Jump to content

Leveling kit 2013 Silverado


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2013 Silverado Z71 black extended cab. I put a moto fab 2" leveling kit on the top of the strut. I want to go to a 2.5, I have looked at the rough country and the ccm off-road kit. I like the aggressive look with the 2.5" level kits but I don't want the back higher than the front any suggestions? I kinda like the front a little higher than the back to give it a little stance by not much

Posted

That looks really good but I do want to go up to a 2.5" just want to make sure the rear is never higher than the back no matter what kit I get

Posted

On my 2013 I have a 2" level and my rear is right at 1" taller than the front. My guess is that with a 2.5" you will be really close to dead flat or around a half inch. Measure at the center of all four wheel wells to the ground and see what the difference is.

Posted

Did you remove your stock blocks on the back and it still is a inch higher in the back?

Posted

I did not remove rear blocks, only added the front 2" bottom strut spacers. My truck was a little under 3" higher in the rear than in the front prior to installing the leveling kit.

Posted

Do you know anyone that has a 07-13 with a 2.5" from top gunz or rough country? I want to know if it levels it out or will the rear be higher still. I want it level or the front a little higher I called rough country and they told me the rear would be higher with there 2.5" kit but that makes no sense to me

Posted

It makes sense to me. If I put a 2.5" level on my truck the rear would still be higher than the front, because typically these trucks have between 2.5" and 3" of rake from the factory. You have a couple options:

 

3" level off Ebay - your front end may last 5,000 miles before it is toast and it will ride like absolute junk. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Silverado-3-Front-Leveling-lift-kit-2007-2014-GMC-Sierra-GM-1500-/321687260579?fits=Year%3A2013%7CModel%3ASilverado+1500&hash=item4ae60e0da3:g:YnkAAOSwpDdU4ngF&vxp=mtr

2.5" level and remove the rear block - refer again to link in post #2

Posted

What's your opinion on 2.5" inch spacer in front and leaving the 1.5" blocks in the back? I ordered a 2.5" spacer today

  • 3 months later...
Posted

After installing one of these Rough Country 2"level kits at the bottom of the strut is a wheel alignment a must do right away or does it really change the alignment where you have to worry about it?

Posted

With 2.5" in the front, go ahead and start budgeting for ball joint replacement; it's not a matter of if but when. Keep an eye on your CV boots as well.

 

The back is supposed to higher than the front so the truck won't be nose high when you actually use it like a truck.

Posted

What about with the 2" like I mentioned in my post?

Posted

What about with the 2" like I mentioned in my post?

Probably right on the edge. Anecdotal evidence here on the forum seems to indicate that the ball joints just won't hold up to a 2.5" level.

 

I've long since outgrown lifting and big tires, but if I did install one, I personally wouldn't go past 1.5"

 

A true lift kit relocates and lowers the front diff, steering, and the control arm mounting points to keep the factory suspension, halfshaft, and steering geometry intact. A leveling kit just pushes the factory configuration down putting these parts into angles that they were not designed to handle long-term; that's why leveling kits are so affordable.

 

As I grew older, looks took a back seat to ride quality, fuel mileage, and truck durability. I'm not criticizing folks that do this, it's just not my cup of tea anymore.

 

EDIT TO ADD: anytime you lift or level a truck, you'll need a front wheel alignment. At the very least a level will result in excess toe-in and excess negative camber wouldn't surprise me either.

Posted

I've ran quite a few 2.5" levelin kits with no issues, cranked keys, spacers, however you achieve it. Sure they're angled a lil more but the truck won't instantly explode and it may ride a tad harsh compared to stock due to the arm bein closer to the droop stop, but it won't run your ball joints into the ground in 2k miles. A 2.5" kit will put you right around height level with the rear dependin on cab setup. Generally the single cabs have much more rake from factory than crew cabs or extended cabs. If the angle worries you that much, rough country makes control arms specifically for the angle and they come with moog ball joints. I think they're like 220$ for the set. Takes 30 minutes to install maybe, and if you do them separate from the level you'll need another alignment after. So if you want them, do them at the same time. I have a eBay moto fab 2.5" kit on my 2014 with no problems, ride pretty good, and I'm still Gettin 17-18 mpg average with a 6.2 on 33" tires. The Levelin kit itself won't tear your truck up. it may knock your mpg down .5 from factory until you get wheels and tires or just tires. If the 2.5" kit doesn't get the front where you want it, put 1" blocks out back and you'll get the lil bit of lean you want. Nothin drastic, but noticeable.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...