Jump to content

Chugging noise drivers side engine compartment


Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking for some assistance with a chugging noise coming from the drivers side engine compartment in my 1999 Silverado, 4.8ltr. The noise seems to only happen after cold crank and continues until driving down the road for about 5-10 mintues and then goes away. I noticed some hesitation and minimal loss of power in the lower gears. The noise is intensified with acceleration and when revving the engine in park. Chugging is the best noise I can use to describe the noise.

Posted

Could be the bearings in the alternator going out, how old is your alternator?

 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Posted

Could be the bearings in the alternator going out, how old is your alternator?

 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Could also be an exhaust leak at the manifold. If it's only happening when it's cold it could be sealing itself after it warms up. Chugging is a hard sound for me two understand sorry.

 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Posted

Could also be an exhaust leak at the manifold. If it's only happening when it's cold it could be sealing itself after it warms up. Chugging is a hard sound for me two understand sorry.

 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

I found a youtube video of the exhaust manifold leak in a Silverado. Sure enough...same sound and symptoms.

Posted

Cool, glad you got your solution, are you doing the repair yourself?

 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Posted

Going to try and do it myself. Inspected last night and found two bolts connecting the header closest to the firewall missing. Actually, one missing and one with the head of the bolt broke off and the stem in place. I have no idea what I am going to do. Not enough room to tap it out. Any recommendations?

Posted

Going to try and do it myself. Inspected last night and found two bolts connecting the header closest to the firewall missing. Actually, one missing and one with the head of the bolt broke off and the stem in place. I have no idea what I am going to do. Not enough room to tap it out. Any recommendations?

You will most likely have to weld on a nut onto the stud or take it to a shop. You might be able to get some vice grips on there and take it out with those but that will also require heating up the block around the stud. Actually you'll have to do that on both of them to get it out. You don't want to heat up the stud itself you want to heat up the block around the stud. Good luck let me know how it goes.

 

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Posted

The manifold bolts on those engines were notorious for breaking due to the design of the manifolds, and the heads being aluminum and the manifolds being cast iron which both expand and contract at different rates.

Mine has been leaking for a couple of hundred-thousand miles......let them leak is my motto. Sounds kinda like the old school headers.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 718 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
    • Yes, the key seems to be with the half tons that if it has the Z71, then it definitely has the two speed. What got me was that the two speed AND the lower geared towing package option could not be chosen together the last few years unless it was mated up to the 6.2. Want the 3.0 duramax and 3.73 tow gears ... nope, can't get the two speed transfer case ( neighbor son realized that after he had bought his used 3.0 half ton .. where the frick is the low range ? ! ).    I am still unsure which truck series, the half ton or the HD truck that the original poster is referring to for sure other than yes his question is in the HD section of this forum but that doesn't guarantee the question got asked in the right section.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...