CV Shafts?

042500HD · October 11, 2004

I have a 04 2500hd and was wondering if i ever break a cv when im offroad. How hard is it going to be to replace? Have any of yall done it yet? I know there not that strong and if you get the truck in a bind offroad they usually break. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mighty HD · October 12, 2004

The cv joints in the HD is a hell of a lot better than what was in my ZR2.

They arent hard to change with the proper tools. If it breaks while 4x4'ing you're better off just pulling it out in the field.

You'll need an impact gun for sure to get the nut off of the hub/knuckle that holds the cv joint in, a sledge hammer, plenty of sockets, C-clamp, 2 jacks at least, jackstands, pry bars, and a lot of cuss words...lol

Honest: with the correct tools its not too bad...

042500HD · October 12, 2004

So are you saying they are super strong or just decent? Just asking before i take the ole girl out and wheel her.

1BADHD · October 12, 2004

So are you saying they are super strong or just decent? Just asking before i take the ole girl out and wheel her.

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They are strong when in the stock state. If you have bigger meats like I do. Or have cranked them up, like I have, they become weaker. Not saying they are gonna shell the first time you hit the pits by any means. They are just a little weaker. I had to replace one CV for a leaky boot in 66,000 miles. So they arent all that bad.

Chev8.1 · October 18, 2004

Well I have done it twice. driver-side . A reman will cost about $230 that with core charge. Don't go to dealership it cost about $595. So far I have had good luck with the ones from NAPA.

tools needed:

Breaker bar

Axle nut socket(36mm I think, just bought the one that fit)

15mm socket (inner cv flange bolts)

1/2" socket(sway bar link)

7/8"socket (lug nuts)

torgue wrench(for installation)

couple of flat head srcewdrivers

hammer and dead blow.

long punch or extenions

Instructions:

Jack up, use jack-stands

remove wheel

remove nut dust cover with flat head and hammer

remove sway bar connecting rod(between a-arm and sway bar)

rremove outer axle nut(the big one)

remove six 15mm bolts from inner CV flange, use 4x4 to hold in place while untighten, put into 2wd for rotate wheel to get to other bolts then put into 4x4 and untighten the rest and remove.

drop inner joint(easy it usually the one that explodes) down and towards the front.

tap use either hammer or dead-blow the splined shaft on the outer joint to remove joint from wheel hub.

once it starts to go it should go pretty easy, actaully side and fall out. use punch or socket extension to get rest of the way.

installation:

Important before installing make sure to measure lenght of CV alxe assmebly to make sure that it is right lenght. I have got short ones. don't how or why. Also you should get new axle nut with new joint. If not take it back. Buy a good one

Reverse removal procedure

Torque spec(important) as not to cause damage to wheel hub

outer Axle nut 155ftbls

inner flange bolts 58ftbls

sway bar link bolts 81inchlbs

Making them last.

Keep them in their operating range. They are very strong if kept there. Cranked T-bars are the cause of mine to be destoryed.

Hope this help, just remember to verify socket sizes, it been about 4 months for me, also maybe different on newer models.

CT