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2002 silverado engine removal

flattop

By flattop
in Ask A GM Technician

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flattop Enthusiast

flattop

Posted
Posted

Hello folks,

 

I have been tasked with changing the blown 5.3 in my Dads 2002 Silverado 4X4 extended cab.(202,000 miles and it just was started from winer storage then BOOM). Here is the issue, it appears to have thrown a rod and only has about a 300 degree rotation. I was only able to remove two of the three tork converter bolts.

 

My question is has anyone successfully removed a 5.3 with the tork converter still bolted to the flex plate? I know it will be messy, but I really have no other options. I just wanted to know if there would be any clearance issues as the engine will need to be pulled forward an additional 6-8 inches to totally disengage the tork converter from the transmission main shaft.

 

Thanks,

 

Flattop

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

you can try ,rad has to go of course ,raise engine and support tranny at the same time and wiggle forward very gently ,watch engine to tranny angles VERY carefully

 

the word you're looking for is "torque"

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

Another option is to pull engine with trans still attached. You will need to pull rad, condenser, trans cooler, rad support, grille, and likely bumper.

 

Does the engine not have a removable cover from the front of the trans case, that covers from the crank down? You would only need about half turn to get all the bolts out.

 

Pulling the engine with the convertor still attached will damage the front seal on transmission pump, and if you are not careful with the angle of the engine to transmission you will damage the convertor.

 

Another option is to raise the engine up, pull the oil pan, and remove the part that is stopping crank from turning. You would only need to get the part out of the way momentarily.

flattop Enthusiast

flattop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replys, I will take a look for the removable bottom half of the bellhousing and see if that helps.

flattop Enthusiast

flattop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UPDATE:

 

I removed the passenger side head and found the problem. Piston #6 had a snapped connecting rod! There was water in the cylinder and in the head above the intake valve. So I drilled a small hole in the top of the piston, ran a self tapping bolt into it and then pulled the piston out. With a small parts grabber I took the broken parts of piston out. (From # 5 piston I suspect) Then with a long screwdriver holding the broken rod away from the block, I was able to turn the crank so I could get the last flex plate bolt out of the converter!

 

 

This truck was stored near watertown NY from November to May and I am guessing the anti freeze was not up to the -45 that they had this winter. it looks like the cylinder was filled with coolant, so when it started the cylinder just grenaded. The dex-cool was probably the original 12 year old coolant and -45 cracked the head? Anyone have another guess?

 

Anyway this will allow me to get this 5.3 out and get a replacement.

 

 

 

 

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