Jump to content

Indentification of Dually Wheels

MrSteve

By MrSteve
in Tires, Wheels & TPMS

Recommended Posts

MrSteve Enthusiast

MrSteve

Posted
Posted

Moved this post to the right forum section.

 

Hello all,

 

I need to tap the combined brainage of the forum. I recently picked up some dually wheels. They are 8 lug, 16" and are supposed to be GM. The bolt pattern matches my 88 GMC perfect. The only strange thing about them is the tire air stem. The air stem is actually on the inside of the wheel vs. on the outer face of the wheel. The air stem prevents the wheel from seating against the brake drum as the drum hits the air stem. Also, the way the wheel is constructed looks different and at least one has the following information factory engraved on the wheel as best that I can see. It is engraved with Firestone very clearly. With somelhing like ACS RIDE underneigth it. It as the following numbers as well: 273 (could be 8) 91 and underneigth that is: 1028 752. Here are some pictures showing the front side and back side of the wheel and air stem. The first picture shows a closeup of the air stem from the front of the wheel. Notice it is inside the wheel. The second is the front of the wheel. The third is a closeup of the air stem from the back of the wheel and the last is the back of the wheel. I have not broken these down as they came with the tires on them. http://www.flickr.co...s/91885052@N07/

 

Anyone ever seen this before? Could these wheels be much older like 50 or 60s or maybe military?

 

Thanks for input!

 

Steve, GA

doverarjim Senior Enthusiast

doverarjim

Posted
Posted

They look like what I have always heard called "Bud" wheel. I can't tell from the pictures but are they split rims. On the out side of the wheel does it look like the rim comes apart? Most of the trucks that used wheels like that are 50's to 70's. :jester:

markw8 Enthusiast

markw8

Posted
Posted

I'm certain they're not split rims. They are older rims though. Possibly off a cab and chassie or the earliest dually pickup from the late 70s.

 

Mark

MrSteve Enthusiast

MrSteve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mark and Jim,

 

I don't believe they are split rims but at first I thought they were because of the ring around the face. Your info helps. Never really seen a set with the ring around the face. I may just move the air stem, weld up the existing hole and put a new one in about an inch in front. Still thinking about it. Thanks again for the info.

 

Steve

MrSteve Enthusiast

MrSteve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hello all,

 

I need to tap the combined brainage of the forum. I recently picked up some dually wheels. They are 8 lug, 16" and are supposed to be GM. The bolt pattern matches my 88 GMC perfect. The only strange thing about them is the tire air stem. The air stem is actually on the inside of the wheel vs. on the outer face of the wheel. The air stem prevents the wheel from seating against the brake drum as the drum hits the air stem. Also, the way the wheel is constructed looks different and at least one has the following information factory engraved on the wheel as best that I can see. It is engraved with Firestone very clearly. With somelhing like ACS RIDE underneigth it. It as the following numbers as well: 273 (could be 8) 91 and underneigth that is: 1028 752. Here are some pictures showing the front side and back side of the wheel and air stem. The first picture shows a closeup of the air stem from the front of the wheel. Notice it is inside the wheel. The second is the front of the wheel. The third is a closeup of the air stem from the back of the wheel and the last is the back of the wheel. I have not broken these down as they came with the tires on them. http://www.flickr.co...s/91885052@N07/

 

Anyone ever seen this before? Could these wheels be much older like 50 or 60s or maybe military?

 

Already received some good input about them being maybe 70s.

 

Thanks for input!

 

Steve, GA

TimmyG Senior Enthusiast

TimmyG

Posted
Posted

Why not use a 90deg valve stem

 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

 

doverarjim Senior Enthusiast

doverarjim

Posted
Posted

I can't tell for sure looking at the pictures leads me to think that they are the three piece style rims. On the front side I cant see the whole rim but it is not a regular type of wheel. It looks like you have the split rim that holds the bead rim on to the whole rim. I will try and find some other pictures of this type of wheel. :jester;

MrSteve Enthusiast

MrSteve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, I found out that these were made by Firestone Steel Products Company as Firestone Accu-ride. The company was bought up and a new company formed called Accuride in 1986. I have an email into the new company. Not having much luck on the part number 273(8)91 although the part number matches the numbers used by the Firestone company. At least I know they are pre1986.

