Jump to content

Alignment Issue after Lift


Recommended Posts

Posted

Got to installing my lift over the weekend and went ahead and got the alignment done today. You can review the before and after printout sheet (ignore the spilled water). Unfortunately, I still have pull to the left and he told me it is because of the thrust angle of the rear. He does a lot of track cars and not a lot of trucks so he said it could be a couple things I don't agree with.

My questions are:

 

1) I have a blown passenger side rear shock, could this be causing it?

 

2) If not, could this have happened when i installed the lift blocks?

 

3) How can I fix this? I am guessing I am going to have to eyeball it and then go back and have the alignment checked but I have always had cars with Independent suspension so this is a first. Any way to measure this for self adjustment?

post-134927-0-54443200-1469045562_thumb.jpg

post-134927-0-20349800-1469045566_thumb.jpg

post-134927-0-54443200-1469045562_thumb.jpg

post-134927-0-20349800-1469045566_thumb.jpg

post-134927-0-54443200-1469045562_thumb.jpg

post-134927-0-20349800-1469045566_thumb.jpg

post-134927-0-54443200-1469045562_thumb.jpg

post-134927-0-20349800-1469045566_thumb.jpg

Posted

4 Wheel Parts told me that once the truck is lifted you can't use the stock factory alignment settings. I don't know what those settings are or what size lift you have.

 

The thrust angle is an imaginary line drawn perpendicular to the rear axle's centerline. It compares the direction that the rear axle is aimed with the centerline of the vehicle. It also confirms if the rear axle is parallel to its front axle and that the wheelbase on both sides of the vehicle is the same.

Tire Tech Information - Alignment

 

I don't see how a bad shock can change the thrust angle. I will say having my truck aligned at 4 Wheel Parts made a big difference on my truck. It didn't pull to either side but it was really wearing the tires on the inside from the day I bought it and I purchased it new with a Fabtech 6 inch lift. It also eliminated the tire rub on the drivers side at full lock to the left.

Posted

Right rear just has a tremendous amount of negative toe. I am going to measure the distance to the lift blocks to see if I can get any measurements that can tell me what is going on. Maybe its just a matter of loosening the u bolts and trying to shift the axle a bit (as much as the alignment pins allow) but regardless, it will still be excessive for both sides.

 

If I would have gotten hit there, I think I would feel some vibration (more than the famous regular chevy shake). I am gonna be really upset if this isn't fixable and I have to purchase a) a new axle, b) parts for the axle or c) fight with the dealer to try and get it done under warranty as a defective axle. Never had my truck aligned before but it has always pulled a bit to the left, much more noticeable now with the big tires.

Posted

Got it up on the lift this weekend and took some measurements. Looks like the axle is perfectly straight. Measured from the same spot on both sides to the same fixed points that are uniform on each side of the truck. Loosened the u bolts, took some axle straps and tried to twist the axle slightly. Still getting some pull but not as much. It will be getting back on the alignment machine this week to check. Really doesn't make any sense to me. If something was bent, I should be able to feel it or at least see it.

Posted

Why is the right front caster still off? Camber and caster are pull forces. Cross camber and cross caster should be at 0.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Saw on other forum someone had lift blocks that had the alignment pins off. Called rough country and they said they highly doubt thats the cause. Going to see where my alignment is since we used the strap to twist the axle some and then take them out, measure them, reinstall stock blocks and then check alignment again. That should either confirm or eliminate the possibility that it's the lift blocks causing it. Shocks are also going in this weekend

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Just an update:

 

Last weekend I went and installed: ProComp ProRunner SS struts/shocks on the front and rear which removed my leveling kit. I also changed out the rear lift block to Rough Country's 5 3/4" Anti-Wrap Blocks.

 

Just got my truck back from getting the alignment and the rear axle is now dead-on. Thrust angle is 0.02 on both ends. So I know for a fact that it was either the lift blocks OR the shocks causing it. (I had 1 rear shock completely gone and the other right on the fence of going). Could the rear shock extension been contributing as well? Could the dramatic difference between the front and rear lift have caused it? Cannot be sure of either but I do know that my issue is now fixed. Figured I would update everyone in case someone experiences this.

 

Truck now drives like a dream. Very happy with it.

Posted

I guarantee that a rear shock or shocks will not affect the thrust angle. That thrust angle is dependent upon the positioning of the rear axle on the leaf springs. The hole in the axle leaf pad is at least an 1/8 of an inch larger than the block pin or leaf pack pin.

 

Thats why sometimes you see trucks ahead of you look as though they are driving at an angle. Thrust angle is out. Anything more than .04 is too much.

 

Heres an explanation I found on another site.

 

The front wheels aim or steer the vehicle. The rear wheels control tracking. This tracking action relates to the thrust angle (3). The thrust angle is the path that the rear wheels take. Ideally, the thrust angle is geometrically aligned with the body centerline (2).

In the illustration, toe-in is shown on the left rear wheel, moving the thrust line (1) off center. The resulting deviation from the centerline is the thrust angle.

If the thrust angle is not set properly the vehicle may "dog track", the steering wheel may not be centered or it could be perceived as a bent axle. Thrust angle can be checked during a wheel alignment.

Positive thrust angle means the thrust line is pointing to the right hand side (RHS) of the vehicle.

Negative thrust angle means the thrust line is pointing to the left hand side (LHS) of the vehicle.

If the thrust angle is out of specification, moving the axle to body relationship will change the thrust angle reading.

If the vehicle is out in the Positive (+) direction-moving the RHS forward and/or LHS rearward will move the thrust angle towards zero degrees.

If the vehicle is out in the Negative (-) direction-moving the RHS rearward and/or LHS forward will move the thrust angle towards zero degrees.

 

 

Glad you got yours back together and zeroed in.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,536 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...