Jump to content

2004 Express RAP problem

DFBonnett

Recommended Posts

DFBonnett Enthusiast

DFBonnett

Posted
Posted

Sometimes, but not all, opening the door after turning off the ignition shuts down the RAP module as it should. Occasionally it does not and I have to open and close the door multiple times. If I get out and open and close any other door the RAP turns off. This situation is particularly noticeable in cold weather. Am I correct in assuming there is a switch inside the drivers door that has become sluggish? I'm hoping to confirm my suspicion before I take the door apart. Any guidance would be most appreciated.

oldscsc Enthusiast

oldscsc

Posted
Posted

Yes, there is a door ajar switch.

 

-- Turn the dome light switch so that the dome light comes on when the door opens. When your RAP doesn't go off when you open the door, is the dome light off or on? If the door switch is at fault, the dome light will fail to illuminate at the same time the RAP fails to turn itself off. Once you open and close the door until the RAP goes off, the dome light should illuminate.

 

The BCM controls all the functions related to having the door open / closed. One of its determining factors of when to operate these outputs (RAP, dome light, chime etc.) is based on the door ajar switch. By checking the functions of these other BCM outputs, it is possible to check the operation of the door switch without any electrical testing.

 

If you find that the switch is indeed faulty, some people have had luck with lubricating and reinstalling the switch. Your only option besides that is replacement of the faulty part.

DFBonnett Enthusiast

DFBonnett

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for the excellent and cogent response. Naturally, the problem refuses to recur just now so I'll have to wait until it does to apply the diagnostic and repair method you outlined. According to the shop manual, it appears that the door ajar switch is part of the latch mechanism, not an inexpensive part, so I'm hoping that hosing out the switch with contact cleaner will get it done.

Again, thank you. I'll post back when I've proceeded further.

  • 1 month later...
DFBonnett Enthusiast

DFBonnett

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The plot thickens.... At first I thought the switch might be sluggish due to cold weather when everything worked fine when the weather warmed up. Today it's very warm and BOTH front doors are failing to turn off the RAP. The rear door and the side sliding door both DO turn it off. Any ideas?

DFBonnett Enthusiast

DFBonnett

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This problem is really intermittent so I'm just going to live with it until I run out of doors to open and close.

DFBonnett Enthusiast

DFBonnett

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When your RAP doesn't go off when you open the door, is the dome light off or on? If the door switch is at fault, the dome light will fail to illuminate at the same time the RAP fails to turn itself off.

 

It got fussy again today so I had a good chance to check it out. When opening either front door with ignition off and key out, the dome light comes on but the radio does not go off. It does go off in 10 minutes on its own with no further intervention. I tested this four times with identical results. When this happens does it indicate that everything is now off? This does not apply to the side and rear doors. Opening them shuts down the RAP normally.

 

oldscsc Enthusiast

oldscsc

Posted
Posted

 

 

When your RAP doesn't go off when you open the door, is the dome light off or on? If the door switch is at fault, the dome light will fail to illuminate at the same time the RAP fails to turn itself off.

 

It got fussy again today so I had a good chance to check it out. When opening either front door with ignition off and key out, the dome light comes on but the radio does not go off. It does go off in 10 minutes on its own with no further intervention. I tested this four times with identical results. When this happens does it indicate that everything is now off? This does not apply to the side and rear doors. Opening them shuts down the RAP normally.

 

Yes, when the RAP turns itself off after 10 minutes, the system is shut down.

 

When checking for the dome light's presence, beware that the dome light on many GM's comes on when the key is removed from the ignition switch.

 

If the dome lights were off, you opened a front door, and the dome lights illuminated yet the RAP was still active, your issue isn't with a door switch.

 

I would have to look at a wiring diagram to continue with diagnosis as I don't know off the top of my head how the system is wired or what all of its triggers are.

  • 1 month later...
DFBonnett Enthusiast

DFBonnett

Posted
  • Author
Posted

"If the door switch is at fault, the dome light will fail to illuminate at the same time the RAP fails to turn itself off."

 

This^ is the case. When the RAP fails to turn off, the dome light also fails to illuminate.

 

It seems that it is now operating more or less intermittently. Sometimes the RAP shuts off immediately upon opening the door, sometimes a few seconds later, sometimes not at all until the 10 minute cycle occurs or the side or rear door is opened. This seems consistent with a sticky switch on the driver's door.

 

Thanks for all your help on this. It is much appreciated. Since there is no danger of this killing the battery and leaving me stuck, I'm going to let this sleeping dog lie unless I am forced to remove the door panel for something more serious. Hopefully that won't happen in the next nine months before I retire completely and the van moves along to its next owner. Again thank you.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • Brendan C
      2026 6.6 L5P oil cooler leaking oil at 4,000 miles

      By Brendan C · Posted

      New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • Vu1can
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By Vu1can · Posted

      So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • CNH-320
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By CNH-320 · Posted

      Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • 2022LtTbZ71
      Service 4wd, ESC light, traction control light on, Service charging system (vehicle may stall)

      By 2022LtTbZ71 · Posted

      That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...