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Differential Plate Screws


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Posted

When I removed the differential plate screws, they were pretty tight almost the whole way coming out, all of them. Then I noticed that the screw threads had some hard residue on them, hard enough that a wire brush couldn't clean them completely, and some had a blue-ish color to it. Did GM put Loctite or equivalent on the screws when they assembled it? Do I need to put something on the screws when I put it back together?

 

It's 2003 Silverado 1500HD. I bought it new, so it's the first time the plate's been removed.

 

Thanks in advance!

Posted

Actually the technical info covering my truck said to replace them once they were removed. I did for the heck of it and yes the new ones had a hard type thread locker on them. Next time I'll clean them up with a wire wheel on a bench grinder and use some liquid thread locker.

Posted

Actually the technical info covering my truck said to replace them once they were removed. I did for the heck of it and yes the new ones had a hard type thread locker on them. Next time I'll clean them up with a wire wheel on a bench grinder and use some liquid thread locker.

^^^^^ This

Posted

OK... that explains that. Well, I tried cleaning them with my Dremel and I could NOT get it all off, and the bolts still get a little tight after a few threads of screwing them back in the hole. I can see why GM recommends replacing the screws. I will call the dealership tomorrow and see if they have the bolts... I hope they're not that expensive.

 

Thanks for you your help!

Posted

I think you're going to find that GM is awfully proud of their fasteners.....using a dremel to clean the threads could pose some challenges for sure. You need a stiffer wire brush, thus the reason I suggested a wire wheel on a bench grinder. You might even try to soak them in some sort of chemical to soften up the material first.

Posted

air compressor and air tools takes care of any stiff bolts goin in .....just sayin,,,,lol

Spoken like a real GM tech....lol

Posted

Spoken like a real GM tech....lol

ty john, i do not piss around ,,flat rate is a bitch ,,,,,good and bad ,,,,im an air whore and thats fine ,,,,i work smarter not harder lol

Posted

ty john, i do not piss around ,,flat rate is a bitch ,,,,,good and bad ,,,,im an air whore and thats fine ,,,,i work smarter not harder lol

 

I never said it wouldn't work....lol

Posted

ty john, i do not piss around ,,flat rate is a bitch ,,,,,good and bad ,,,,im an air whore and thats fine ,,,,i work smarter not harder lol

I agree and endorse this. Never replce the bolts unless you strip or break one. And I have yet in my life put anything on them and never had one come loose or fall out lol

Posted

I agree and endorse this. Never replce the bolts unless you strip or break one. And I have yet in my life put anything on them and never had one come loose or fall out lol

 

You keep at it long enough and you'll accomplish those feats.....lol. Sometimes following a manual can be a good thing when you only do this for yourself. I personally wouldn't put an air tool on something that only requires 30 lb ft of torque, but that's my call. :cheers:

Posted

well john ,that comes down to knowing what the air tool is capable of and knowing when to many "diga digas " is enough lol

Posted

You all made some excellent points and suggestions that I didn't think of. I am definitely going to try soaking the bolts in some kind of solvent and cleaning out the holes with an air gun best I can and just re-use the bolts. I only wonder if I had a GM dealership do my differential, would they have went "by the book" and replaced those bolts with brand new ones? I am guessing they would NOT, but I could be wrong...

 

I appreciate you all for your advice! Oftentimes just hearing what other folks are doing or "would" do in certain situations helps a lot... especially for a novice DIY'er like myself.


Thank You!

George

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