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Who has experience with doing a 2019 5.3 DFM DOD DELETE using DOD delete kit and HP Tuners

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BADuplessis New Member

BADuplessis

Posted
Posted

I Have a 2019 Silverado with the L84 5.3 with 80,000 miles.

Has anyone performed a complete hardware delete with cam, lifters, head gaskets, head bolts, amongst other parts included in the kit.

The kit I am looking at is from Boost. After replacing all the parts in the kit it must be tuned to remove the software.
I started having a tick upon start-up and a miss at certain rpm upon acceleration.
#5 cylinder drops out under certain loads.
Just looking for suggestions or directions.

Thanks for the help.

Colin Zwaschka Enthusiast

Colin Zwaschka

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, BADuplessis said:

I Have a 2019 Silverado with the L84 5.3 with 80,000 miles.

Has anyone performed a complete hardware delete with cam, lifters, head gaskets, head bolts, amongst other parts included in the kit.

The kit I am looking at is from Boost. After replacing all the parts in the kit it must be tuned to remove the software.
I started having a tick upon start-up and a miss at certain rpm upon acceleration.
#5 cylinder drops out under certain loads.
Just looking for suggestions or directions.

Thanks for the help.

I'm still looking for answers myself. If it is the L84 with DFM, a cam swap may not be necessary because lobe profiles should be the same for all 8 cylinders (this was not the case for the L83s where the 4 AFM cylinders had a different profile from the non-AFM cylinders, which is why they need to be replaced when going to the LS7 style lifters). I called Texas Speed Performance to see if they had any insight, but they have not tested the DFM delete on the L84 while maintaining the stock cam. Here's a response I received from Michigan motorsports: "I agree that in theory, you shouldn't really need to replace the cam when doing a DFM delete on those newer L84 and L87 engines since all the cylinders would have the same lobes. We haven't personally tried it ourselves here though, so I can't say for sure if it is fine or not. We have asked some of our shop customers to try it as well, but so far they have all just been working on customer trucks that they can't risk having a come-back on so they have all been using the L8T camshaft on those L84 engines when doing the deletes to be safe." I'm hoping the OP has gained some insight on this and sees the activity on this thread and responds.

BADuplessis New Member

BADuplessis

Posted
Posted (edited)

HowtoDeleteorDisableActiveDynamicFuelManagementBoost.thumb.png.28784830a2e41d5bd1fb65ae7b64a516.pngActiveFuelManagementAFMDFMDODDeleteKitwTunerfor2019-2022GAMSRACING.thumb.png.e452df9f33c1dfe8629fd0297b57dde4.png

2 hours ago, Colin Zwaschka said:

I'm still looking for answers myself. If it is the L84 with DFM, a cam swap may not be necessary because lobe profiles should be the same for all 8 cylinders (this was not the case for the L83s where the 4 AFM cylinders had a different profile from the non-AFM cylinders, which is why they need to be replaced when going to the LS7 style lifters). I called Texas Speed Performance to see if they had any insight, but they have not tested the DFM delete on the L84 while maintaining the stock cam. Here's a response I received from Michigan motorsports: "I agree that in theory, you shouldn't really need to replace the cam when doing a DFM delete on those newer L84 and L87 engines since all the cylinders would have the same lobes. We haven't personally tried it ourselves here though, so I can't say for sure if it is fine or not. We have asked some of our shop customers to try it as well, but so far they have all just been working on customer trucks that they can't risk having a come-back on so they have all been using the L8T camshaft on those L84 engines when doing the deletes to be safe." I'm hoping the OP has gained some insight on this and sees the activity on this thread and responds.

I’m going with the safe route if you know what I mean.

since it’s been missing and apparently has lifter issues, I’m going to change everything in the kit .

I’m retired, have the time, and have another vehicle to depend on so I’m all good. 
I’m just trying to figure out which kit to use.

There’s a kit from boost that has everything needed including every gasket and bolt needed.

AMS racing has a delete kit that doesn’t have all of the components needed, but it includes all the tuning tools needed for the software.

I’m leaning toward the boost delete kit, and acquiring the tuning tools separately.

thanks for the input!

brett

 

 

Edited by BADuplessis
  • 4 weeks later...
stxgmt360 New Member

stxgmt360

Posted
Posted

What's up guys... Checking in to see if y'all were able to swap the cam without disconnecting the condensor? I've never done this job, but it's just a big puzzle... Step by step. 

20241106_162002.jpg

DK91105 Enthusiast

DK91105

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 11/6/2024 at 5:25 PM, stxgmt360 said:

What's up guys... Checking in to see if y'all were able to swap the cam without disconnecting the condensor? I've never done this job, but it's just a big puzzle... Step by step. 

