Jump to content

hypertech or westerns


mustard man

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just got my 03 sierra 4.8 in march and have almost 10K miles on it. I did exhaust work to it.

 

flowmaster 40series ( non delta) duals at a 45 out the back. ( no other mods)

 

what are peoples thoughts of the hypertech. do they really work? can you run 87octane with it? I run 89 all the time.

 

westerns. I hear amazing things about this setup. $595. thats over 200 more than the hyper tech. is it worth that much money? :smash:

Posted

Your comparing apples to oranges there. if you want nothing but wide open throttle performance, Hypertech is your answer. If you want power and throttle response across the spectrum, get teh westers or a Predator programmer. :smash:

Posted

If you use the hypertech and program it for 87 octane tuning you will still get detination.Ive had many hypertech programmers for all the diff.truck ive had and the westers blows them away.Its not even a comparison.I will not get another hypertech product again now that I have experieced westers tuning.

Posted

Just wish Westers wasn't so darn expensive. Between my truck payment, house payment, college classes, and the twin girls. Money is just a bit tight for what they are asking. I guess I will have to wait till the truck is paid for. :eek:

Posted

if you wanna spend the $$$$ Westers is to be Awesome!!! if not get Hypertech, Diablo, or Superchips. Out of those (I don't have first hand experience but have read nad heard a lot)....Diablo or Superchips.....I got a Hypertech for my 98 5.7 and it is cool (I got it used...otherwise woulda been an SPE ProFlash or Superchip). *I didn't realize it really only helped at FOT(Full Open Throttle).

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have the Hypertech on my '02 5.3L. And it doesn't just help at full throttle. The truck has more power throughout the rpm range. Different trucks respond differently to different programmers. Most people that buy the Hypertech don't get aggressive enough with the settings, therefore they are disappointed with it. It made a big difference on my truck. But having said all that, I am going to try a Wester's just because of the rave reviews it gets from so many people. I just hope it's worth the big price tag.

Posted

That HPP3 is a pile. The Diablo marries itself to the VIN of the programmed vehicle. So dont expect to sell it in the near future if you buy one.

 

Look into this:

Nelson Performance Tuning

 

Nelson Thread 1

 

Nelson Thread 2

 

Nelson Thread 3

 

LS1Edit is the only way to fly. The big difference between the Hypertech, Westers and Nelson tune is the Hypertech does not have the option to kill TM. That is the BIG difference you feel with the "custom" tunes.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Superchips & Diablo

We offer both and we sell way more superchips than diablo. However, the diablo is gaining speed. (no pun intended). However, the diable sells for more.

 

To check out performance gains by model visit RealTruck.Com

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
That HPP3 is a pile. The Diablo marries itself to the VIN of the programmed vehicle. So dont expect to sell it in the near future if you buy one.

 

Look into this:

Nelson Performance Tuning

 

Nelson Thread 1

 

Nelson Thread 2

 

Nelson Thread 3

 

LS1Edit is the only way to fly. The big difference between the Hypertech, Westers and Nelson tune is the Hypertech does not have the option to kill TM. That is the BIG difference you feel with the "custom" tunes.

nothing against Nelsons but you get no credit towards a new computer if you ever sell your vehicle so it's kinda the same as the diablo

Posted
nothing against Nelsons but you get no credit towards a new computer if you ever sell your vehicle so it's kinda the same as the diablo.

I hear ya man. You pick what you wish. I programmed my own with Edit. On this board everybody goes with Westers. On LS1Tech everyone talks about Nelsons. I have neither tune. I wanted TM gone and full programmability of my PCM without having to send it to Canada or driving somewhere to get it flashed. So I just got Edit. That and I can drive and fine tune things.

Posted

the funny thing is I was just on LS1Tech and couldn't believe the bashing going on.

 

There is some serious brown nosing going on there :wtf:

 

I was interested in LS1 edit but I didn't have access to a laptop, a week after buying the Wester's, my bro bought a laptop :cheers: . In all honesty I think for me to have gotten what Lyndon did for me out of the truck would've taken awhile to figure out.

 

Have you ever thought of sending your LS1edit readings to a tuner and having them send you a program for your truck? (kinda like going to their shop but avoiding the drive :D )

Posted
Why is there a warning meter below my name? :cheers:

it below everyones......you are the only one that can see it though. Better be good...."THE MAN" is watching :wtf:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...