Front Diff Actuator

Suburban Guy · February 5, 2005

OK, previous post was regarding install of new/used front diff. 95 GMC sub K1500 with 3.73. Install went fine a little over 5 hours. No problem. I got all the way to the point where I switched the actuators and bingo, BIG problem. The actauator I have is a 5 pin plastic thing with a throw of about 2.5 inches. The axle I got was from a 94 1500 and the atuator is a 2 pin with a 3.25 inch throw.

My acuator doesn't extend long/far enough to enguage the front diff and the 2 pin leaves me with a bunch of wires hanging down.

Whats going on here? I thought all 88 - 98 fronts were the same?

Can ANYONE tell me what to do. I don't want to pull the diff again but I will if thats what I need to do. I found 96 Subs with the 2 pin and 95 subs with the 5 pin and 94

s with the 2 pin. Why did GM do this and whats the fix???

HELP.

Wendell the Suburban Guy

vhato · February 6, 2005

I don't remember the actual year GM made the switch, but anyway, in the early 90's AAM (Amercian Axle and Machine) utilized a design that required the actuator to heat up in order to slide the gear in place. This created obvious problems. While in mud the cold temperatue of the water would sometimes cause the actuator to cool andessentially removing 4WD and in colder temperatures the actuator would not engage at all. In later years 97+ (maybe 96) AAM switch to an electric motor.

You could switch to this thing called a 4x4 Posi Lock. I have an 1994 Front diff in my shed. I will go outside and examine the engagement mechanism. You be able to combine the parts and make a useful front axle.

Try here for a Posi Lock or do a search.

http://www.eastcoastoffroad.com/posi/#kseries

Suburban Guy · February 7, 2005

Ok, thanks for the info. Here's the problem thou. My wiring harness is a five pin connector, the one I got with the axle was a two pin. If I plug the 2 pin actuator into one of my connectors the actuator works but I'm left with a 5 pin connector and the 2 pin female connector hanging down and loose. I'm wondering the following:

A) What am I missing by having these wires unconnected and

B) I don't want this looking this sloppy.

At the salvage yard I was able to find several vehicles ranging from 94 to 98 with same year vehicles having both types of actautors ( 95 with a 5 pin and another 95 with a two pin and a 98 with a two pin). The throw on the actuator is 2.5 inches on my original axle and 3.25 on the newly installed axle (from a 94 Sub).

Thanks for any insight anyone to give me as to whats going on here.

Wendell

99-2door · February 7, 2005

Go to your chevy dealer and ask for a kit to adapt your 94 Chevy to the new style actuator. They will sell you a kit that has a wiring harness and a little bushing-like spacer.

Install the actuator from your 95 putting this spacer in first and then your original harness will be fine. You can toss the harness that comes in the kit.

OR

Go to the dealer and chek out the kit, measure the spacer and then find a bushing or socket or whatever that is the same size and put it in without having to buy the kit.

I have done this many times, works great.

Suburban Guy · February 7, 2005

OK, now here's a racket...

$80 for a harness and a .50 cent piece of steel.

Going to make my own and go with it. THANKS though for the info.

I've been educated.....

Wendell

Suburban Guy · February 9, 2005

OK, I didn't buy the kit. I wonder if it is intended that the axle tube be removed to install the spacer OR do you just place it in front of the actuator? Seems weird that the spacer would just ride inside with out a retainer...but?

Thats why I'm asking.

Anyone know?

Wendell