U-Joint Questions

[RyanbabZ71]

Ok 2000 Chevy Z71 Ext Cab a little over 46K miles

 

I have this squeak/tick (more of a tick) noise that is coming from the rear (as stated in a previous post) . The noise goes faster as you go faster It may get a little louder but not that much. Today I got under the truck and checked the U Joints.

 

1. How do you check for play exactly? I just put my hand on it (where it is bolted together) and shook it. Seemed like the rear one was alright and the front one was slightly loose?

 

Then I went out and drove it (I sat in the bed). The noise was coming from the rear drivers side wheel. However when I listened between the cab and bed it sounded like it was coming from under the truck. It was louder under the truck. Can the noise be translated into one of the rear wheels??? This seems odd.

 

2. What trucks have the two piece prop shafts???

 

3. Does this sound like a bad U Joint?

 

4. What tools do I need? The manual states a bearing separator, and spacer remover. Are these necessary?

 

Thanks for your help this is driving me crazy

[5088]

If you think it's coming from the wheel, check your rear disc brake pads. Otherwise your U-joint might be partially seized (thus it won't be loose and wobble in your hand) pull the shaft and just grab the u joints and move them in all different directions, they should move freely (keep this in mind when you put the new ones in too) with no binding. Other U-joint failure is they loosen up; this should also be easy to diagnose, I'd just lift the back of the truck up and crawl under & give the driveshaft a few side to side twists & put your hand on each joint. You'll be able to tell if it's loose.

 

Not sure if your truck has the nylon type retainers or not (if you don't see any C-clips they are). Torch them out, the heat will burn the nylon out & you'll be able to pull out the rest of the joint. Otherwise pull the c clips & I use a vise & a couple sockets and just press it apart, then I press the new one in. You're gonna need four hands so get a 6 pack and a friend to help you, just be sure the new ones move freely when you get them in. New ones will have c-clip retainers & probably a grease fitting to install.

 

No worries man, they aren't that bad. And my opinion, don't buy the super duty unbreakable U joints. I'd rather bust a $10 U joint than the axle.

[Wingnut]

Just a couple of notes on the u-joint install. You don't need a "real" torch to get the nylon ones out. I used one of the little torches that you attach to a Coleman camping type propane/butane bottle. Just heat them up until it all spews out of the hole. Just make sure you're wearing safety goggles, as it can pop pretty far, and a glob of flaming plastic goo wouldn't do the cornea much good.

 

And you don't have to buy c-clip replacement u-joints, I have 4 brand new nylon type ones on the shelf right now. I don't know which is better, but it's probably not all that big of a difference.

 

Not a hard job though. I've done it alone, and without a vice, or press of any kind. Just sockets, a hammer, and a little finesse.

[sonjaab]

Ryan..........Yup......its time for new u-joints !

 

You prob. don't have a 2 piece shaft. A quick lookie will tell.

Remember the fellas at the "other" site complaining about the

2 piece driveshaft vibration/wobble? Then the dealer would "cob/cut" out the center piece for the carrier bearing and install a 1 piece shaft.

 

Just drop yours out and send to the local driveshaft/machine shop

and let them do the dirty work !

 

These new shafts are a PIA to to get the joint out of if you don't know

the "tricks" like the other fellas are saying.

A press/flame wrench is real handy on these buggers !

 

Save your fingers and temper ! If ya beat the shaft too hard and poss.

knock it outta balance/bend it etc. A new one is quite spendy!

 

I smoked a few snowplowing !!!!!! .................geo

[karld]

I have a 99 2wd and my front u-joint was shot at 50k. I did mine myself with a large c-clamp and appropriate sized sockets. It wasn't a bad job at all and the parts were only arond $39. The new ones should last the rest of the life of your truck

[RyanbabZ71]

Here us what I went with

 

Premium Precision U-Joint

 

 

Premium Precision Universal Joints are high quality engineered parts made in the U.S.A.

These durable parts offer several features and benefits:

 

Radial design bearing cups allow for 360 degrees of lubricant distribution

Superior quality seals prevent leaks and contamination

Precision ground needle bearings maximize load carrying capabilities

Cold formed and case hardened bearing cups

Grease fitting in the cross body, which allows for easy maintenance

Carburized heat treated high strength steel crosses maximize the part life

 

Do I need a strap kit for the rear? Also what type of grease should be used? Is the Mobil 1 (redish stuff) chassis lube alright to use? How much grease needs to go in? Should I grease it before or after it goes in?

