Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’m having a issue with the dashboard not coming on not working what so ever . Speedo and rpm gauge not working and the digital display not showing up and also my radio blacked out as well plus steering wheels controls are not lit up . But everything else seems to work fine . Even my backup camera comes on in reverse it’s very odd to me so if anyone could help I’d appreciate it deeply .  

Posted
16 minutes ago, 15 denali said:

I’m having a issue with the dashboard not coming on not working what so ever . Speedo and rpm gauge not working and the digital display not showing up and also my radio blacked out as well plus steering wheels controls are not lit up . But everything else seems to work fine . Even my backup camera comes on in reverse it’s very odd to me so if anyone could help I’d appreciate it deeply .  

Welcome to the site.

 

My guess is your HMI module is going bad. Taking down one function at a time.

  • Like 1
Posted

So it that will cause all that stuff to not work. Or that just for the radio? I just wondering if it’s a fuse or something .

Posted
33 minutes ago, 15 denali said:

So it that will cause all that stuff to not work. Or that just for the radio? I just wondering if it’s a fuse or something .

Believe it controls most/all of the electronics associated with the dash.

 

There are some post on here about the same/similar problem.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Could lead me in the right direction cause I really shouldn’t be driving it until it fixed and I’d like to do what I need cause I have no idea what’s going on and I just got the truck about a week ago and haven’t even drove it but once . And I appreciate your help 

Posted
22 minutes ago, 15 denali said:

And it that the box that you remove the glove box to get to with like 5 plugs or something .

Yes sir.

 

I would do some research and see if you can upgrade to the current version so you can add CarPlay, if that is really the problem.

Posted
4 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Yes sir.

 

I would do some research and see if you can upgrade to the current version so you can add CarPlay, if that is really the problem.

Ok cool I really appreciate the help . I’ll run through everything one more time tomorrow and see what I come up with . And also to know if it’s bad would I need to take it to the dealership to let them run a test to determine if that the issues if I can’t fine anything myself. 

Posted
1 hour ago, 15 denali said:

Ok cool I really appreciate the help . I’ll run through everything one more time tomorrow and see what I come up with . And also to know if it’s bad would I need to take it to the dealership to let them run a test to determine if that the issues if I can’t fine anything myself. 

You are very welcome.

 

Good luck!

Posted
5 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

You are very welcome.

 

Good luck!

Well I have figured out the issue I’m sure I put in some aftermarket leds headlights bulbs and well I decided to remove them just to see and put the factory yellow bulbs back in and got up this morning and opened the dirt everything is working completely fine . That’s just crazy . So now I have to do some research and get some actual led bulbs that won’t effect that problem from happening again . 

Posted
4 hours ago, 15 denali said:

Well I have figured out the issue I’m sure I put in some aftermarket leds headlights bulbs and well I decided to remove them just to see and put the factory yellow bulbs back in and got up this morning and opened the dirt everything is working completely fine . That’s just crazy . So now I have to do some research and get some actual led bulbs that won’t effect that problem from happening again . 

That is good news for the holiday's.

 

Search around on the site to find a brand of LED's that don't cause adverse electrical effects and you should be fine to run them.

 

Merry Christmas!!!

Posted
21 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

That is good news for the holiday's.

 

Search around on the site to find a brand of LED's that don't cause adverse electrical effects and you should be fine to run them.

 

Merry Christmas!!!

Yeah it was great news and will do! Thank you and marry Christmas to you as well!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well here I am again it work for like 2 days then back to not working again . I ordered a hmi and just replaced it and still nothing I’ve checked all my fuses and none are blown. Help please .

Posted
39 minutes ago, 15 denali said:

Well here I am again it work for like 2 days then back to not working again . I ordered a hmi and just replaced it and still nothing I’ve checked all my fuses and none are blown. Help please .

Post a picture of your dash, so we can see what you are describing.

 

Do any of the lights on the gauge cluster work?

Posted
On 12/17/2019 at 9:53 AM, 15 denali said:

Yeah it was great news and will do! Thank you and marry Christmas to you as well!

 

8F0756C4-250E-404B-9982-F91F6B512198.jpeg

70AE84CA-19DA-44F8-B4B9-6FF2904F6BD6.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,863
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Bulldogger
    Newest Member
    Bulldogger
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 798 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I figured you would know about it.
    • It added a cost layer to an already limited production supply. True that. 
    • Swap costs and supply/demand balance. When a barrel comes out of the ground the entire range of products are present but not all at the same percentage.    Breakdown of Refined Products The following table summarizes the approximate output from a standard 42-gallon barrel of crude oil: Product Type Gallons per Barrel Percentage of Total Gasoline 20 gallons 45% Diesel Fuel 9 gallons 21% Other Products 13 gallons 31%   Most of that diesel figure is 'straight run' or cut from the barrel. Gasoline 'cut from the barrel runs 0 to 20% at the crude. So in the crude unit there is more diesel the gasoline, usually.  The full refining experience however gives the tabled values. Ego there is half the diesel than gasoline after the 'first crack' That could be an FCC unit, or Isomax or....   Those units take heavy products and break the big ones into little ones. Those numbers are harder to get hold of but directionally it ends up the same.    Really light products are very profitable. Ethylene and Propylene to name two. Those are cracked from slightly heavier feeds like NG and Propane and Ethane. The cracker harshness determines the feed for distillation. Those feeds come from less profitable products like diesel and gasoline.    So...there is a swap cost. How much market is there TODAY and what crude am I running TODAY..... what is my process capable of always.    There is this as well. The USA uses allot more gasoline than it does diesel so in the cracker the process is tilted to gasoline production which....limits supply of diesel. OTR uses the most and it has different requirements than automotive and agricultural.  Limiting auto products.    You are correct however. It is less refined, just less of it. Allot less. 
    • Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...