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Chugging noise drivers side engine compartment


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Posted

Looking for some assistance with a chugging noise coming from the drivers side engine compartment in my 1999 Silverado, 4.8ltr. The noise seems to only happen after cold crank and continues until driving down the road for about 5-10 mintues and then goes away. I noticed some hesitation and minimal loss of power in the lower gears. The noise is intensified with acceleration and when revving the engine in park. Chugging is the best noise I can use to describe the noise.

Posted

Could be the bearings in the alternator going out, how old is your alternator?

 

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Posted

Could be the bearings in the alternator going out, how old is your alternator?

 

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Could also be an exhaust leak at the manifold. If it's only happening when it's cold it could be sealing itself after it warms up. Chugging is a hard sound for me two understand sorry.

 

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Posted

Could also be an exhaust leak at the manifold. If it's only happening when it's cold it could be sealing itself after it warms up. Chugging is a hard sound for me two understand sorry.

 

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I found a youtube video of the exhaust manifold leak in a Silverado. Sure enough...same sound and symptoms.

Posted

Cool, glad you got your solution, are you doing the repair yourself?

 

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Posted

Going to try and do it myself. Inspected last night and found two bolts connecting the header closest to the firewall missing. Actually, one missing and one with the head of the bolt broke off and the stem in place. I have no idea what I am going to do. Not enough room to tap it out. Any recommendations?

Posted

Going to try and do it myself. Inspected last night and found two bolts connecting the header closest to the firewall missing. Actually, one missing and one with the head of the bolt broke off and the stem in place. I have no idea what I am going to do. Not enough room to tap it out. Any recommendations?

You will most likely have to weld on a nut onto the stud or take it to a shop. You might be able to get some vice grips on there and take it out with those but that will also require heating up the block around the stud. Actually you'll have to do that on both of them to get it out. You don't want to heat up the stud itself you want to heat up the block around the stud. Good luck let me know how it goes.

 

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Posted

The manifold bolts on those engines were notorious for breaking due to the design of the manifolds, and the heads being aluminum and the manifolds being cast iron which both expand and contract at different rates.

Mine has been leaking for a couple of hundred-thousand miles......let them leak is my motto. Sounds kinda like the old school headers.

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