Jump to content

Chronic error code, P0335 + others

baskervi

Recommended Posts

baskervi Enthusiast

baskervi

Posted
Posted

Last spring the Yukon was throwing the P0420 error code for poor catalyst efficiency, so we replaced the catalytic converter last summer. I'll note that the plugs on the driver's side were light grey and looked good, but all plugs on the passenger side were very dark and sooty. I don't believe they were oily, but I did replace the plugs. 

 

- A couple months later, we started experiencing chronic error codes on our 2007 Yukon XL 1500 5.3L. Initially, we were getting (among other codes) P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0340 for the camshaft position sensor - these were always showing up, but there were usually one or two other codes that were with these. I replaced these sensors August of last year with genuine O'Reilly sensors and quickly replace them with genuine GM sensors from the dealer, but both error codes continued to come up frequently, and of course the Stabilitrak lamp would occasionally (sometimes frequently) come on and the truck would go into reduced power mode. We'd have to pull the battery terminal off just to get home. After repeatedly checking continuity of the wires, plus wiggling the wires while checking continuity, I couldn't find any problems in the connections. I rotated the crankshaft and made sure the proper signals were being generated at the sensors. Out of frustration, we ended up taking the truck to the dealership, and they said it was a bad motor mount and claimed they fixed a break in the wiring harness. I looked for a repair job to the wiring but couldn't find anything. I know those wires inside and out by now. The truck's been working fine until April.

 

Beginning last month, we started getting the P0335 error code regularly again, but we've also had a couple other ones pop up: P0420 for the reduced catalyst efficiency and P2119 for the throttle body.Yesterday, the stabilitrak came on 3x with the reduced power mode. Battery terminal came off each time, because my wife was across town, and fortunately she can use a wrench. I decided to take it right into the shop, because we're leaving town shortly and I don't have time to spend on this. The dealership wants to 1) replace the catalytic convert, 2) replace the CKP sensor, and of course 3) replace the throttle body.The dealership was not aware that the catalytic converter was replaced a year ago (with one that has a life time warranty, minus labor), but I know there is deeper problem that is being missed. We'd like to keep the truck, but I'm running out of ideas as to how what I can even try, and obviously the dealership isn't sure. 

 

Does anyone have an idea of what might be going on? I presume there is a serious problem with the engine with the catalytic converter being fouled in a year, so is this correct? Besides the typical button logos coming off, the cracked dash, and super cheap plastic throughout, it's still in pretty good shape. And it's paid off. Thanks

 

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Did you think to check the downstream O2 sensor? Was a crank relearn ever performed?

baskervi Enthusiast

baskervi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the quick response. I forgot to mention we replaced front and rear O2 sensors on the passenger side only just before the catalytic converter was replaced.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Mileage on vehicle? Mileage between cat change and now? Just curious. What were these "other" codes?

baskervi Enthusiast

baskervi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

218,000 miles on the truck currently. Sorry, but I don't recall the other codes - I just saw the CMP and CKP so often. Since you asked the question, I do believe the error code for the throttle body occasionally popped up. Mileage between cat change in now would be around 16-18,000 miles.

 

 

baskervi Enthusiast

baskervi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Maybe some more information that may be useful. I've noticed on occasion that the battery charging meter will show the system is discharging. We got the P0335 CKP sensor message with Stabilitrak (borrowed a reader for a couple days to keep a log), but I happened to notice the battery gauge was reading about 15-20 degrees on the discharging side. I reconnected the negative terminal and made sure we had a good connection, and for 5 minutes everything read OK, and then the needle started dropping. I can't do anything to bring it back up. It's not throwing an error at the moment, though. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...