Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Had dreaded lifter tick. Replaced all lifters. New head gaskets, intake gaskets , coils, wires, plugs. Adjusted rockers to 22 ft. Lbs. By the manual. Torqued heads by the book. Using torque angle gauge.  Got it together. Runs rough. Any ideas?

Posted

are you throwing any codes?  Have you drove it at all?  A few suggestions is check your plugs for fouling.  Doing the front easy to get to ones will be good enough to check.  Also make sure all of your injectors are seated straight and plugged in. 

Posted

Does it idle ok then run rough under throttle? Cuz that what mine has started doing after a very similar rebuild, except mine was driving for around 1000 miles before it started this and also i fitted a new stg 1 cam at the rebuild.

Posted

Have pulled valve covers since.It runs good for a second at start up then starts running bad. With valve covers off. #1, 4, and 6 rockers aren't moving. They move when I'm turning over by hand. It's a new vlom.?????

Posted

It ran good before. Just had the lifter noise. It was only one lifter on #1 cylinder that failed. I've done mechanic work for 25 years until my health failed. But haven't worked on this particular problem. Have worked mostly on 60's-90's cars and trucks.

Posted

If it's only the AFM cylinders then it's likely the lifters again. If the rockers don't move at all then the lifters are stuck.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Update! Fixed that problem! The lifters on 1,4,and 6 were sticking in the guide trays. Runs good now. I bought new felpro head gaskets. And bought the metal felpro intake gaskets. Runs good but after driving around for a hour or so I got a p219a code. I did smoke test on the intake. No leaks. I pulled fuel rail and checked fuel injectors. They are working great. Bought new o-rings and installed the injectors back in. Still getting p219a code. Help!

Posted

I wonder if your 02 sensors on that bank are bad. I did a similar repair on a 5.3, because the intake lifter on #7 was collapsed. The engine was creating excessive vacuum in #7 cylinder, on the intake stroke. This was causing the engine to draw oil into that cylinder, and then push it into the exhaust system. I'm wondering if you had one or more cylinders doing the same thing. The oil may contaminate the O2 sensors, and then the computer would not be able to fine tune the fuel ratios properly. On your lifters that were sticking, was the problem caused by improperly aligned lifter guides?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    C. Hart
    Newest Member
    C. Hart
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 592 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the help!   I'm going to stop into the scales one of these days and weigh my axels, for the time being, I am going to run Toyo's recommendations and also do a chalk test. I have a tire shop that's going to try their scanner to reprogram and set the the factory psi values lower, and if they can't I'm going to order a scanner and do it myself!
    • You won’t do better than stock exhaust without headers. Just put your favorite muffler on it and it will do the job. 
    • I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"     I'd say its the head, and its either leaking at the casting line and dripping down the intake into the cylinder, or its another spot on the casting itself at the cylinder that is getting wet.  
    • Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...