Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
Posted

My early model 2015 Yukon didn't have it but the plug is there so I installed one. My connection has no power. What fuse is it? Left or right fuse panel? Does this need to be programmed in the system to work? Thanks 

  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 1/1/2020 at 8:41 PM, YukonJohn said:

My early model 2015 Yukon didn't have it but the plug is there so I installed one. My connection has no power. What fuse is it? Left or right fuse panel? Does this need to be programmed in the system to work? Thanks 

Did you ever figure this out? I’m having the same issue. 

Posted

I have the same problem. Bought the new charge unit and plugged it in but no power.  Ended up making my own using a wireless charger off amazon, tearing out the guts, and putting it inside the shell of the old one.  Had to cut part of the shell to allow for charging through my case, but it works.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

The original charger is a gen 1 charger single coil(2016).Dealership replaced with Gen 2, 3 coil, works perfect. Now 7 months later it failed. Kinda. Keeps blowing fuses F8 in drivers endcap panel. Technical Service bulletin says known issue with wires going thru console chaffing and causing short. Yep, dealer took the 4 screws off and sure enough, shorted wires. Another wonderful design fail by Gm. They replaced wire harness and now works fine. Waiting till it wears again and have shorting issue again as they DIDN'T re-engineer replacement wires with thicker wires or a better insulation or anything. Just same ole crap. Luckily I have Diamond Chevrolet extended warranty, NO deductible, till 100,000 miles 96 months. I wouldn't EVER own another Chevrolet without. This has been the most problematic Chevy I've ever had!!!!!. May be my last after owning 17 Chevrolet. Still have my '55 Chevrolet and probably the best one.

Chevrolet, get your crap together. Made Chevrolet gave me that warranty after having this truck in shop for two weeks of the first month of ownership!

I couldn't list all the problems I've had with Tahoe. As of today it is a 2016 Tahoe LTZ 4WD Fully loaded with 58618 miles. 

Posted
On 5/12/2020 at 3:13 PM, mikemcclain8 said:

I have the same problem. Bought the new charge unit and plugged it in but no power.  Ended up making my own using a wireless charger off amazon, tearing out the guts, and putting it inside the shell of the old one.  Had to cut part of the shell to allow for charging through my case, but it works.

It was the 12" wire harness that the new module plugged into. Its noted for shorting due to wires breaking in the hinge area of the console. But sounds like u fixed that problem

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Most smartphone companies have implemented wireless charging over the last few years, and while Apple may be a late-starter in adopting wireless charging, it's now going all out to push for a cordless world. Despite various rumors circulating around the iPhone 12, it will almost certainly be capable of wireless charging.Best android chargers online.

Wireless charging appears so effortless that more and more consumers are eager to try it and use it in their daily life.

However, the reality is not always as smooth as expected, and after setting your iPhone down to wireless charge, you may return to find it isn't charging after all. So, why is it that your iPhone is not working on your wireless charger.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 477 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...