Jump to content

2014 Silverado electrical nightmare

Johnbellaville

By Johnbellaville
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, Johnbellaville said:

Positive and negative cables have been replaced not the issue

Yeah, I wasn't saying you have issues personally. I was saying the battery cables have issues on these trucks. Sorry if that was confusing. I still need all the codes and I can help you with this. I can also give you information that the other dealer could be overlooking if you give me the codes.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jaychevy81
Jaychevy81

I have read on FB there is a ground wire under the drivers A pillar that when the truck was built it’s half on the cab insulation and half on the truck. If you pull the A pillar towards the dash spea

carnau
carnau

Man your dealer kinda sucks. At my dealership, if it doesn't fix the issue... You do not pay. They should have done a loaded voltage drop test on your battery cables before replacing them. Ask them to

carnau
carnau

You can have issues with batter cables. We have had alot of issues with them from 2007 - 2013. The voltage drop within the cable (resistance) gets above 1volt. so when you're cranking, driving, ect yo

Posted Images

Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted
26 minutes ago, carnau said:

Yeah, I wasn't saying you have issues personally. I was saying the battery cables have issues on these trucks. Sorry if that was confusing. I still need all the codes and I can help you with this. I can also give you information that the other dealer could be overlooking if you give me the codes.

Ok just got it back still not fixed here goes with the codes u0073 u0102 u0101 u0121 u0140 u0401 p0575 p0700 p0856 p1506 p2544 u0415 u0100

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
43 minutes ago, Johnbellaville said:

Ok just got it back still not fixed here goes with the codes u0073 u0102 u0101 u0121 u0140 u0401 p0575 p0700 p0856 p1506 p2544 u0415 u0100

Ok, I am going to do some research on these codes and follow them down a high speed circuit and see where the problem is more than likely. Is the vehicle working fine at the moment or is it failing currently?

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
47 minutes ago, Johnbellaville said:

Ok just got it back still not fixed here goes with the codes u0073 u0102 u0101 u0121 u0140 u0401 p0575 p0700 p0856 p1506 p2544 u0415 u0100

Did they give you the printout I asked for? The reason I ask is I need to know which module is setting the codes. For instance, the ECM is setting the u0073 and the BCM is setting the U0102.

 

Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, carnau said:

Did they give you the printout I asked for? The reason I ask is I need to know which module is setting the codes. For instance, the ECM is setting the u0073 and the BCM is setting the U0102.

 

 

image.jpg

Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, carnau said:

Ok, I am going to do some research on these codes and follow them down a high speed circuit and see where the problem is more than likely. Is the vehicle working fine at the moment or is it failing currently?

Truck is running fine now but that will change lol

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Johnbellaville said:

Truck is running fine now but that will change lol

I need the VIN number for the truck so I can get the RPO code list please.

kwOH Enthusiast

kwOH

Posted
Posted
All grounds checked and cleaned took to dealer and they replaced positive and negative cables 450$ still having the same issue 1000$ this month no luck 

What about the battery harness or the wire that goes to the fuse box?
carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted

Ok. So this is why I really needed you to get the print Report from GDS2. Its not your fault, They should have just printed it out for you instead of making you right it all down. The reason I say that is it shows the EBCM with code u0121 which is no communication with the EBCM. The EBCM can not give itself that code. Another thing is I am missing some key module codes. In the schematic I have below you have a TCIM (onstar module) HMIC (radio module) and Power steering control module all on the system without any codes in them. This is impossible. You have a EBCM that can't communicate with the BCM,TCCM,TCM and the TCCM that can't communicate with anything yet you have no codes in the TCCM or the PSCM? That means the system has to make some wiring jumps that are impossible unless this vehicle creates its own wiring as you drive. Next they wrote, or told you to write. No communication with the chassis control module or the park brake module. Well the reason for this is, your vehicle RPO's tell you that you don't have JL1 (chassic control module) and trucks come with a manual parking brake... so you don't need a parking brake control module... So your truck doesn't have these modules, that's why they are not communicating. 

 

I hope you didn't pay them anything. This is actually making me upset they didn't take the time to give you the proper information because they are either 1.) Lazy 2.) don't want to tell you they have no idea what they are doing. or 3.) Don't care enough about you to help you. This is why dealerships get a bad name.

 

With that said. With the information you have given me. I have a question. When everything goes crazy  in the truck, does it cut off?

 

I will explain.

 

It looks to me that you have an intermittent wiring failure between the ECM X1 39 and 40 to TCM X1 10 and 11.

That or you have a bad ECM.

 

If the truck does not shut off when this happens that lets me know the ECM is still working, it just cannot communicate with past the break. If you would check across terminals 6 and 14 at the DLC when the problem happens. You would probably find that you have 120ohms of resistance instead of the 60ohms you need. This would be because of the break in the system and only reaching 1 terminating resistor. If you look at the document there is a 120ohm resistor in the ECM and a terminating 120 past the EBCM. If the whole system is working you will have 60ohms. If it's at 120ohms you disconnect the ECM and check again. If it has 120ohms still you start bypassing modules on the way to the ECM also back testing the 120ohm resistor across each module you disconnect.

 

I know this looks like a whole bunch of jibberish. I understand it 100% because I do this everyday but I can see how it would look like Japanese. If you don't understand something I have said please please please ask and i will do my best to explain it further.

 

Your next step should be to get a printout from GDS2 of the DTC report even if you have to go to a different dealer.. If i can get that I can get you pretty close if not 100% completely accurate of where the break is or narrow it down to 2 modules and a pair of wiring that will be easy for someone to check.

