Jump to content

I have a couple questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 92 full size blazer.I went with a 3" body lift for now and some 33's.I had to pull a couple of different trailers this weekend and i noticed that the turning radius is probably equal to or worse than a bus,whats the deal?Also when im riding down the road and theres like lines and other blemishes on the road my car just pulls in every which direction,its like a non stop battle while driving.The tires i have on there are the Interco trxus.They are pretty worn,actually 2 need to be replaced for sure but they are on the rear.Any help with either of my two situations would be greatly appreciated.Im new to whole lift and bigger tire thing so bare with me.thanks

Posted
I have a 92 full size blazer.I went with a 3" body lift for now and some 33's.I had to pull a couple of different trailers this weekend and i noticed that the turning radius is probably equal to or worse than a bus,whats the deal?Also when im riding down the road and theres like lines and other blemishes on the road my car just pulls in every which direction,its like a non stop battle while driving.The tires i have on there are the Interco trxus.They are pretty worn,actually 2 need to be replaced for sure but they are on the rear.Any help with either of my two situations would be greatly appreciated.Im new to whole lift and bigger tire thing so bare with me.thanks

 

 

 

 

I can't comment on the turning radius but I think you should check your front end components including your steering parts up front and even though your worn tires are on the rear they can still contribute to bad road control and if your front tires are getting close to wearing out you should replace all four. :D

Posted

Thanks for the help guys.I talked to the guy that did my lift today and he said he has had people say that the interco trxus seem to wander.As far as the turning radius go's i think the truck turns pretty good left but not as tight to the right,so maybe my pitmen arm isn"t adjusted right.(i think thats the right arm)

Posted

Well...Seeing as how you really can't adjust the idler arm... Unless you have a really big hammer.:confused:

 

:cheers:

 

 

 

Seriously though...The turning radius on these trucks really isn't all that great to begin with. The only reason it's decent is because of the short wheelbase.

 

If the wheels on my '92 turned as far as the wheels on my '02...Now that would be pimp.

 

Quadrasteer on the Blazer would be worthy of a circus car...A 4 foot turning radius would be cool. :crazy:

Posted

Come to think of it...i had a similar problem on my Ford (yeah, I know :cheers: ). It turned on on a dime to the left, but semi's made tighter right hand turns. I don't know about your pitman, but mine had a keyway to that didn't allow adjustment. Because my steering gearbox was all cracked and bent, I took a leap thinking that a couple gears had skipped causing the offset in steering.

Posted

Oh...And if you are in need of a pitman arm for that rig, let me know.

 

I happen to have a brand new heavy duty Moog pitman arm laying on a shelf that I may be coerced into parting with.

Posted

Well i discovered that it turns left very well and then when you turn to the right it sucks.So guess i can get it adjusted.Not to get off topic but i just found out i have this little light, its attached to a wire and the wire is kept in a little box.And on the box is a real.I can take the light all the way to the back of the truck.When im finished i just use the real and real the line in.I thought that was pretty neat and wondered if other vehicles have this aswell or is it aftermarket.

Posted

Yeah, that little light is awesome. They only put it on for a few years, and the brand new trucks don't have a light at all under the hood. :cheers:

 

If I do decide to sell my Blazer, I'll be tempted to pull that sucker out of there.

Posted

That light sounds cool. Before Wingnut's response, if figured it had to be aftermarket. Where is it located? Maybe I'll scrounge a boneyard an put it on my 99.

Posted

It's located on the passenger side. Mounted behind the battery, above the inner fender. Some trucks had the jack there, I believe.

 

I'll take a pic later today if you like.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...