Jump to content

Shake when brake.

Kasbyboy

Recommended Posts

Kasbyboy New Member

Kasbyboy

Posted
Posted

Good evening all. I’m a new member but have been looking through forums all the time. I’ve been working on my own stuff for several years. Auto body tech for years before going into law enforcement.  

But now I’m having an issue with my 2006 Silverado 1500 4x4 and need help. 

About 4 months ago a brake line blew in the rear. After looking into the job I noticed rotted crossmembers and a crack in frame. All the issues were fixed took 4 months. Body painted and also put new rear springs. 

But now I’m getting a shake immediately when brake is applied. When I downed the truck It was operating great. 

I replaced all front braking components and also rear from hardware and drums. 

I rebleed the system no air at all. But the shake/ vibration is still persistent.  

I need help. Any suggestions would be awesome. 

Thank you 

 

  • 1 month later...
jrow8162 Enthusiast

jrow8162

Posted
Posted

Did you get this fixed? Are you losing brake fluid? Check your Brake Booster for fluid. If there is fluid in there replace the MC and Booster and it should correct the issue.. 

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

If you feel vibration in the seat, it is likely a drum that is out of round.  Verify the parking brake is not hanging up causing drum to overheat.  If you can feel the vibration in the steering wheel and/or brake pedal, the front rotors likely have excessive runout.  Both scenarios are assuming it only vibrates when braking. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hdwrguy
      2027 Chevrolet Silverado: Official Discussion

      By Hdwrguy · Posted

      So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...