 

Or you could just get the dealership to unpin, solder and replace the 2 terminals at the ECM and TCM and run new wiring. This is what I would do if it were my vehicle. I don't know that I would let the dealership you took it to do it... But that's again up to you.

 

 

image0.jpeg.e713cd7329cc175d9db8c46be14588d3.jpeg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

My handwriting is way better than that lol that is what they gave me and they wouldn’t let me have my truck until the bill was paid but no truck has never shut off on me I did cut it off to reset the limp mode one time and it wouldn’t crank back up for like 2 minutes. I gave them a terrible review they probably wouldn’t give me anything now will probably trade this thing in soon

Edited by Johnbellaville
carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Johnbellaville said:

Truck is running fine now but that will change lol

Here is a scan of the High Speed System from the picture. Gives you a better idea of what I was trying to explain.Capture.thumb.JPG.5d328977d02986056f5c7048316b5958.JPG

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, Johnbellaville said:

My handwriting is way better than that lol that is what they gave me and they wouldn’t let me have my truck until the bill was paid but no truck has never shut off on me I did cut it off to reset the limp mode one time and it wouldn’t crank back up for like 2 minutes. I gave them a terrible review they probably wouldn’t give me anything now will probably trade this thing in soon

I hate that cause this is literally an easy fix. I know it sounds in depth, but $20 worth of wiring, $20 worth of terminals and you're fixed. Is it a big dealership? This is something that needs to be fixed at a dealership, just not that dealership. Are there any other dealerships close to you? Take a trip to SC, I'll fix it for you. lol

Timmer66 Enthusiast

Timmer66

Posted
Posted

My Silverado had a very similar issue. Lots of faults, reduced power and eventual death. And also when the weather was wet/snowy and crappy. Then after sitting would miraculously self fix. Turned out to be a corroded network wire just in front of the rear wheel. When it got wet it grounded the network and nothing could communicate. A bit of solder and some heat shrink solved it. To the credit of the dealership I dealt with, they really worked to dissuade me from replacing the EBCM when I thought it was the issue, saying they had yet to see one fail. So I persevered until I fount the nick in the insulation. 

Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 hours ago, carnau said:

I hate that cause this is literally an easy fix. I know it sounds in depth, but $20 worth of wiring, $20 worth of terminals and you're fixed. Is it a big dealership? This is something that needs to be fixed at a dealership, just not that dealership. Are there any other dealerships close to you? Take a trip to SC, I'll fix it for you. lol

I appreciate your efforts on this it does give me hope I’m going to a shop I was referred to today to see what they say 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,818
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jrogjr
    Newest Member
    jrogjr
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 837 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Average Assembly 4.8%   That's the likelihood of a light duty vehicle reaching 250,000 miles. Link below has the stats on this. Among pickups the 350 series (Dodge)  and higher (450 Ford) are most likely and nothing American built in the lighter trucks pegs a number higher than the overall average.  200K and up is the stomping grounds of Asian vehicles. Toyota Sequoia the leader at 39.1% probability.      https://www.autoweek.com/news/a68886903/vehicles-most-likely-to-last-over-250000-miles/   Likelihood drops dramatically at 100,000 miles of reaching even 150,000 miles. 250,000 is deep in the tail of the curve.    I've been told by the 'experts' that I don't need oils of the caliber I use. My high viscosity is damaging my motors. Ash content it to high and WILL foul plugs and kill cats and O2's. I don't need that much ZDP; my choice is over added and not cutting edge. I change it to often. I baby them to much.    Three Honda's reached 200K + and none used oil. All Red Line motors. All sold to friends or family. One Toyota reached 300K using oil, Pennzoil. Dizzy 300K using QSUD until it cashed the rings at 80K then whatever but often ever since. Did you know this engine still sports the OEM timing chain and is dead silent? Pepper spitting into the wind short of 200K, Red Line and changed often. Uses zero oil. A HPFP and a pinion seal. Still using most parts it left Fort Wayne with. So 50% of my vehicles have gone past 250K and 100% of the last half dozen past 200K. Of these two using "shelf oils' did so using abnormal oil and the four that used a premium boutique oil did not. There might be something there the experts have missed. 🤔                
    • hotairgypsy
      VSE CCV Bypass - Anyone have this installed in their L5P?

      By hotairgypsy · Posted

      i dont know where you been reading...they make a top notch product..people say lots of great things about them..yes it can be difficult to get a hold of them when you need help sometimes put when  you do it is great service...   as for the actual question at hand i have the ccv mod and i vented to atmos in my case...I got my ccv from somewhere else but i have plenty of VSE product...for starters i use their tuning on my 22 duramax
    • ManyCamaroz
      “Service Emission System” & “175 miles until “65 MPH Max Speed”

      By ManyCamaroz · Posted

      It's not that it sits for extended periods. I drive it every couple of weeks. However, I did consider draining the DEF and replacing it.    Don't you get a "Poor quality DEF warning" if its bad?
    • chris21
      “Service Emission System” & “175 miles until “65 MPH Max Speed”

      By chris21 · Posted

      Try draining the def and relacing with new if it has been sitting for a long time. Def does go bad after a little while.
    • Thestonedone
      2015 Silverado with HUD retrofit/upgrade.

      By Thestonedone · Posted

      Thanks @Viktorrocks15 if you are still out there.   I followed your instructions and worked out great, went to the scrap yard and procured 2016 escalade cluster, hud, bezel, and switch. Got lucky and found a Camaro in the u-pull with the HUD bezel.   I made my own harness with these diagrams: https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/23_Escalade_Escalade_ESV_Electrical_Body_Builder_SM_en_US_2022OCT25.pdf   I used escalade cluster because its the best one that will work IMO. Still need to get it programmed but it looks really good.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...