[5088]

As long as it's considered a replacement part for the original equipment piece, you won't need a strap kit. Just reuse the bolts and retainers that are on the old one.

 

I use Mystic Jt-8 grease or something like that (any chassis grease is fine, use your personal preference). I buy it at Farm & Fleet. Same stuff I use on the front suspension, grease the U-joints when you do your oil changes.

 

Definitely grease it after it goes in, it'll be messy & a pain in the ass to do it before. Only exception may be if you need a little grease to stick the needle rollers in the cups in place so they don't fall out.

 

Quantity? I'd guess only a few shots from the grease gun would do it, I'd guess tops 4 shots new and then probably only 2 when servicing during the oil changes.

 

Most important part of the whole job is make sure the new U-joints don't bind!

[RyanbabZ71]

I found this last night

 

If the Zerk is on a U - joint, then replace the joint. Dry joints wear out fast. The needle bearings literally get ground into dust.

NEVER GREASE A U - JOINT WITH CHASSIS GREASE

U - Joints have needle Bearings inside them. They need to be greased with wheel bearing grease. I only use Extreme Pressure Waterproof Wheel Bearing grease on my U- Joints, and front end parts. It's the best you can do, even if the grease is more expensive than typical chassis grease.

 

 

Also there is already some grease on the needle bearings holding them in

 

I have a tube of superlube synthetic grease. It says it is good for U joints so all I need now is a new grease gun

[RyanbabZ71]

What size vice is needed to do the job? My dad is worried ours wont work. I will probably call a local machine shop as a backup in case

[Wingnut]

You can do it with the right size sockets and/or a c-clamp. That's how I did it the first time, and they lasted 100k miles until I sold that truck.

 

Any bench vise should do the trick if you're careful to make sure that they go in straight.

[sonjaab]

RYAN.........Drop it off at the machine shop!

 

Last year when I popped out my shaft.......Shop charged under $100

labor, joints, tax incl.. Had it done by the time I had 2 beers at the pub

next door !

Happened on a Sat. too ! Dealer closed........GM did refund the $$ tho.!

 

But , it was cold and snowy Feb. day!............. ..........geo

[RyanbabZ71]

got it done. we have 2 vise and neither would come out far enough. I was almost SOL until I called my gf and her dad had one. Helpful tip if you are using sockets it the vise has to come out (extend) about 7 inches. Oh yea the machine shop was closed too but me and my dad got them done. Time will tell how good of a job we did

[snoman]

I found this last night

 

If the Zerk is on a U - joint, then replace the joint. Dry joints wear out fast. The needle bearings literally get ground into dust.

NEVER GREASE A U - JOINT WITH CHASSIS GREASE

U - Joints have needle Bearings inside them. They need to be greased with wheel bearing grease. I only use Extreme Pressure Waterproof Wheel Bearing grease on my U- Joints, and front end parts. It's the best you can do, even if the grease is more expensive than typical chassis grease.

 

 

Also there is already some grease on the needle bearings holding them in

 

I have a tube of superlube synthetic grease. It says it is good for U joints so all I need now is a new grease gun

You just do not want to use Moly grease (black grease) as it does not get along with neddle bearings to good. As long as it is not moly based you are fine generally.

[gnutruk]

Here us what I went with

 

Premium Precision U-Joint

 

 

Premium Precision Universal Joints are high quality engineered parts made in the U.S.A.

These durable parts offer several features and benefits:

 

Radial design bearing cups allow for 360 degrees of lubricant distribution

Superior quality seals prevent leaks and contamination

Precision ground needle bearings maximize load carrying capabilities

Cold formed and case hardened bearing cups

Grease fitting in the cross body, which allows for easy maintenance

Carburized heat treated high strength steel crosses maximize the part life

 

Do I need a strap kit for the rear? Also what type of grease should be used? Is the Mobil 1 (redish stuff) chassis lube alright to use? How much grease needs to go in? Should I grease it before or after it goes in?

Ryanbab :

 

Thinking of doing this myself. Where did you buy the new u-joints? Local, or on the net?

 

TIA

 

gnutruk

[RyanbabZ71]

I bought them from a local auto parts store. The name is van senus. The front joint was like $11 and the rear was like $21