  • 8 months later...
DragRacer439 New Member

DragRacer439

Posted
Posted

I have the exact same situation with the exact same wheels. The part number for the wheel is actually on the mounting surface. It is 27772. I have yet to find a match in a Budd Wheel.

 

I am in contact with Stockton Wheel in California to see if they cane make me a new set. I believe these are a split rim & will let you know in a day or so after I get the tire dismounted.

 

The problem with mine is the previous owner left the lugs loose, damaging the stud holes which created a crack from a stud hole to the hand hole. I also want to move the valve stem to the outside & get it away from the brake drum.

post-124338-0-94102800-1379853091_thumb.jpg

post-124338-0-06118200-1379853422_thumb.jpg

post-124338-0-94102800-1379853091_thumb.jpg

post-124338-0-06118200-1379853422_thumb.jpg

post-124338-0-94102800-1379853091_thumb.jpg

post-124338-0-06118200-1379853422_thumb.jpg

post-124338-0-94102800-1379853091_thumb.jpg

post-124338-0-06118200-1379853422_thumb.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black02Silverado
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
    • Dkd71
      GM discontinuing interior parts on a 5YO vehicle??

      By Dkd71 · Posted

      The part # is 84520447, mine does not have the cooled seats but I'm willing to possibly change the cover and foam if needed.   I tried that site and a few others,  added to cart and then paid. About an hout later I received a refund stating it has been discontinued. 
    • Chuck FB
      Installed Bilstein 5100's on my 2024 2500HD - Worth it - VIDEO + GIVEAWAY Inside

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Thought I would add to what Bruce answered, not only do the HD models use the torsion bar system, there are I believe 5 different torsion bar spring ratings that are all physically interchangeable with all the HD trucks going from a two wheel drive 2500 all the way up to the duramax or a gas engine truck with a snow plow prep package front end weight capacity that use the maximum sized torsion bar. It starts from a 4400 lb rated set in 400 lb increments up to 6000 lb. If one wants to fine tune the ride for a certain truck application they can swap out the torsion bars. 
    • Chuck FB
      OIL CONSUMPTION

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off pay close attention to what Newdude pasted as he is a GM tech !.    I have a couple of questions which might cross off some questions others on this forum would be wondering about as well. So when was the engine oil changed prior to this trip, was it almost brand new oil or did it already have a fair bit of use on it before you started the trip.   Did you check the oil level on flat ground and was it at the full mark just before leaving on this trip which I gather from google map is about 700 miles or so. Why I ask and this is not the first time in history that has happened, that either a dealer or some other shop changed the oil on the vehicle and the vehicle left the shop and the owner ( you ) assumed the engine oil was full but in reality the person who changed the oil simply did not put enough oil into the engine .. it happens !. Also that a shop put the wrong viscosity oil in and an engine was not happy with that thinner viscosity and oil got past the rings at a higher rate than the proper viscosity. Not to mention if there was any leaking out of a drain plug or the filter gasket etc. 
    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      You could, although in the end it really doesn't make much difference what comes out in exact terms since it comes down to putting enough back in so that there is enough volume so that something flows back out once the trans is up to temp for the check procedure. I presume your putting a pan on that has a drain plug but its probably the same pan mold/size as at least a while back no extra volume pan was made for the gas truck version due to the exhaust cross over pipe issue. All I can say as per volume I put back in and this was based on changing out the filter as some is trapped in it that does not come out until its removed because of the way its made inside and my truck had sat over night with the trans having been hot when shut down and dripping internally before I pulled the pan. I went off of what the trans shop suggested as a minimum volume he found worked which was 9 1/2 quarts and I had enough flow out of the stand pipe that I knew I was right on the money once it slowed to a dribble and never wasted hardly any oil but it would be totally fine to throw in a full 10 quarts too. I guess personally I wouldn't ruin a perfectly good pan by drilling a hole in it, not with the cost of replacement pans up here or the dorman one anyway with the drain was 500.00 when I priced one out a while back, totally stupid.    I might not have said before but this trans oil type really expands with heat and I think its been said on this forum and the trans shop said the same so I wanted to try and hit the lower temp of the range vs at the top or go shooting above it as that would allow more oil to flow out which wouldn't be ideal. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...