Windshield and rear window removal/installation

[bigjames4xl]

Can anyone give me any info on removing and replacing the front windshield and back glass?

 

Are they the kind where the adhesive/sealer has to be cut and then reset into the butyl rubber strip?

[PFarkas]

Can anyone give me any info on removing and replacing the front windshield and back glass?

 

Are they the kind where the adhesive/sealer has to be cut and then reset into the butyl rubber strip?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

No butyl rubber on windshields when the vehicle has an airbag - the system depends on the windshield being VERY firmly attached to operate properly (pronounce that "save your life"), and butyl rubber doesn't make it.

 

These windshields are attached with a urethane. I've used SikaFlex and it works well. I would budget two tubes for the windshield and one and a half for the rear. Four tubes should do the job. Have some prepsol or similar solvent/thinner and plenty of rags on hand for cleanup.

 

Unless you have special tools, the procedure is to work a piece of "piano wire" from the inside of the cab, through the OE urethane on the windshield perimeter, to the outside of the cab. Once you have a piece of wire through, you can cut the urethane with the wire by sawing it along the perimeter of the glass.

 

If you have a long wire, this can be a one man job, but it's easier with two.

 

The windshield trim, pillar molding and wiper cowl should be removed prior to starting the procedure. Care must be exercised to avoid cutting the headliner and marring the paint and dash. Using a razor knife to cut through as much of the urethane as you can prior to using the wire will make the job less difficult.

 

Same deal with the back glass, except that it's more difficult.

 

After replacing the back glass, the vehicle should not be driven for at least four hours. Airflow tends to create a low pressure area behind the cab and will draw the glass away from the cab.

 

Regardless of whether or not you want to remove the existing glass intact, if you're removing it, it should be cut out. Breaking it out makes a real mess. Cleaning up the mess takes more time than doing it correctly, and the existing urethane must be removed anyway prior to installing the new glass.

 

If you want to remove the glass intact and re-install it, exercise great care in removing it, it's not cheap.

 

I'd recommend having a glass shop do the work.

[SteveCZ]

Ummm, yeah what he said.....

 

Doesn't your insurance have glass coverage for the windshield??

 

Doesn't all insurance have full glass coverage????

 

[bigjames4xl]

Thanks guys!

 

No insurance at all!

 

This is for a "project daily driver" that I got real cheap and I'm fixing it up to replace my 307,000 mile S10 Blazer daily driver! This one is a low milage(164,000)93 GMC extended cab truck. The front windshield is cracked and the rear window is loose at the bottom because something in the bed hit the cab just below the window and pushed in the metal. I can easily repair the damage under the window if I take it out so I can straighten it then replace it, heck, I might even get it straight with it in place! So thanks for setting me straight on which adhesive to use!

 

I found a local glass man that will replace the front windshield for $175 so unless I get a deal on a used one somewhere I'll let him install the front windshield and maybe pay him a little extra for removing the back glass so I can repair it.

 

Here's a few pictures of project "Lefty"

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex...1&a=31386243&f=

[PFarkas]

I can easily repair the damage under the window if I take it out so I can straighten it then replace it, heck, I might even get it straight with it in place! So thanks for setting me straight on which adhesive to use!

 

I found a local glass man that will replace the front windshield for $175 so unless I get a deal on a used one somewhere I'll let him install the front windshield and maybe pay him a little extra for removing the back glass so I can repair it.

 

Most glass shops will not guarantee their ability to remove a glass intact - if you have them remove it before you do the body work, be prepared to replace it.

 

Having said that, I still think you'd be happier with the end result if you removed the rear glass prior to doing the repair work, even if it means getting new glass. If you end up needing to replace the glass you could upgrade to a sliding window and then you could put 8 foot lumber in that short bed without having to run with the tailgate down.

 

If you're planning on re-installing the rear glass yourself, see if you can get some tubes of urethane from the glass shop when they're replacing the windshield. $175 is a pretty fair price. If you'd like, I can send you some pictures in a couple of weeks of how you should shape the urethane bead when you're installing the glass.

[bigjames4xl]

Thanks PF!

 

I understand about removing the rear window!

 

Because of the subtle nature of the damage I'm going to give straightening it a shot without removing it but I will take it out if I can't make a proper job of it. There's about 60% of the glass not making contact along the bottom of the glass where the cab is bent. There are no creases in the bend, it's a slight bow with a max deviation from the window of 1/2". I think I can carefully push it back in place with a port-a-power then reseal it.

 

I may take a few pictures later.