20241106_162002.jpg

You're going to have to pull the radiator and fans for sure to get the cam out.  It's not fun.  A/c condenser and trans cooler can be left in. Separating them from the radiator is fun. 

Edited by DK91105
DK91105 Enthusiast

DK91105

Posted
Posted (edited)

OP did you get it figured out? I just received my ECU back from HP tuners. It cost me $300 for an unlock.  Once the truck is back together and I plug in hp tuners to tuners out the DFM it will be another $400 ish.   I don't believe there is any hand held tuner or other application that can unlock the ECU to truly disable to DFM.  There are things like the pulsar LT that will turn it off. I asked about that option as it's much cheaper than the HP tuners route.  Nobody had a straight answer if that would be OK or if turning it off in HP tuners was really 100% necessary.  

Edited by DK91105
Colin Zwaschka Enthusiast

Colin Zwaschka

Posted
Posted

I got my heads off last Friday and inspected the cam. The #8 exhaust lobe is marred, so I'm proceeding with a full cam swap, which adds a ton of work. On the L83s,s if you were real careful and crafty, you could remove the bolt from the oil pickup tube to remove the oil pump (necessary to remove timing chain) without removing the oil pan. The L84s don't have a bolt into the oil pickup tube, but the oil pump sits a good 1.5" lower than the top of the oil pan lip, so the pan has to be removed in order to remove the oil pump. Option 1 is to drop the front axle (remove spindles, struts, axle shafts, drop axle). Option 2 is to pull the motor. I've been chatting with a guy on Reddit doing the same thing. He has a lift and has dropped the axle. I don't have a lift and I'm going to try to pull the motor instead. While I have it out, I'll replace the rear main seal. Such fun. It has 130k on it, so new timing chain and tensioner, new oil pump... 

For those wanting to disable the system, you can honestly just unplug the solenoid wiring harness and the stock lifters will act like normal lifters, though you'll have to live with the MIL light being on until you unlock the ECM and disable the DFM/AFM. I have no idea if this improves the durability/life of the lifters, though.

  • Like 1
Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Colin Zwaschka said:

I got my heads off last Friday and inspected the cam. The #8 exhaust lobe is marred, so I'm proceeding with a full cam swap, which adds a ton of work. On the L83s,s if you were real careful and crafty, you could remove the bolt from the oil pickup tube to remove the oil pump (necessary to remove timing chain) without removing the oil pan. The L84s don't have a bolt into the oil pickup tube, but the oil pump sits a good 1.5" lower than the top of the oil pan lip, so the pan has to be removed in order to remove the oil pump. Option 1 is to drop the front axle (remove spindles, struts, axle shafts, drop axle). Option 2 is to pull the motor. I've been chatting with a guy on Reddit doing the same thing. He has a lift and has dropped the axle. I don't have a lift and I'm going to try to pull the motor instead. While I have it out, I'll replace the rear main seal. Such fun. It has 130k on it, so new timing chain and tensioner, new oil pump... 

For those wanting to disable the system, you can honestly just unplug the solenoid wiring harness and the stock lifters will act like normal lifters, though you'll have to live with the MIL light being on until you unlock the ECM and disable the DFM/AFM. I have no idea if this improves the durability/life of the lifters, though.

That might be a good idea. Unplug the harness and unlock the ECM.

DK91105 Enthusiast

DK91105

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can get the cam out without touching the oil pump or dropping the pan on a L84. I just did it, its tricky but if you are 4wd like me it saves an absolute ****** ton of time.

 

If you aren't changing the lifters you aren't saving anything. You can disable the DFM all you want but until you physically delete it there is ZERO evidence that you are helping save or increasing the longevity of anything.  You have to get rid of the crap DFM lifters. Go with genuine GM LS7 lifters and change the cam.  Texas speed has a great kit and you can option it however you want.

Edited by DK91105
Colin Zwaschka Enthusiast

Colin Zwaschka

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, DK91105 said:

You can get the cam out without touching the oil pump or dropping the pan on a L84. I just did it, its tricky but if you are 4wd like me it saves an absolute ****** ton of time.

 

If you aren't changing the lifters you aren't saving anything. You can disable the DFM all you want but until you physically delete it there is ZERO evidence that you are helping save or increasing the longevity of anything.  You have to get rid of the crap DFM lifters. Go with genuine GM LS7 lifters and change the cam.  Texas speed has a great kit and you can option it however you want.

How? Did you walk the chain off the phaser gear?

DK91105 Enthusiast

DK91105

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, Colin Zwaschka said:

How? Did you walk the chain off the phaser gear?

Yes, walked it right off. Once I found the sweet spot it wasn't even hard. 

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