Shift Kit

pritch55 · September 20, 2004

I'm getting ready to order a shift kit from KDS and was wondering what other parts I may also want to replace. There are some accumulators but I'm not sure which what I would need.

KDS Accumulators and Springs

Thanks,

-Brandon

GMCSierra04 · September 20, 2004

Putting a stronger spring behind the accumulator vs a stock spring will give you a firmer shift becasue the main purpose of the accumulators is to dampen the applied pressure to the pistons so you get nice, smooth shifts. Im not too familar with the 4L60E or the 7004-R so I wouldn't know all the tricks to "hop" it up but that 1/2 spring will giove you a firmer 1 to 2 shift. Check out some different shift kits and see what they come with and that should give ya some ideas. Good luck.

pritch55 · September 20, 2004

Putting a stronger spring behind the accumulator vs a stock spring will give you a firmer shift becasue the main purpose of the accumulators is to dampen the applied pressure to the pistons so you get nice, smooth shifts. Im not too familar with the 4L60E or the 7004-R so I wouldn't know all the tricks to "hop" it up but that 1/2 spring will giove you a firmer 1 to 2 shift. Check out some different shift kits and see what they come with and that should give ya some ideas. Good luck.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've already decided on the TransGo High Performance Shift Kit with corvette servo, I'm just not sure what accumulator pistons should be replced. I have tried contacting KDS by phone but there i no response.

Thanks,

-Brandon

budhayes3 · September 21, 2004

I'm going to be doing basically the same thing, but with a B&M shift improver kit. I got the Corvette servo and just ordered 2 accumulator pistons that are aluminum as opposed to the factory plastic ones. Here's a link from LS1tech: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216423 I ordered the two bottom ones a few days ago, hope to get them (and the time to install them) soon. Good luck, let us know how the install goes and how you like the results!

99Silver6.0 · September 21, 2004

When you do the TG kit there are a few other parts that need to be dumped. There are sooooooo many shortcomings in teh 4L60E!

Very very important info for a rock solid 4L60.

FIRST, THIS GIVES YOU A VERY DETAILED IDEA OF HOW TO BUILD A 4L60E TO TAKE SOME SERIOUS ABUSE. THIS IS INFO I HAVE COLELCTED, READ, RESEARCHED, AND PIECED TOGETHER INORDER TO FIND THE BEST POSSIBLE SOLUTION FOR THE 4L60E. I TAKE NO LIABILITY IN WHAT IS HERE, BUT IT GIVES AN OVERVIEW OF WHAT IS INCLUDED. Do not go and buy parts until you speak with a good reliable transmission builder. That way when it gets built, you and (s)he will know what to expect and how it will perform. Plan your attack, you wouldn't want to get stuck with incrorrect parts would you???

This is all the most up-to-date stuff I have for this unit, it changes a bit but this is about all I have come up with.

THESE ARE JUST A FEW BASICS:

1 - A quality paper and rubber kit, be sure to use new bushings as well as bearings too

2 - Take up the end play, and verify the clutch pack clearances. End play and slop helps kill transmissions almost as quick as heat does.

3 - Throw away the "load release" springs out of the 3-4 clutch pack.

4 - Use high quality frictions and steels. Alto Red Eagles, Raybestos Blue Plates, Borg Warner Tans.

5 - Toss check ball from: input shaft, No 5, and No 3.

6 - Block the 4th accumulator

7 - Ditch the servo check ball and capsule from case, install a cup plug in place.

8 - Check 2-4 band clearance

9 - BIG transmission fluid cooler

Sonnax HD 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator springs - Helps with the 1-2 upshift and 3-4 upshift.

Sonnax Pinless Aluminum Forward Accumulator - Stock can be plastic, this is pinless

Sonnax Pinless Aluminum 1-2, 3-4 Acuumulator - Stock is usually plastic, cracks, loses pressure.

Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve - Limits 3-2 downshift tieup/burning

Sonnax Fwd/Rev Abuse Bore Plug - Prevents burning of the clutch packs and band

Sonnax TCC Lockup Conversion - Makes TCC Lockup an ON/OFF setup, costly for just yourself but works well. If not, get the better apply valve from Sonnax or TransGo (both have the heavier spring also).

Clutches and Band:

2-4 Band - Black Kevlar Lined 2-4 Band OR Kevlar (Std) 2-4 Band OR Alto 2-4 Band (Alto and Std Kevlar requires wider input drum) - greater holding capacity, less likely to break off band anchor than OE, anchor on the Altos are 60% greater. Oversized Kevlar and Alto are 3/8 wider that stock band. Most late hardened input drums from TDE are ready for the wider band. The standard band is still wider than pretty much all other transmissions so it's not a necessity. I'd run a Red Alto one...Kevlar likes to burn and you're not going to give up a lot on the shifts with the Alto band.

3-4 Clutch Pack - This is highly debated. 6 Blue Plates, 8 BW Tans, 13 in the Z Pac, 9 Alto, etc. Whatever you choose, I'd try to stick with the OE thickness steels to resist heat. That usually limits you to 8 clutches, so pick your poison there.

Low/Reverse and Forward - You don't need anything exotic here as these are only applied from very slow speeds or in a stopped position. Again, pick what you like.

HARD PARTS:

29 Element Foreward Input Sprag - far better in HO applications

13 Vane Pump Conversion Kit - extra fluid flow at higher RPMs

Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Front Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal

Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Rear Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal

Heavy Duty Reaction Carrier Shaft - eliminates need for thrust washers, works in conjunction with the Sun Gear Shell

Heavy Duty Reaction Sun Gear Shell - limits cracking and splitting on bearing area

Heavy Duty Input Shaft and Drum - limits stress cracks on drum, limits broken shaft

Heavy Duty Output Shaft - limits broken shafts on high RPM kickdowns

TransGo shift kit - .500 boost valve, HO Pump Spring, 1-2 accum spring, fixes problems like...3-4 burnup, 2-3 overlap, delay bangs, poor 3-2 kickdown, etc. PSK or HD2 kits.

Superior Intermediate Super Servo - greater band holding power, much better 2-3 shifts, excellent 1-2 shifts, 35% more apply than 'Vette servo

Superior Overdrive Super Servo - greater holding power in 4th, much better 3-4 shifts, 50% more apply than OE part, comes with billet cover too

TransGo Vac Modulated Shift Setup - This uses a Vac Operated shift modulator that replaces the EPC (pressure solenoid) from a Ford C4 transmission to control shifts. I assume high vac is tamer shifts and low vac is firmer shifts. It's a pretty trick setup and runs about $70 more, I'm not totally convinced of it's necessity or not, but it will keep line pressure constant under high RPM/high loads...which is good. It takes the PCM out of the loop for that. I may try one in the future when my 4L60E goes south.

Now, everyone should have a great idea of what needs to be included in their transmission. I also have a big write up on torque converters, that can be posted up if need be. Obviously if you aren't make 650HP, you don't need an insane build like this whereby a few pieces can be deleted. But as I say, Do it right the first time. No sense on doing something halfway then wishing you had done something else. If you are already spending the money, a few $100 more won't break the bank.

Any good rebuild kit should have most of these parts, the specific parts needed will be per kit. KDSperformance.com stocks tons of parts as does Transmission Center, little parts come from Transmissionpartsusa.com. Anything else a trans shop should be able to get. The weakest part is the Reaction Sun Gear Shell, I am unsure if anyone makes a forged/billet one...but if someone does and you are pushing insane amounts of power, get it.

Once you have that stuff done, then it comes down to the builder. Some like tight clearances for less slop, others like looser for less drag. Really depends. I'd shoot for the medium to tight on them. I haven't built one to have it blow up so I can't say what would work better in what scenario. Tight may be better for HO apps and looser for towing.

