Jump to content

Are these any good?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking into blacking out my front end with black bumpers, grille and headlights. I came across these from a quick google search. Looks like they come with HID's for a price of 324.99

Anybody have any input? They also offer just the projectors with no HID's for 254.99. Would it be better to just get the headlights and buy HID's elsewhere? Any help is appreciated.

 

 

Thanks!

 

Link

Posted

I'm looking into blacking out my front end with black bumpers, grille and headlights. I came across these from a quick google search. Looks like they come with HID's for a price of 324.99

Anybody have any input? They also offer just the projectors with no HID's for 254.99. Would it be better to just get the headlights and buy HID's elsewhere? Any help is appreciated.

 

 

Thanks!

 

Link

 

I would buy the HID's elsewhere.

 

Theses are the ones I've been using for about a year with no problems. Didn't need a relay or anything else

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B5I1YPU/ref=twister_B00S600DBM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Posted

I'm looking into blacking out my front end with black bumpers, grille and headlights. I came across these from a quick google search. Looks like they come with HID's for a price of 324.99

Anybody have any input? They also offer just the projectors with no HID's for 254.99. Would it be better to just get the headlights and buy HID's elsewhere? Any help is appreciated.

 

 

Thanks!

 

Link

 

I looked into these and have only heard bad stuff about the cheapo-depot. I believe they use H1 bulbs and their projector is of terrible quality...

 

Go to a junkyard and get some LTZ headlights for the same price. Or if you can find a set of Eagle Eyes.

Posted

 

I would buy the HID's elsewhere.

 

Theses are the ones I've been using for about a year with no problems. Didn't need a relay or anything else

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B5I1YPU/ref=twister_B00S600DBM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

What projectors do you have?

 

 

I looked into these and have only heard bad stuff about the cheapo-depot. I believe they use H1 bulbs and their projector is of terrible quality...

 

Go to a junkyard and get some LTZ headlights for the same price. Or if you can find a set of Eagle Eyes.

 

Damn, that kinda sucks to hear. They are a great price but not worth it if they suck. What makes the projectors suck? I that topic you posted in about the eagle eyes but weren't they discontinued?

Posted

 

What projectors do you have?

 

 

Damn, that kinda sucks to hear. They are a great price but not worth it if they suck. What makes the projectors suck? I that topic you posted in about the eagle eyes but weren't they discontinued?

 

Just the stock GMC projectors

Posted

 

What projectors do you have?

 

 

Damn, that kinda sucks to hear. They are a great price but not worth it if they suck. What makes the projectors suck? I that topic you posted in about the eagle eyes but weren't they discontinued?

 

Yes they were discontinued, but some headlight shops could still have some pairs they want to get rid of.

 

Using cheap bulbs is the worst part...H1 is more of a foglight scatter effect. But using a cheap projector doesn't help.

Posted

 

Yes they were discontinued, but some headlight shops could still have some pairs they want to get rid of.

 

Using cheap bulbs is the worst part...H1 is more of a foglight scatter effect. But using a cheap projector doesn't help.

 

Got it, any recommendations if I can't find eagle eyes? I don't really like the Anzo's, the LED part is too fancy for me

Posted

 

Got it, any recommendations if I can't find eagle eyes? I don't really like the Anzo's, the LED part is too fancy for me

 

Yeah I'd get the actual LTZ Projectors if you can...they'll hold up longer too. Do you have any junk yards etc near you?

Posted

 

Yeah I'd get the actual LTZ Projectors if you can...they'll hold up longer too. Do you have any junk yards etc near you?

 

Not too sure, Fort Lauderdale is a big city so I'm sure there are junkyards somewhere. But even then I feel like there's a small chance there's a 2014/2015 LTZ in there. Plus I really like the look of the blacked out headlights :throwup:

Posted

 

Not too sure, Fort Lauderdale is a big city so I'm sure there are junkyards somewhere. But even then I feel like there's a small chance there's a 2014/2015 LTZ in there. Plus I really like the look of the blacked out headlights :throwup:

 

Lots of 14-15 silverados have been wrecked now...I'd say you'd have a pretty good shot actually. I had a buddy who called 2 and got both of his for $300 total.

 

You're going to have to vinyl wrap the headlight trim - which the headlight trims are actually really easy (they can actually pop off too if you feel like doing it yourself/painting it), I was charged $50 for it.

Posted

 

Lots of 14-15 silverados have been wrecked now...I'd say you'd have a pretty good shot actually. I had a buddy who called 2 and got both of his for $300 total.

 

You're going to have to vinyl wrap the headlight trim - which the headlight trims are actually really easy (they can actually pop off too if you feel like doing it yourself/painting it), I was charged $50 for it.

 

Oh cool, I will look into it. Thanks!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 722 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...