Jump to content

Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit Cobb Job Install

Coopdeville

Recommended Posts

Coopdeville New Member

Coopdeville

Posted
Posted

I had the dealership install a Rough Country "2 leveling kit on our new 2018 Chevy Silverado LTZ while they had it in for a vibration issue.

When I realized the install was NOT done per the instructions I was p!ssed.

Is it possible to install those leveling blocks below the shock mounts without taking all the joints apart in that area.

LOOKS LIKE THEY PRYED UP ON THE SHOCKS AND GOT IT IN THERE. 

Pry marks all over the control arms and shocks, no indication of any of the original hardware being loosened or removed (which means they didn't disconnect the electric steering).

The new mounting bolts are all inserted from the bottom up with two of the studs GROUND DOWN to the top of the nut. Paint scraped off the shocks like they put channel locks on them.

They know I am aware of this and want to talk about it.

Not sure what to do.

Is it possible for them to install it that way or is it the cobb job it looks like?

Please help!

Coopdeville

 

24v Enthusiast

24v

Posted
Posted

If you paid the dealer to install it they should be able to do it without modifying or damaging any parts or hardware.  I would tell them to replace whatever they damaged, and install the lower bolts correctly.  Often techs working in shops are paid a flat rate.  This means they get the same amount of pay if it takes them 10 minutes, or 2 hours to install your stuff.  If they can find a shortcut they can make more money.  Clearly that is what happened here.  I would at least ask that they replace the bolts, put them in correctly, and touch up the paint on the other parts to prevent future rust issues.  I would also talk to them about some credit or a free oil change for the fact that you had to come back due to their tech being in too much of a hurry.  Be sure to take photos of all the issues so you can reference them later if needed.

tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

Why would you let a dealership install or work on anything????  I don't trust them to be able to change the oil correctly, much less do suspension work.  Also, unless they gave you paperwork stating other wise, if you have a suspension problem in the future while the truck is still under warranty they can deny the claim.  GM has TSB's out there that state this.

'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

Leave it alone, you're fine. The bolts were put in that way because they would have needed to unbolt the front half shaft CV joints to get the bolt in through the top. They have the same clamping force either way they're put in. In fact, I believe the RC instructions say to do it that way, not sure now. Also, you don't need to disconnect the electric steering connectors. No one knows why the instructions say to do that either. The connector's locking tabs break off very easily (ask me and many others how we know). If I were you, I'd be thankful that the tech didn't do any more than he had to; probably would have caused more problems and may cause more if you bring it back too.

24v Enthusiast

24v

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, '17 Sierra said:

Leave it alone, you're fine. The bolts were put in that way because they would have needed to unbolt the front half shaft CV joints to get the bolt in through the top. They have the same clamping force either way they're put in. In fact, I believe the RC instructions say to do it that way, not sure now. Also, you don't need to disconnect the electric steering connectors. No one knows why the instructions say to do that either. The connector's locking tabs break off very easily (ask me and many others how we know). If I were you, I'd be thankful that the tech didn't do any more than he had to; probably would have caused more problems and may cause more if you bring it back too.

You do not have to remove the cv's to put the shock bolts in from the top.  Not sure where that comes from.

'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, 24v said:

You do not have to remove the cv's to put the shock bolts in from the top.  Not sure where that comes from.

The axle is in the way if you don't. That's where that comes from.

24v Enthusiast

24v

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, '17 Sierra said:

The axle is in the way if you don't. That's where that comes from.

I'm pretty confident you don't need to pull the axle out to get those bolts in.  I think when the suspension is drooped all the way down with the upper separated and the shock unbolted, you can get the lower bolts in.

DTB Enthusiast

DTB

Posted
Posted

I got mine installed correctly without removing the cv shaft to drop the lower bolts in. I did have to pop the top ball joint off though. There was some pry bar use involved. No real way around that working on the front suspension. 

Coopdeville New Member

Coopdeville

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They didn't do it per the instructions from what I can see. Rough Country claims this will void their warranty.

There shouldn't be pry marks all over the shocks and A-arms with paint scrapped off.

I'm undecided about what to do. This is the wife's new truck and she says they will never touch it again.

I think we need to approach them about our money back or else we'll call the BBB.

I still wonder how they installed them without following the instructions though.

kit.JPG

  • 2 weeks later...
sledwrencher Enthusiast

sledwrencher

Posted
Posted

I just installed the same kit on my '18 and you do not have to take out CV joints.  I did undo top ball joint and undo sway bar link.  First side 1hr 15min...second side 45min on the garage floor.  And BTW...balljoint would not pop with hammer, I used balljoint fork.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 483 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Coastie05
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Go back to OEM wheels. 
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...