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Upfitter Switch Primary Power location

Hutchy

By Hutchy
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

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Hutchy Enthusiast

Hutchy

Posted
Posted

Hi Everybody,

 

I recently purchased and installed the OEM upfitter switch kit, to my 2019 GMC Sierra AT4; looks nice and clean. Anyway, I'm about to connect a device, but realized there's no pwer going to the (kit supplied) under-dash auxillary fuse/relay box? The switch do illuminate, but there's no power coming out of the leads. I'm assuming that I need to install some primary fuses, because my truck didn't originally come with the 9L7 option? I've COMBED the internet and can't really find where the main power junction is located. There was a diagram that said Fuse #94 should be one of the inputs, but the under hood distribution box only lists up to #92; with none of them being identified as related to these upfitter/auxillary switches? Hopefully someone can help out..

 

 

Thanks in advance,IMG_7474.thumb.PNG.b4f67b8e87fda7f7c7887621c51f900e.PNGIMG_7474.thumb.PNG.b4f67b8e87fda7f7c7887621c51f900e.PNGIMG_7474.thumb.PNG.b4f67b8e87fda7f7c7887621c51f900e.PNGIMG_7474.thumb.PNG.b4f67b8e87fda7f7c7887621c51f900e.PNG

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, Hutchy said:

Hi Everybody,

 

I recently purchased and installed the OEM upfitter switch kit, to my 2019 GMC Sierra AT4; looks nice and clean. Anyway, I'm about to connect a device, but realized there's no pwer going to the (kit supplied) under-dash auxillary fuse/relay box? The switch do illuminate, but there's no power coming out of the leads. I'm assuming that I need to install some primary fuses, because my truck didn't originally come with the 9L7 option? I've COMBED the internet and can't really find where the main power junction is located. There was a diagram that said Fuse #94 should be one of the inputs, but the under hood distribution box only lists up to #92; with none of them being identified as related to these upfitter/auxillary switches? Hopefully someone can help out..

 

 

Thanks in advance,

 

 

You've combed everywhere but the proper places.

 

UI-Bulletin-153c.pdf (gmupfitter.com) - full install instructions for the upfitter switch kit.

 

UI-Bulletin_147b-Snow-Plow-power-provisions.pdf (gmupfitter.com) - You need p/n 84669070 to activate the 12v to the upfitters in the battery junction box.  

 

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Hutchy Enthusiast

Hutchy

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Posted
5 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

You've combed everywhere but the proper places.

 

UI-Bulletin-153c.pdf (gmupfitter.com) - full install instructions for the upfitter switch kit.

 

UI-Bulletin_147b-Snow-Plow-power-provisions.pdf (gmupfitter.com) - You need p/n 84669070 to activate the 12v to the upfitters in the battery junction box.  

 

I replied a while ago, using my mobile, but evidently did not go through; so ignore any duplicate responses, please.

 

Thank you for supplying those links. I did, however, referred to them just prior to installing the kit. The OEM kit was a complete kit and included the battery terminals, bus bars and fuse. There is confirmed power across the fuse in the battery compartment; it's just not present at the auxiliary fuse box. That's why I'm assuming there is some sort of other primary fuse that may be missing somewhere in the circuit; like a feedback loop to energize the relays? 

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Hutchy said:

I replied a while ago, using my mobile, but evidently did not go through; so ignore any duplicate responses, please.

 

Thank you for supplying those links. I did, however, referred to them just prior to installing the kit. The OEM kit was a complete kit and included the battery terminals, bus bars and fuse. There is confirmed power across the fuse in the battery compartment; it's just not present at the auxiliary fuse box. That's why I'm assuming there is some sort of other primary fuse that may be missing somewhere in the circuit; like a feedback loop to energize the relays? 

 

 

I'd be going over all your connections then.  With the battery fuse kit installed via the bus bar, it should be providing power to that 60 amp fuse.  The opposite end of that fuse is where the power wire for the aux fuse block (the one for the switches that is installed under the dash) gets attached to.  The wire that is fed through the firewall grommet.  

 

Also look at the last 2 pages in that bulletin #153 the first one I posted and check those fuses for having them hot at all times or hot with the truck on/running only.  

 

We had a tech install one for a 2500hd (same parts) and everything was hot and live after the install.  

Hutchy Enthusiast

Hutchy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

I'd be going over all your connections then.  With the battery fuse kit installed via the bus bar, it should be providing power to that 60 amp fuse.  The opposite end of that fuse is where the power wire for the aux fuse block (the one for the switches that is installed under the dash) gets attached to.  The wire that is fed through the firewall grommet.  

 

Also look at the last 2 pages in that bulletin #153 the first one I posted and check those fuses for having them hot at all times or hot with the truck on/running only.  

 

We had a tech install one for a 2500hd (same parts) and everything was hot and live after the install.  

ya, I'll try chasing it down again today. The truck is always on Acc, because I believe the kit was designed to energize upon ignition source.. But if that lead from the battery is the primary source and there's no other ancillary circuit; I can't help to wonder what those wires are for, that connect into the main harness.. I'll update later

 

Hutchy Enthusiast

Hutchy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
23 hours ago, Hutchy said:

ya, I'll try chasing it down again today. The truck is always on Acc, because I believe the kit was designed to energize upon ignition source.. But if that lead from the battery is the primary source and there's no other ancillary circuit; I can't help to wonder what those wires are for, that connect into the main harness.. I'll update later

 

Found it. Turns out the lead power wire wasn't making a proper connection; I'm assuming it wasn't seated when I inserted it into the connector and must have pushed it out just enough to look like it was plugged in, but not making contact... Thanks for taking the time to respond to the thread. 

 

Cheers,

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