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2016 Silverado Door Speaker Upgrade (W/O Bose)

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In this forum Im going to list the speakers and items I purchased to upgrade the speakers in my 2016 Silverado. The factory speakers are terrible and they now sound better than the Bose system that I had on my last vehicle. 


Parts List (Essentials):

SH3802 Speaker Wiring Harness *2           $25.96

Metra 82-3005 Speaker Bracket                  $19.99

Scoche SAGMHR-634                                   $11.99

Kicker 46CSS674                                           $127.96

Kicker 47KSC6704                                        $119.95

Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack                     $189.95


Tax                                                                   $40.90

Total                                                                $536.71


Parts List (Extra):

Nico Sound Deadening Mat                       $49.99

Auto Trim Removal                                      $6.99

Heat Shrink Butt Connectors                      $19.99

Heat Gun                                                        $24.98

Speaker Wire                                                 $13.49

Micro2 Fuse Tap                                           $10.79

Wire Crimps                                                   $31.30


Tax (8.25%)                                                   $12.99

Total                                                               $170.52




Noico Sound Deadening


Here's the sound damping material on the passenger side door. 


One box of Noico Sound Deadening covered all four doors. This made a HUGE difference in sound (Bass) quality.  

In this picture you'll notice that there are two pairs of speaker cable run through the door. That way i could put the crossover filter inside the cab and not in or on the door.


If I could do this over again i would cut out this clear plastic https://www.homedepot.com/p/HUSKY-10-ft-x-50-ft-Clear-6-mil-Plastic-Sheeting-CF0610-50C/202184196 the size of the door. That way i could tape it to the door and draw where all the holes and cables are and make it where I could get maximum coverage. This stuff is difficult to cut and measure while putting it on the door. Once its stuck to the door, there is no getting it off in one piece. 





Tweeter Cut Out


I made a template from the old tweeters on card stock and used that to draw a cut out on some wood i purchased from Lowes. 





Crossover Placement 


The crossover filters fit perfect where the fuse box is. 







Hooking up the Front Door Speaker


Here is where I ran the two pairs of speaker wire through the door. I had to use fish tape to pull the wire through that rubber boot. It wasn't difficult as others made it out to be.

***I went from the door side up through the boot***

Easiest possible way. In the photo you see a clip there on the top side of the plastic, that is how you pop it off the trucks cab. 


https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56005-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=fish+tape&qid=1592440686&sr=8-2    $13.00

Heres a link to the fish tape. 







Harness Side (Green Plug) hooked to Head Unit


Here is how I tied in the wires behind the unit (Green) harness.

***Side Note. I initially spliced in to the Yellow wire from the amp (Power Wire) to the Red wire on harness and Black (Ground). I ended up cutting those and wiring them up (Heat Shrinking) to have a solid connection. You don't want to have a loose ground or power wire to your amp. You can damage the amp. 


On the amp side, these are the speaker wires that you'll have to cut the RCA Female Connections off. Ill give a wiring schematic on how I wired them up. 





If you're curious as to why I have three band-aids on my fingers. Put the fan cover back on your fan after servicing it.  




These are the wires going to your door speakers. 







Alpine Amp Setting


I stuffed the behind the radio between the front window and the dash. There are two T screws up there that you'll need to take out so that you can pry that up to push it back there. Also, I had to extend the wires on the amp (the harness side that is short) that way i could tune it while it was plugged in. I set my HPF for both front and rear to 60hz (The mid-range sounds more controlled and its better for your speakers) and the can gain about 1/3 the way up. 




Here is picture before I tucked it down under the front dash. If you don't take the two T screws out, it'll be a pain in the but getting that amp to slide down in there.





**** Make sure that you extend the wires hooking from the amp harness thats hooked in to the side that your gain controls are. I had to call it a night because of this and start fresh in the morning. You can not tune the amp and put it under the dash without extending the harness with 4 pairs of speaker wires. I dont see why alpine made one harness to their amp 2' long and the other harness 4 inches.**** 


The smaller harness with the RCA's is there on the right in the picture below. Just do your self a favor and extend those 1' or 2' before you start! 




Blue Remote Wire

Here's the fuse i used for the remote wire. This is the driver side fuse box.


I did purchase:


Micro2 Circuit Fuse, they changed the fuses since the last time I did this. For now, this will work. Make sure you put it on the left side so if it shorts and the fuse pops, there will no longer be power provided to the accessory wire. 







Auto Trim Removal $6.99



Heat Shrink Butt Connectors $19.99



Heat Gun $24.98



Speaker Wire @13.49



Micro2 Fuse Tap $10.79



Wire Crimps



Noico Sound Deadening









Edited by garrett0151
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