Additionally, many hard parts can be cryogenically treated and stress relieved to increase strength and duraibility...sure it costs more but when you are pushing the limits of the 4L60E you need everything done. Once your internals are fully prepped to resist breaking, I begin to see the 3-4 pack burn up...I believe mainly due to insufficient fluid flow and incorrect clearances mostly. I have noticed that you can run even thinner steels and run thinner clutches in the 3-4 and forward gear to be able add more holding power BUT then you induce more heat. I am unsure of any additional holding power with the thinner frictions and steels as if you add too many thin ones you may lose the additional holding power by the abundance of the frictions and steels in the pack. Additional clutches in the 3-4 may require machining to fit also.

Finally super hard shifts are bad even on the best internals. Just go with a fully installed TransGo, NO washers in the 1-2 accumulator, and both billet servos for an excellent shifting as well as not overly hard trans. Keep feed holes smaller to resist "banging" or too firm of shifts also.

pritch55 · September 21, 2004

I'm going to be doing basically the same thing, but with a B&M shift improver kit. I got the Corvette servo and just ordered 2 accumulator pistons that are aluminum as opposed to the factory plastic ones. Here's a link from LS1tech: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216423 I ordered the two bottom ones a few days ago, hope to get them (and the time to install them) soon. Good luck, let us know how the install goes and how you like the results!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Can you please let me know what version of each parts is the best one to get. An example would be the complete kit or the piston and steel balls only for the forward accumulator piston kit. Also can you please let meknow how much each part was shipped?

Thanks,

-Brandon

citydriver · September 21, 2004

I just put the TransGo kit and Vette servo in my '95 earlier this year.... word of advice....if you are installing this yourself...watch the video for reference then THROW IT AWAY!!!!!! Follow the printed instruction sheets only..

While I was at it I ordered a deep cast aluminum pan and external tranny filter kit from Summit and installed them at the same time...I didnt bother replacing the other servos cause they were in fine shape,however I did get a seal kit and replaced the seals around them along with the springs supplied by TransGo....When you do the Pressure regulater mod,make sure you install the snap ring with the flat side facing DOWN!

Almost 5K miles on the truck since I did the work and I've been happy with it.....

shifts pretty darn good for a tranny with 163K miles on it

If/when it blows I'l do a complete rebuild on it using alot of the parts 99Silver5.3 listed, but for now, I'll see how many miles I can rack up on it

budhayes3 · September 22, 2004

I'm going to be doing basically the same thing, but with a B&M shift improver kit. I got the Corvette servo and just ordered 2 accumulator pistons that are aluminum as opposed to the factory plastic ones. Here's a link from LS1tech: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216423 I ordered the two bottom ones a few days ago, hope to get them (and the time to install them) soon. Good luck, let us know how the install goes and how you like the results!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Can you please let me know what version of each parts is the best one to get. An example would be the complete kit or the piston and steel balls only for the forward accumulator piston kit. Also can you please let meknow how much each part was shipped?

Thanks,

-Brandon

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I ordered the complete kits, they haven't gotten here yet. The whole deal is less than $30 shipped. I have to examine them when I get them to see if they are compatable with the B&M shift improver kit that I'm going to install.

Mule · September 23, 2004

I have 105,000 miles on my Trans Go shift kit, and it still shifts like new. I put it in one week after buying the truck new. Switched to synthetic ATF also after about 5000 miles.

pritch55 · October 16, 2004

Well I installed the transgo and corvette servo and now I have a clunk under light throttle in the 2-3 shift, and it also is there on some of the downshifts from 3-2, the clunk isn't there all of the time. Has anyone experienced this. I have been told that it could be the slip yoke or that 3rd gear is applying before 2nd gear is released. I may have to take it in to see where the cluink is comming from.

Thanks,

-Brandon

pritch55 · October 18, 2004

I called Lyndon (Westers) and he said he would be able to reprogram my tune in order to correct this.

A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Explanation

File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle

Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042A

Date: December, 2002

INFORMATION

Subject:

Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise

Models:

2003 and Prior Light Duty Trucks

with 4L60E or 4L65E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2003 model year as well as information about 3-2 downshift Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.

During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.

This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.