Jump to content

Went to Dealer


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am at 35,9?? miles on my '00 Silverado. I brought it in for some warranty work. I had the two brake recalls done, they lubed the driveshaft, replaced the steering shaft, and resurfaced the rotors. Since I got it back my steering wheel shake at 50-60 MPH has returned. I had my problem solved before by having my wheels and tires rebalanced a couple times and it finally went away. Now it is back though and I don't know why. I also still have a slight shimmer when I hit the brakes. Why am I having so much trouble with this truck? Don't get me wrong, I still think it is the best truck on the market today, but I've never had so many problems with past GM vehicles.

Side question for Mountaineer Tom. On your leafs in the rear, that rubber thing you had put on. Is there a part # or something for that? My dealer says he hasn't seen anything like that before.

One more thing. I have a noise from the motor that sounds like a lifter clicking. It comes and goes periodically. GM still has no fix for it, and they say as of now that it is normal. Anyone else have this?

Thanks, and sorry so long.

Later

Posted
Quote: from Roofer on 1:38 pm on May 19, 2001

Side question for Mountaineer Tom. On your leafs in the rear, that rubber thing you had put on. Is there a part # or something for that? My dealer says he hasn't seen anything like that before.

Roofer,

The part number is 15604174.  I think they are ?.22 each (?.93 at GMpartsdirect,com), but should be covered under warranty.  Mine were.

Hope this helps.

(Edited by MountaineerTom 99Z71 at 3:14 pm on May 20, 2001)

Posted

Hey Roofer, i just wanted to let you know that even if you go over 36k, your not out of luck. Gov regualtions require that problems already addressed during the warrenty , still be fixed without charge after the warrenty. We had a tranny problem with our camaro during the warrenty, and at 47k the tranny went poof! Fourtunatly, since is was "pre-existing", it was fixed under "warrenty".  Also all service bulitains are accepted as "pre-existing" conditions.

Hope this helps if you go over 36k, before you get those problems fixed. :)

Posted

Thanks guys. Gonna see if I can get some things fixed. Hard to get to the dealer though, work has really picked up and also workin' hard on getting my house. Thanks for the replies.

Posted

I always had trouble fitting dealer visits into my schedule as well.  It never seems convenient, unless you rent a car while there and just take the hit for the $$$.

As for the front end, it sounds like they didn't do a very good job turning your rotors, or they didn't pre-load the front wheel bearings correctly when the re-installed the turned rotors.  Why did they turn the rotors?  Normally that's not required unless they are warped or scored.  If the brake pads are replaced regularly the rotors shouldn't require resurfacing so soon.  I have even seen a tech bulletin from GM stating NOT to surface rotors unless they were warped, scored, or otherwise damaged, but I forget what years or vehicles it covered.

Jeff

Posted

The rotors were warped. I had pulsating in my brakes. It is mostly gone now, but still there. Hopefully I will get back in there soon.

Posted

Oh yeah, and if the guy didn't get the rotors setup properly on the brake lathe they would have excessive runout, which would cause what you describe.  Your truck has floating calipers, so it's not as noticeable as with fixed calipers like my Corvette, but if the runout is bad enough it will cause problems even with floating calipers.

If they want to turn them again because they screwed up try to push for new replacements.  Every time they turn them the material loss leads to less heat dissipated, faster warping, etc. not to mention the fact that they can only be turned a few times before they are trash...like 2-3 times max normally.

Jeff

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 496 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...