Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Seemed to be working today when I had both key fobs in my pocket.  Was in and out of the truck 10 to 20 times at my various stops.  Then all of the sudden was loud again when I got in.  Starting to wonder if there is a pattern I haven't figured out yet, like when I've unlocked the truck with the fob or used the keyless entry with the button on the door.  Either way that should matter so I'll probably still have go to the dealer eventually.

Edited by THE YETI
Posted
On 6/14/2021 at 8:26 AM, lebag335 said:

I logged out of my profile and returned to guest mode.  I went into settings/sounds and turned the start up volume nearly all the way down.  I logged back into my profile and now now no more LOUD start up!

That's what worked for me too. Changing the "guest" settings. Before it reads what remote is there it defaults to guest. Then swaps to yours. Changing both should fix it

  • Like 1
Posted

Got in this morn and it was crazy loud again. I was ready and in position to turn it down quickly, but still made me jump a bit.  No profiles on my LT so still haven't got it figured out 100% yet

Posted
1 hour ago, THE YETI said:

Got in this morn and it was crazy loud again. I was ready and in position to turn it down quickly, but still made me jump a bit.  No profiles on my LT so still haven't got it figured out 100% yet

And you've tried going into the "guest" profile and adjusting the settings there? I've noticed after adjusting those and going back to mine it solved it. The truck was defaulting to the guest profile while it "found" my key and signed into the profile. 

Posted
58 minutes ago, Danski said:

And you've tried going into the "guest" profile and adjusting the settings there? I've noticed after adjusting those and going back to mine it solved it. The truck was defaulting to the guest profile while it "found" my key and signed into the profile. 

There are no profiles at all not even "guest" in my truck.

 

It was fine this time when I just got in.

20210616_081438.jpg

20210616_081449.jpg

Posted
2 minutes ago, THE YETI said:

There are no profiles at all not even "guest" in my truck.

 

It was fine this time when I just got in.

20210616_081438.jpg

20210616_081449.jpg

Wow. Weird there isn't a "users" icon. Sorry, then I'm lost. 

Posted

Ya for a sec I was hoping it was in demo mode or something at first. But I quickly figured that couldn't be it.  I went from a 2015 High Country Dmax to this 2021 LT 6.6L and surprisingly there is a little bit of a learning curve here I suppose. But still don't get it either.

Posted

If we forget, start the truck, and start backing out of the driveway, the radio comes on very loud.  Makes you jump.  If I remember, I change the input to my phone before i shut the truck off.  Then when we start, it is on phone, and no loud radio.  Since the dealer hasn't heard of this problem, no use making a special trip in for it.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Same problem here. Super loud every time no matter if you reset the max volume at startup setting. Can they not beam updates to these trucks? No time to go to a dealer. Pretty ridiculous for a nearly $60k truck. 

Posted

Go in to your setting and do a FULL FACTORY RESET.  Save yourself a trip to the dealer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,188 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...