Jump to content

LMC Truck Website Issues


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello, first post here.

 

Looking to restore a 98 K2500 I got from a friend of mine who was ready to junk it.  (Free truck!)  He used it for his business and it's been beaten up, but not abused.  Gonna need a lot of work though, especially in the interior and a few exterior issues.  It also has an aftermarket dump on it we'll be removing on Saturday.

 

I have an old paper catalog from LMC Truck, so I went to the website to see the current prices of a few things, and it looks like it isn't working so well.  Is LMC Truck still a good place to shop for parts, or can you guys recommend something better?  JC Whitney seemed a bit hit or miss.

 

Posted

I buy most of my parts from rockauto, but I suppose it depends on what parts you need.  Depending on how expensive the part is, I would check multiple sites for pricing.

 

For example, way back, I had to buy fuel pumps for my truck, locally, the price was over $500cdn each, rockauto was right around $225cdn each, but spectra just happened to be dumping amazon stock (it appeared that spectra had shipped it to amazon's warehouse a year earlier, so I guess they didn't want to pay amazon to hold it, or pay to ship it back), so I got it for $30US (the cost on the fedex label for shipping from spectra to amazon) + shipping...

 

edit:

...and don't forget to use the 5% off discount code they have when ordering...

Posted

Thanks for the info, guys. 

 

Back in the day, I had a couple of projects that kept me in the know about this stuff.  It's been well over 20 years, and this truck is my first foray back since.  

Posted

Epilogue:  Looks like the issue I was having with the LMC Truck site was the browser I was using was blocking the popup where you enter your vehicle information, but it still kept the area covered by the popup from working properly.  Tried a different browser and all is well.

 

Thanks again for the advice, and I am looking into those other suppliers you suggested.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,245 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...