Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've searched high and low but im not finding much. 

 

2017 GMC Sierra 2500 6.0l V8 - 48,835 miles - Getting codes P0036, P0138, P0141, P013A, P013E, P0054. Some of these are on the scanner multiple times. I replaced the bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor with a bosch direct fit, cleared the codes and started the truck. The code went away and stayed off for one drive and some time idling. I turned the truck off, and started it back up, the codes came back. I checked the connector, wiring and both fuses, cleared the code, went for a drive. The code stayed off until i got home, shut the truck off and then restarted it. The CEL came right back on instantly after starting it. Got any suggestions?

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, M1ck3y said:

What are the codes for?

 

P0036 - HO2S Heater control circuit sensor 2 DTS Severity 2 of 3: Repair immediately if drivability issues are present. Threat to essential system components if not repaired as soon as possible 

P0138 - H02S Circuit High Voltage Sensor 2 - Three Times

P0141 - H02S Heater Performance Sensor 2 - Three Times 

P013A - HO2S Slow Response Rich to Lean Sensor 2 

P0036 - Heater Control Circuit Sensor 2 - Three Times 

P013E - H02S Delayed Response Rich To Lean Bank 1 Sensor 2

P013A - H02S Slow Response Rich To Lean Sensor 2

P0054 - H02S Heater Resistance Sensor 2

 

On the scanner, some of the duplicate codes would read as "Stored" or "Pending" and the P0036 said "Permanent"

 

Let me know if any other information helps here. Im lost... Usually i can figure these things out with some research. I have a voltmeter that im going to check resistance on the old 02 sensor tomorrow to see if it was even bad. It barely had any carbon scoring or anything on it. It was actually relatively clean. I live in the midwest and surprisingly the truck is really clean. Like i said, i followed the harness back to the main run and there were no visible breaks or rub marks on any of the wires. The connector looked fine. Ill post what my findings are on the old sensor. Ill probably just go ahead and change both fuses tomorrow also.

 

 

 

Edited by Ddub711
Posted

I'm pretty sure AC Delco or Denso is the OEM sensor. I don't run Bosch sensor in these trucks.

  • Like 2
Posted
9 hours ago, CamGTP said:

I'm pretty sure AC Delco or Denso is the OEM sensor. I don't run Bosch sensor in these trucks.

So you're thinking a faulty sensor? I bought another bosch last night and was going to switch them out. I'm a big believer in OE parts also, just didn't get to a GM dealer to get one. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/3/2022 at 10:34 PM, CamGTP said:

I'm pretty sure AC Delco or Denso is the OEM sensor. I don't run Bosch sensor in these trucks.

 

Thank you for the sound advice. It was totally the Bosch sensor. I compared it to the original and they had the wiring backwards on it. I bought a scanner that reads live data and figured out it was reading nothing. So, i bought an AC Delco and that fixed it. Unfortunately, there are two permanent codes that my scanner will not erase. Is my only option going to the dealer and paying a 1 hour labor charge ($150) or is there a way to circumvent that?? I know on some older vehicles, you could disconnect the battery for a half hour or so and that would essentially reset the computer. Not sure if this is the case with OBDII. Any help would be appreciated!

Posted

Give it time and the codes will go away. Permanent codes are always that way. The check engine light will go off but those codes will remain until the computer says that it is no longer an issue. Give it like 20-30 key cycles and they will be gone. Check back in a few days is what I would do.

Posted
16 hours ago, newdude said:

OE oxygen sensors, every time.  We see problems left and right with aftermarkets, no matter the brand sometimes.  

Typically i stick with OE parts but, lesson learned on this one. 

Posted
16 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Give it time and the codes will go away. Permanent codes are always that way. The check engine light will go off but those codes will remain until the computer says that it is no longer an issue. Give it like 20-30 key cycles and they will be gone. Check back in a few days is what I would do.

Will do! Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,318 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...