KMT15 Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 My brakes are grinding real bad, I have the pads for all 4 sides. Took the front tire off today, Im assumin I need to remove the two 11/16 bolts and the Star allen thing? Let me know of any tips..... No I just need to find my torq wrench -KMT15
Burbinator Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 KMT15, Assuming nothing has changed since they built my '98, which I changed the pads on last weekend (I doubt if they have changed since they have been basically the same for 25+ years), here's what you need to do: Remove wheel Loose large allen head bolts from backside of caliper until they can be pulled back with your fingers. Caliper then can be lifted up and pads replaced. Only problem is, the piston in the caliper has extended over time to compensate for the wear of the pads. It must be pushed back in to give the new pads enough clearance to get the new pads on the rotor (disk). this can be done by using a large screwdriver to pry the piston back into the caliper while it is still sitting on the rotor, or you can pull it off and use a c-clamp or two. this will push brake fluid back into your master cylinder and it may overflow. Once the piston has been pushed back, the old pads can be removed and the new ones installed. The pads I just installed also came with new o-rings and seals and lube for the caliper sleeve that the allen head bolts slide through. the first couple of times you step on the brake, the pedal will go way down until the free play is removed from between the new pads and the rotor. Oh yeah, don't forget to put your wheels back on!
99-2door Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 If you have never changed brake pads befoer get somebody with some experience to show you how the first time. They can probably show you some good tips and then you won't be totally clueless and practicing on the system that STOPS YOUR TRUCK!
Chuckster Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 . this will push brake fluid back into your master cylinder and it may overflow. That statement is exactly why I will never go a Jiffy lube type place.. These idiots insist on filling all low fluid levels.. Including Brake Fluid.. Then the next brake job you do you end up with it all over the floor.. Brake fluid is a NON-Consumable fluid.. (unless of course you have a leak)
blue2kzr2 Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 I had a JL want to fill my brake fluid when it looked low from the FRONT. I asked them to look at it from the side and they changed their tune...
JAF1 Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 Hold on guys. You should NOT be pushing the fluid back through the systems like that. That was fine in the days without ABS. With ABS, there are check valves that need to seat correctly. When you push that (dirty) fluid back up in there you can get dirt on that valve seat. Instead. Crack open the bleeder (hit it with some cleaner before you turn it) SLOWLY while you are putting pressure on the backing plate. Fluid will run out. As soon as your back all the way quickly turn it back off. Now you just need to top off the master cylinder. Also, don't not apply the brakes until AFTER you have the wheel back on and torqued. If you do it before hand you'll have backed the rotor off the back mounting surface by centering it with the pads. Then when you go to put your wheel on the rotor is no longer in place. Above all have FUN!
MoJo Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 And, just incase you need to clean up some brake fluid, use rubbing alcohol! Cheap and safe. BTW, if you stop by the old parts store, you can get a low price brake bleeder kit that comes with tubing and a one way valve. That way, when you crack the bleeder screw to either push back the pad and/or bleed the system, you can do it yourself and, if you put the other end of the tube into an empty beer can/bottle, you won't have a big mess to clean up.
KMT15 Posted January 16, 2004 Author Posted January 16, 2004 Im pretty good mechanically... Im only 18 but Ive watched my dad change pads on all our cars over the years. I just need to find our torq wrench, those bolts are on tight, BTW, what is the torq rating for when I put them back on? And I will have my dad double check my work when Im finished just to be safe -KMT15
GM GIMP Posted January 16, 2004 Posted January 16, 2004 Hold on guys. You should NOT be pushing the fluid back through the systems like that. That was fine in the days without ABS. With ABS, there are check valves that need to seat correctly. When you push that (dirty) fluid back up in there you can get dirt on that valve seat. Instead. Crack open the bleeder (hit it with some cleaner before you turn it) SLOWLY while you are putting pressure on the backing plate. Fluid will run out. As soon as your back all the way quickly turn it back off. Now you just need to top off the master cylinder. Also, don't not apply the brakes until AFTER you have the wheel back on and torqued. If you do it before hand you'll have backed the rotor off the back mounting surface by centering it with the pads. Then when you go to put your wheel on the rotor is no longer in place. Above all have FUN! You just saved a few anti-lock units i'm sure.
trout31 Posted January 17, 2004 Posted January 17, 2004 Since you said your brakes were grinding real bad, remember to do a good check of the condition of your rotors. They may need to be resurfaced or replaced. Also, any time you take your wheels off for any reason, you have a handy opportunity to lube your suspension if its due.
trout31 Posted January 17, 2004 Posted January 17, 2004 Since you said your brakes were grinding real bad, remember to do a good check of the condition of your rotors. They may need to be resurfaced or replaced. Also, any time you take your wheels off for any reason, you have a handy opportunity to lube your suspension if its due.
trout31 Posted January 17, 2004 Posted January 17, 2004 Sorry for the double post. Got a little click-happy.
Nick2000Gmc Posted January 18, 2004 Posted January 18, 2004 ATTENTION ATTENTION PLEASE BUMP THIS A BIT You should always pump the pedal about 20 times after shutting off the truck to work on the brakes. If not the brake booster is still charged and I don't know about you but 7000 pounds don't sound like fun to me, if by accident it went off on ya your gonna loose whatever is in there. ATTENTION MAKE SURE TO PUMP BRAKES OR THE BPPSTER STAYS CHARGED AND YOU COULD LOOSE A FINGER Sorry I don't mean to sound like a public service announcement but too many people get hurt doing there own work and never hear of things like SPLIT rims killing guys or the time a guy had a socket explode in his hand while taking a wheel off ( NEVER HOLD THE SOCKET WHILE IT"S MOVING OR HAMMERING) Anyways I hope at least one person reads this, I seen a guys hand who had a socket get him and trust me it wasn't pretty.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.