reach the blacktop. I've had to help several people get out this year already and with fall coming, I'm anticipating more. I always use 4L. There was a gentleman there today with a 2500 HD (actually 2 - him and his son both have them) and they were trying to get his son's wake boat out. This gentleman swears that you should use 4H in the soft gravel. Says he was a farmer and you always use higher gear when stuck. I was wonder what your thoughts on this are? If I'm wrong, it would be good to find out before things get busy.
    • Looking for feedback from users of roll up aluminum slat bed covers who have had it for more than 3 years. I prefer the aluminum slat style over supported vinyl covers due to security and the capacity to support a light load. The slight loss of bed opening when rolled up is not an issue. Presently have BAK Revolver the "industrial grade vinyl overlay" on mine is shrinking & coming loose at the rear and on both sides in addition to cracking at some of the folding joints. Truck lives outdoors in NC latitude. Can't justify the steep price to replace it with another one if that's the expected lifespan. Do you have a better alternative?
    • Thanks, your last sentence is the root of my problem, outdoors truck and southern latitude = UV overload. Looking at replacing with Rough Country powder coated aluminum slat roll up model. 
    • I’m looking at putting a lift in my 2024 gmc sierra 1500 elevation trim, has anyone had any luck with fitting a bigger tire under the rear for a spare?? Was gonna go with a 4 inch zone lift Also what wheel and tire size setup are you all running? Wondering if I can get away with keeping around the stock size a 33 inch, and just get some new wheels to have enough back spacing then I can just keep my original spare tire I have under the truck now.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...