Jump to content

Front licence plates

toboyca

By toboyca
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

toboyca Enthusiast

toboyca

Posted
Posted

How many here drive without their front plates?(other than those whose state/province do not have the :cheers: law)

 

For those who does (including those living in 1 plate states & provinces)... How do you cover/plug up the square holes other than leaving the bolts &/or bolt anchors in its place?

 

 

This might sound like a silly question but would love to cover them up it's an eye sore.

 

I own a 2003, Z71 Suburban(in pewter)... not black unfortunately nor does it have chrome bumpers .... None the less, it's a great truck.

 

Thanks for the ideas in advance.

MountaineerTom Senior Enthusiast

MountaineerTom

Posted
Posted

You can buy these little covers for the bolts at auto parts stores or Wal-Mart and even Lowe's. They are pretty much a plastic washer that has a cap hinged to it. You put the license plate bolt through it, screw it intot he insert in the bumper, then snap the cap onto it. I've seen them in black (which is what I have), chrome, and :cheers: gold.

Machine Enthusiast

Machine

Posted
Posted

I run all my vehicles w/out a front plate. The holes are an eye sore but having a front plate mounted is even worse. :cheers:

tmf6902 Senior Enthusiast

tmf6902

Posted
Posted

I knew a guy in va with a corvette, he just paid the ticket when he got it....it was like 25 bucks.....his thinking was....I can afford a corvette....I'm not gonna screw it up with a front plate.

The SPEEDY Senior Enthusiast

The SPEEDY

Posted
Posted

I had it on the front of my Trans Am only because I thought the holes that had been drilled in the bumper (BIG HOLES) looked worse than just having the plate on it.

 

My dad used to not have a front plate on his car, but he got pulled over 4 times in 2 months for no having it, so he has it on there now. I hate the way it looks.

SilveradoWV Senior Enthusiast

SilveradoWV

Posted
Posted
You can buy these little covers for the bolts at auto parts stores or Wal-Mart and even Lowe's. They are pretty much a plastic washer that has a cap hinged to it. You put the license plate bolt through it, screw it intot he insert in the bumper, then snap the cap onto it. I've seen them in black (which is what I have), chrome, and :mad: gold.

Those things work great for lots of stuff!! :cheers:

SnakeEyeSS Senior Enthusiast

SnakeEyeSS

Posted
Posted

I got a nift little BMW roundel on a stainless steel plate on mine. I might eventually put a "filler" in place, so there is no plate or holes, it will just complete the trim.

Kania2k1 Senior Enthusiast

Kania2k1

Posted
Posted

In NY, we have to have the front plates, but I make it a point to do as much damage to the plate as possible, without hurting the truck. Kinda like a bumpstop.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...