Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

New to page thanks for any advise. 97 Sierra 4wd. Transfercase motor just clicks (even with ignition off) lights flash then stay on 4wd low. Never engages. Has new tccm, encoder/motor, switch on dash, front diff acuator, all fluids a full. Any ideas?

Edited by Debeard77
Posted
51 minutes ago, Debeard77 said:

New to page thanks for any advise. 97 Sierra 4wd. Transfercase motor just clicks (even with ignition off) lights flash then stay on 4wd low. Never engages. Has new tccm, encoder/motor, switch on dash, front diff acuator, all fluids a full. Any ideas?

 

 

 

   Hi.

 

Can you provide more specific information?

 

How did this problem come about?

Can you shift between different ranges at all?

What do you mean that it clicks even when ignition is off? What makes it click? Pressing buttons?

 

Did this problem happen before you replaced all that stuff, or did it happen after you replaced all the parts?

Posted (edited)

Just got the truck not long ago was doing before parts. With the key out the transfer case motor will  keep "clicking" like its trying to shift the case..there is no 4wd at all with not go in low or high. Have to take the fuse out or will just go and go.  Could the case be broke stuck in 2wd?

Edited by Debeard77
Posted

Also, when you shift the transfer case, are you following the instructions in the owners manual?

 

Simply pressing the tranfer case shift buttons is not the correct procedure. There are other necessary steps that must be taken if you want to change the tranfer case settings.

Posted

try disconnecting the battery. sometimes that works to reset the system. the only time I have seen that happen was on a 2000 Blazer with a bad battery. new battery and the system reset

Posted
9 minutes ago, Debeard77 said:

Just changed it no flakes. What steps are u speaking of?

 

 

I cant tell you what your vehicle needs. Here is what my rig wants, in order to shift from 4L to 2H:

 

1)  Engine running.

2) Transmission in neutral.

3) Vehicle rolling forward or backwards at 1 or 2 MPH.

4) Press transfer case shift button.

 

Your rig might want a different procedure.

 

 

Posted

if that doesn't work remove the motor from the tc and see if you can shift it manually. if you can't you found the problem

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

if that doesn't work remove the motor from the tc and see if you can shift it manually. if you can't you found the problem

 

 

Ya, that's a good idea. At least he could get it into 2H so that it can be driven.

 

It may shift by hand more easily of the transmission is in neutral. (might want to chalk the tires).

 

 

 

Posted

I don't know if its possible to install the motor incorrectly but thats a possibility as well

Posted

Pulled the encoder motor of transfercase I can shift it manually. Does anyone know how hard it should be to shift? Seemed like it took a lot of force to shift it.

Posted

it may be normal with out the truck rolling. with the encoder motor off but connected does it work when you try different modes? does it still click when shut off? if it seems to be working properly manually put it in 2hi and reinstall the motor and see if it works

Posted

the manual shift tcs sometimes take a good tug to change modes so as long as it does shift its probably ok. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,231 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...