Jump to content

Want to add sub to '04 Suburban w/Bose


dmeals

Recommended Posts

Posted

I would like to add a sub to my '04 Suburban. Have bose speakers but no sub. There appears to be a sub cut-out in the rear panel, drivers side. I suspect this is where a optional factory sub was to be located. Any suggestions appreciated!

Posted
I would like to add a sub to my '04 Suburban.  Have bose speakers but no sub.  There appears to be a sub cut-out in the rear panel, drivers side.  I suspect this is where a optional factory sub was to be located.  Any suggestions appreciated!

 

 

 

 

 

Not even sure I have a sub??? How can I determine?

Posted
I would like to add a sub to my '04 Suburban.  Have bose speakers but no sub.  There appears to be a sub cut-out in the rear panel, drivers side.  I suspect this is where a optional factory sub was to be located.  Any suggestions appreciated!

 

 

 

 

 

Not even sure I have a sub??? How can I determine?

 

 

 

 

 

I thought ALL '04s with the Bose Stereo has a Subwoofer under the center console? However, if you didn't have the center console, then there would be no place for a Subwoofer. Do you have a center console?

Posted

If you look under the dash where the center console meets the dash (this is with your head up under the dash) you can just see the back of the sub. It is aimed straight back towards the center console. The AMP for the sub is under the storage bin of the center console.

 

If you have the Sub then you can use the AOEM-GM24 from Pac Audio to plug into the wiring harness at the existing amp. This will give you the RCA's you need to hook up an additional amp and doesn't affect your factory system. I just hooked up an Infinity basslink sub last night in my 04 SS. Works fine.

 

COZWV

 

here is a web site showing the install with pics.

 

Sub install

 

I may take a pic of where the sub is today. I still have to put my console back together after I hide the wires for the basslink.

Posted

Thanks. Located the sub in the front of the console. Want to install a sub in the rear panel just in front of the drivers side rear door. This panel is molded with a fake looking speaker in the panel. Guess this may be the cut-out for earlier versions prior to mounting the sub up front. Feel like a powered sub in the rear would definately give me a little more thump. Suggestions appreciated.

Posted
The amp in the console powers the whole system correct?, not just the sub?

 

 

 

 

Well I do know if you disconnect the wiring harness at the sub you lose all the sound! So I guess it does power the whole thing.

Posted

You could use a LOC at the factory sub and then run rca's back to your new amp/powered sub.

A LOC is a line output converter that will give you a set of rca preouts to feed your new amp.

They are available at all audio shops for about $20.

Posted
Anyone happen to know if there is a gain control on the amp anywhere ?

 

 

 

There is no gain control on the amp. The system is controlled by the Bose amp. The amp should have a microphone in the driver area that adjusts volume and sound curves according to the interior sound levels. I have a 2004 that sounded weak and muddy. I found a Cadillac service center that was familiar with Bose setups in GM vehicles. He connected my Yukon to a computer and recalibrated the sound space for the vehicle. This helped but the sub was still weak. He found that the mic in the headliner had a pinched / shorted wire. The mic cable was repaired and the system recalibrated. The system sounds clearer and with the bass turned up it is decent. Aftermarket would be best but the Bose sub will do as well as any 75 watt 8" on the market.

 

If you change your factory radio, you will need to keep the factory unit under the passenger seat with a extension cable or buy a adapter from PAC. You will loose all warning tones for your vehicle without the adapter or the factory radio connected to the wiring harness. This includes the low fuel, tire pressure warning, low traction, door ajar, key reminder... so on.

 

I would rather buy a PAC Audio adapter than try splicing into the wiring. The Bose system alters the sound signals to match their speakers. The radio and steering wheel controls are all on the Data Bus that runs all 4 computers on the Yukon / Tahoe vehicles. If you mess with the data bus the computer will fault, and when you take it in the dealer will know...

 

I have to take the truck back soon. The cable in the headliner is loose and is vibrating / moving above the headliner now, but that is what warranties are for.

Posted

Thanks for the in depth reply. It may have seemed like a silly question but what amp has no gain on it. It does kinda figure though. They don't want the interior to rattle loose before the warranty is up.

 

I have the PAC adapter coming and will just add my 8" Bazooka.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...