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How do you drop the transmission pan


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Posted

I could not get to one bolt on the transmission pan of my 2000 silverado 5.3 Z71 (36K miles). The transmission shift cable was in the way and I'm reluctant to take the cable apart. Any suggestions? My flex socket has no room to maneuver in there. I also was unsuccesful in taking the drain plug off. The wrench was slipping on the bolt. Any suggestions on how to get to that last bolt on the pan? :thumbs:

Posted

When I did mine, I opted to remove the selector switch bracket. 2 torx screws accessable from the top of the tranny.

 

:thumbs:

Posted

I just typed this out on PUTC so I'll just cut and paste it here.

 

OK, I've done a few transmission fluid changes in my time and I have never ever seen one where you had to remove the shift cable, so I went under my '03 to take a look at it.

 

Unfortunately, after I looked at it, there's no way around it, the cable must be moved. You need a T-40 Torx socket and I was able to get it on the fastener by lying on a creeper on the driver side of the truck and reaching over the front driveshaft. This part is not from me, I got it off a post from a user on fullsizechevy.com, but when he did his he just removed the back T-40 bolt, the one towards the rear of the transmission, and he just swiveled the bracket over so that the pan would clear. It looks like it would work and at least would save you the trouble of replacing 2 hard-to-get bolts insted of one.

 

If you really get desperate, I think if you remove the front driveshaft, it will give you a whole lot more room, but then you're gonna have to top off the fluid in the transfer case that will spill out.

 

GOOD LUCK! I only have 550 miles on mine so I don't have to worry about it for a while.

Posted

If you go to sears they sell torx sockets....they are long enough with a short extension to to get to all of the torx bolts for the shift linkage....I was going to do my tranny today and I ran into the same problem as the first post with the drain plug. It is so tight I had a ratchet with a cheater and it just rounded the head off....so I went to sears, they sell those things made by craftsman to get off bolts that are stripped. Finally I put that on and had to get the old trusty impact on it to break it loose. So I couldnt even do the service cause chevy is closed today and i need a new bolt. The bolt could be a little deeper so you have more head to grip onto or maybe the guy putting it on from the factory could take it easier. :thumbs:

Posted

2001 HD, Pewter Pro Tec and titanium 10K: I'll also cut most of this from the pick up board (or most of it). Pewter thanks for posting twice! I went to Sears before I saw your replies and landed up getting a 13mm "crows foot" and a short 13mm box wrench. When I came back I checked the pan bolts and I think I can barely maneuver the short wrench in there to remove the bolt. The hint about the Torx I missed, so I will have to go back and get the T-40 torx socket (Sears had already closed) this week. The other thing I bought was a bolt remover (titanium 10K I did the same thing you did!) to take the transmission bolt off...I will have to order another one from the dealer and work on the transmission filter job next weekend. The torx socket should do the trick with the bracket. There were also some hints given about bending the bracket a little bit and disconnecting the cable. I asked for more info on those approaches. Thanks again. Glad to hear I was not the only one with this problem. I felt around the bracket with my hand and figured it was a torx or a hex but could not figure the size. I have a set of torx screwdrivers but no sockets. Another thing I discovered was that the Craftsman tools cost more than the Husky, however the Husky are made in Taiwan...Well I'll let you gents know what happens next week when I tackle this project again. One thing I did get done was replace the cabin air filters and changed oil and oil filter so the weekend was not a total loss : :thumbs:

Posted

you can disconnect the linkage rather than removing the bracket. If you disconnect the dront drive shaft, but leave the slip yoke in the transfer case, no fluid will leak out, and you'll have a lot more room to work. Be sure to tape up the ujoint tho, you don't want to lose any needle bearings. my problem was that I have the deep pan, which also necessitated unbolting my y-pipe in order to remove the pan.

Posted

Well I just finished doing my trans service not too bad. Hey greek I dont have four wheel drive so maybe its a little different for yours...the dealer should have the bolt in stock down here in florida its like 8.98 for the bolt plus tax. Also just removing the bracket for the shift linkage and everything will move out of the way that is how I did it. The other thing I had a little prob with was getting the o-ring out for the filter. I had to end up leaving the old one in there. Good luck!!!!!!!!!! :)

Posted

titanium do you have the part number for the bolt? Thanks

Posted

titanium10k: Thanks. My wife picked up a transmission drain plug today (I'm outa town). It was not expensive at all.

There should not be that much difference with the 4x4. The front axle and transfer case would be different. The transmission and the cable should be the same. I still have to pick up that Torx socket before I tackle the job next weekend. Had my wife pick up an extra oil pan drain bolt and rear and front axle plugs. Good to have that stuff around.

Posted

Has anyone put together this procedure either in one complete thread or in the guide section?

 

Can anyone put this together with the tools needed, and sizes and the procedure and how many quarts and type. I've been trying to read all the threads and write this down but this gets confusing.

 

I looked under mine yesterday and I have the deep pan I think. there is a small step in the pan that steps up over the cross pipe. Someone mentioned that you need to drop the cross pipe is this true?

 

And what is the whole procedure? Do you take a bucket of clean fluid and and empty bucket, disconnect the tranny cooler lines and place one in the celan and one in the empty from the tranny and start the truck until the new bucket is empty? Re connect the hoses, then drop the pan, change the filter and top the fluid off?

Posted

Ryan, the part #for the bolt is 24213991...by the way Ryan you have the helm manual dont you????Is it worth the money for it and does it go into detail for maintanence items or just repair items ive been thinking of getting one but was curious what was in it...thanks...... AZ-Z71 I think that most the new trucks have the deep pan and I didnt have to drop the exhaust to get the pan out that is what the step is for so you dont have to.... :)

Posted

Yes i do have the helms manual. Are they worth it? I have used them a few times thusfar. The pictures arent that great, there are a few errors i have run across also.

 

For $120 i think its worth it

Posted

I have the Helms. Got it when I bought the truck Jan 2000.

It helps on some items. It did not on the issue here. It just says drop the pan and does not talek about the interference with the cable. I always think that these manuals are worth it.

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just a little follow up. I also rounded off the drain bolt corners and could not get the bolt off even with the bolt remover socket that I got from Sears. The dealer was even reluctant to take the bolt off. He just recommended dropping the pan. I guess they did that and somehow loosened the bracket.

I could not loosen the bracket with the t-40 torx bit. I was not able to hold down the socket on the bolt. On a similar post someone put a 2x4 above the torx socket to keep it in the bolt head. I was starting to strip the torx head so just gave up.

I'm curious as to how the dealer removed the pan (by removing the bracket?). I should have asked but was in a hurry. It was about $140 including the filter (no flush). I still want to get the drain bolt off the pan. The Sears 15mm bolt removal bit is a little big and I could not find a 14mm. I guess this is a service I will leave to the dealer. :thumbs:

Posted

Is the tranny HOT when you guys are trying to remove the bolt?? Seems like that would make it easier? I am getting close to doing something on my Silverado, since everyone is having trouble dropping the pan, I thought about just removing the drain plug and changing the fluid every 25,000 miles and tackling or getting the dealer to change the filter every other time which would be every 50,000. Not sure what I am going to do yet, with so many people having probs with the drain plug too, I am not sure what to do? Wish it was a 700R4, I can drop the pan and change the filter in my dads '91 K1500 in no time at all!

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