Jump to content

Replacing Oil Cooler Lines


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone replaced the oil cooler lines on a 95 Blazer or a year close to that?  The leaking lines are the one from the engine block to the remote oil filter, not sure if the other one is leaking or not.  Heard the parts are only 60 bucks or so, so that part shouldn't be too bad...but how hard are they to change out and are any special tools required?

 

TIA.

 

Joe

Posted
I don't know about a 95, but the lines on my 99 were alot more.  I can't remember the price now for just the parts, but I had it done and parts and labor combined were over $300.
Posted
I did the same lines on my 95 Sonoma. You can ge to the mounting bolt from the front with a 3 foot extension. I also had to undo the left motor mount, tweak the up so that my hand would fit to start the mounting bolt. Give yourself at least an hour!
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I bought a 99 BlaZeR2 last October. One of the first mods I did was switching to Mobil 1 5w30. The oil leaks started soon afterwards from around the oil cooler lines. After replacing both lines all has been fine since. I'm told if there's a weekness that switching to synth will find it.

 

Paul

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
I just had work done to mine for a minor leak in this area, but they didn't change the lines.  They replaced the gasket seal kit for the Oil Cooler Adapter.  It's the seal right from the block to the lines.
Posted
Yikes!!!! $362 for replacing both lines????? I called my dealer today to get an estimate on replacing my oil cooler lines on my 00' Blazer. He told me $102 labor and $151 for both oil lines. Well under $300. Shop labor rate is $68 per hr.
Posted
Add up another reason why living in Lake County IL isnt the greatest.  High labor rates at dealerships!!  Parts $157.45, labor was $181.65.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
    • 3.59 Kroger’s in Montgomery Tx. 20 cents higher than most around here. Very unusual. Saturday they were 3.49. 
    • Starting at 17 running parts for my father’s construction business to haul our equipment. Eventually doing shows, sales and training after purchase. I drove a minimum of 50K miles a year. Half hauling something. After retiring 30K miles a year to the last 2 years 15K miles a year. 2/3rds highway driving. The major contribution to fatigue for me is from anticipation and awareness. I just don’t relax. Too many idiots on the road. There’s two kinds. The group that never leave the left lane tied together afraid to let anyone in doing 80. They’re mostly on weekends. Then the left lane sleepers usually next to a tractor trailer not advancing. Eventually the tractor trailer will drift over the sleeper will wake up. The train moves and the tailgaters who are usually mad as hell. You definitely don’t want to mix with them. The tail wagging bumper puller’s with under powered trucks are holding the tractor trailer up. That bunch are dangerous. I usually pace ahead all that. Unless there’s a gap when I can chill and let the speeders pass. I tried all different types of driving. I stay to the right except to pass, it’s the law that’s getting in forced more now because of road rage. I was so happy when my wife didn’t want to do the camping life. I had enough of pulling for work. The family has a bus and fifth wheel. I haven’t driven either one since retiring. No thanks. 
    • Yesterday a suggested youtube video thumbnail caught my attention so I watched through it and it was a bunch of short clips someone gathered together of people pulling trailers, a lot of them were bumper pull holiday trailers and a pickup or suv pulling it. a few fifth wheels as well, some motorhome crashes also. The tail wagging the dog theme was quite evident in numerous self inflicted accidents that took out vehicles around them sometimes in the process as the unit finally swung around and flipped over in the middle of the highway. Or the other classic which literally could be called "I forgot the trailer was back there" in passing another vehicle on a multi lane one way freeway and then cutting back in line before the back of the rv trailer had passed the front of the passed vehicle and often in front of a tractor trailer and that never ended well. Or the wide kick out swing of the rear of a long travel trailer as they have so much overhang behind the axles and the trailer smashes into the side of vehicles in the next lane over ( typically sharp turns in city driving ). It makes one leery for good reason to be near an RV trailer after watching a video like that and be it on the highway, in town, or at a gas station where that rear end comes swinging around due to the fuel station being so cramped and not intended for larger trailers. I wonder how many officers have heard those words though "I forgot it was back there" as they investigate the accident LOL. 
    • $5.10 for regular at the Kroger   It's been 6 months... is this the "new normal" ?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...