Jump to content

Running Lights Not Working

14silverado5.3

By 14silverado5.3
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

14silverado5.3 Enthusiast

14silverado5.3

Posted
Posted

Good Evening All,

 

I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 LT Z71. Aftermarket LED headlights and tail lights. Never have had any issues with them but yesterday my running lights just randomly stopped working. My low beams come on but that is it. No side markers up front and no brake lights in the back when I'm in drive or when I remote start the truck. The brakes work when pressed but at night they don't light up until they are pressed.  Turn signals work up front and in the back. Reverse lights work. License plate light works. 

 

I saw a video on youtube of a guy who has a 2016 who had the same issues in the rear and he bypassed it using a butt connector but it wasn't detailed enough for me to do based off the video and quality. Doing that also wouldn't fix the fact my front running lights won't work (the amber blinkers). I could live with the front ambers not lighting up but I'm more concerned with the brake lights not illuminating in drive at night. 

 

I know the running lights are controlled by the BCM. Is there a good chance this has gone bad? Anything I can do to test and see or is this something I need a dealer to test. 

 

Looking for any suggestions. Thanks

14silverado5.3 Enthusiast

14silverado5.3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So the fuses were blown. Replaced and they blew immediately. Replaced the relay and the fuses again. Fuses blew again. So I’m assuming some sort of short. Could it be the bcm. Any suggestions?

  • 1 year later...
Ludgero New Member

Ludgero

Posted
Posted

Hi I have a 2018 gmc sierra 1500 and tailight running light doesn’t work and the front daytime running light doesn’t work on the right side and also I tried to install an aftermarket led tailight but when I connected it I smelled some burning what could be the problem thank you 

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
SSilverado New Member

SSilverado

Posted
Posted

Was this issue resolved I’m having the same problems as Ludgero with the right side running lamp in the rear and front DRL is not working.

Gmctrucks0848 New Member

Gmctrucks0848

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys any update running into the same issue with my 2017 GMC Sierra and this is the only article I’ve found so far , all my lights work like , break , reverse , left signal, but my light doesn’t stay on for break and the running light around the normal lights up front.  

Edited by Gmctrucks0848
  • 9 months later...
Nicholas Suddarth New Member

Nicholas Suddarth

Posted
Posted

having an issue with my daytime running lights. only one of the 2 on each headlight come on. the bottom one on the passenger side comes on and the top one on the drivers side comes on. But when I hit my lock and unlock button on my key fob all 4 come on. I checked the 2 fuses for the drl's and they are both fine. anybody have any ideas on what to check next?

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...