Jump to content

2011 Silverado 1500 Rack n Pinion Issues


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone,
My name is Shayne and I am the service manager for Bucks Auto Parts in Canada. Ive been having issues with a 2011 Silverado 1500 5.3L. We have swapped out the rack and pinion on this truck 3 times. Now before the 4th I am trying to find answers to our problem. The first 2 racks that went into this vehicle were both rebuilt. Each one of those did not last more than 2-3 months. The 3rd time we ordered directly from GM and that also did not last more than 3 months also. Now I have come to the point before giving it a go a 4th time to figure this situation out, also to get answers for my client. The actual problem is that the bushings in the rack do not last and causes the rack to have play, and bad driving. The truck has a leveling, there are no oversized tires on it. The roads we have around are fair considering we are in Quebec. The client does some hunting and work in the bush. We took this into consideration also but not convinced this is the problem. As a service manager I myself would be upset and not want to repay labor time to have this replaced again. GM does not want to cover it also, as they said they are not the ones who have done the job. They will on the other hand send a new rack and pinion, take the other back have it inspected and from there determine weather or not it is bad or good. If its good they charge me another complete rack, if bad well the part is covered. This is also a chance I do not want to take. We have a guy from a local GM dealer give us his take and he responded with "he has never encountered this problem". Anybody with any ideas or has seen this let me know what your take is please.

Thanks  

Posted

not sure what the answer is to this problem but I have had leveling kits on many trucks and never encountered this problem.  my dad also farms so we take the trucks off in fields all the time.  Has the vehicle ever been in an accident?

Posted
On 10/31/2018 at 3:58 PM, BUCKSAUTO said:

Hi everyone,
My name is Shayne and I am the service manager for Bucks Auto Parts in Canada. Ive been having issues with a 2011 Silverado 1500 5.3L. We have swapped out the rack and pinion on this truck 3 times. Now before the 4th I am trying to find answers to our problem. The first 2 racks that went into this vehicle were both rebuilt. Each one of those did not last more than 2-3 months. The 3rd time we ordered directly from GM and that also did not last more than 3 months also. Now I have come to the point before giving it a go a 4th time to figure this situation out, also to get answers for my client. The actual problem is that the bushings in the rack do not last and causes the rack to have play, and bad driving. The truck has a leveling, there are no oversized tires on it. The roads we have around are fair considering we are in Quebec. The client does some hunting and work in the bush. We took this into consideration also but not convinced this is the problem. As a service manager I myself would be upset and not want to repay labor time to have this replaced again. GM does not want to cover it also, as they said they are not the ones who have done the job. They will on the other hand send a new rack and pinion, take the other back have it inspected and from there determine weather or not it is bad or good. If its good they charge me another complete rack, if bad well the part is covered. This is also a chance I do not want to take. We have a guy from a local GM dealer give us his take and he responded with "he has never encountered this problem". Anybody with any ideas or has seen this let me know what your take is please.

Thanks  

I know exactly what the problem is as I have seen it several times myself. It's actually a problem with your shop and how Nice the equipment is and how nice the impact is you are using to install the part. When you are tightening the bushing down the is a lip between the rack when the bushing goes in and where it meets the frame. It's more than likely not the 18's that are causing it but the 22/24 bolt bushings? Normally people ram them down with a 1/2 impact which pulls the bushing all the way to the inside and causes more pressure on the outside allowing the rack to rock causing the bushings to go bad very very fast. If people have a cheap impact or low shop air this isn't a problem because the impact isn't strong enough to cause the issue. Which is normally the case. We ran into this at our shop and I have done a few of these coming from other shops for the same problem.

 

Tighten them (Drivers side) to 162lb ft and you will not have this problem again.

Tighten the 18's (Passanger side) to 74lb Ft

 

Here is a picture where you can kinda see the lip.

Capture.JPG.a7444fe5f0044f481af0a8d9544bb997.JPG

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 456 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...