Line Output Converter

farq25 · March 14, 2005

I want to hook up an amp and subs in my 2005 Sierra Denali and need to know where is the best place to hook up the Line Output Converter for RCA terminals to the amp. The only speakers in the back are in the doors. I want to wire it up to my stock sub but I don't know where it is or how to access it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

BBSilverado · March 14, 2005

I want to hook up an amp and subs in my 2005 Sierra Denali and need to know where is the best place to hook up the Line Output Converter for RCA terminals to the amp. The only speakers in the back are in the doors. I want to wire it up to my stock sub but I don't know where it is or how to access it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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The stock sub is in the center console at the front, and the amp in under the storage area of the center console. For the LOC to work right you will have to splice that into the wires after the amp, the wires going in are allready at preamp levels (RCA). The factory sub is a dual voice coil so depending on what you want your added subs to do you may not want to use the factory sub wires for the LOC instead use the rear speaker wires and a low pass filter (if the amp you got doesn't have a crossover

farq25 · March 14, 2005

I want to hook up an amp and subs in my 2005 Sierra Denali and need to know where is the best place to hook up the Line Output Converter for RCA terminals to the amp. The only speakers in the back are in the doors. I want to wire it up to my stock sub but I don't know where it is or how to access it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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The stock sub is in the center console at the front, and the amp in under the storage area of the center console. For the LOC to work right you will have to splice that into the wires after the amp, the wires going in are allready at preamp levels (RCA). The factory sub is a dual voice coil so depending on what you want your added subs to do you may not want to use the factory sub wires for the LOC instead use the rear speaker wires and a low pass filter (if the amp you got doesn't have a crossover

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Thank's I'll hook LOC to rear speaker wires.

rcj_houston · March 17, 2005

The stock sub is in the center console at the front, and the amp in under the storage area of the center console. For the LOC to work right you will have to splice that into the wires after the amp, the wires going in are allready at preamp levels (RCA). The factory sub is a dual voice coil so depending on what you want your added subs to do you may not want to use the factory sub wires for the LOC instead use the rear speaker wires and a low pass filter (if the amp you got doesn't have a crossover

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Thank's I'll hook LOC to rear speaker wires.

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Good advise, especially if you have a factory Bose System: That is what I had to do this last weekend.

I just upgraded form a 600 watt Kenwood (200 RMS) and a 1300 watt Sony (300RMS) that fried, to a 1200 watt RMS JBL Grand Touring amplifier into 4 12" subs bridged to 1ohm. (JBL - GTO1201.1) Yes, I'm broke. I got tired of replacing cheaper amps. Anyway, I was running LOC from each rear door speaker so that when my kids plugged in the headphones it would cut off both amps under the rear seat. To make a long story short, my Bose systems caused tremendous problems due to not providing enough signal voltage from the rear doors, through the LOC converters, to the input to the amp. If I turned the volume over 3, the amp would cut on and off telling me the input voltage was not sufficient.

Apparently I need around 5 - 6 volts for the input (max). I was getting roughly less than 2 volts from the each door speaker after the LOC. Don't quote me on these numbers as I am simply happy to be listening to music again. I am asked a lot why I do not upgrade the stereo...well...I like my factory stereo. It is Factory, it fits my dash perfectly, and I paid $350 for the steering wheel controls. I can also play my MP3 player through the cassette area without a signal converter. PLUS, when you look into my 03 Tahoe, you dont see a single wire, a single amp, or even any of my woofers that reside under the rear cover. It looks factory stock. Who wants to break into a Tahoe for a stock, theft deterrent radio?

I would say that the LOC for the rear doors is fine if you stay under "say" maybe 500 watts RMS. (Root Mean Square formula). I had to have the center console taken out and tapped into the signal before it got to the rear stereo controls. Somehow the Tech made it so I can still cut off both rear amps the instant the rear stereo is cut on.

It ran me a little over $275 to have a tech professionally install the converters with the 4 gauge amp kit. (My 8 gauge was not sufficient enough to provide the appropriate power voltage to the amp) This does not count the initial cost of the amp the day before. I paid a little more than normal as I purchased a 4-year repair (free parts and labor) warranty with it. The amplifier has not cut off once since the installation was completed. Sometimes (my opinion only) you need to have a pro do it so you don't spend hours and hours and hours trying to figure out a problem that you might never figure out.

Forgive me if I am babbling. I didn't realize how far I would be taking this system so I didn't think about it in advance as far as the voltage levels for signal inputs. If you want ALOT of Serious power, I would go with a different set up than using LOC convertors at the rear doors and, also, GASP, I would recommend a different stereo than the factory one. Anyway, no slam on anyone's installation, just sharing a little $$$weekend self education$$$ with you. (Did I mention I am broke?) I ran the LOC from the rear doors just fine for over a year with a simple sub setup. I would say my system (with LOC) was truly maybe 420 watts RMS.

Side note: My next upgrade is dual alternators and to purchase an inline 110amp circuit breaker. I pop 80amp fuses like candy. (Yes, amps are wired through separate fuses and not on the same fuse). The factory said the amp draws a maximum current of 115amps without any overheating or failures.

Cheers all!

Forgive my babbling...I will check back from time to time. The project I am on has been hectic lately.

Superman TNT · April 5, 2005

Great information! ! ! This is a big help for me. I also have the factory Bose HU and I like the OEM HU better than after market. I like the fit, function and bigger buttons. Sorry but I think most of the after market HU are rather stupid with the tiny little buttons and hard to access CD slot. My dream is that some day Chevy (and others) will either offer very custom amp, sub and speaker options installed from the factory or that they will at least offer line outs and ins from the factory HU to simplify our lives.

When I took my 04 2500 HD to my local car audio place and they saw the Bose system with factory XM and On Star they wouldn't touch it. They say the same thing to Audi owners. They were willing to replace everything or nothing. I just want a little more sub (base) and to hook up my I Pod.

This forum is a big help. Thanks of the much cheaper education!! I really appreciate your taking the time to post all the details.

ChadroG · April 6, 2005

[They make a small rf modulator for items like an ipod that would enable you to by pass wiring it in. it's totally wireless and works by having the ipod in close range of the deck, that way nobody else picks up the signal in thier cars. And ditch the bose and get it over with. We had a saying where I use to install... No highs , no lows, it must be bose. Sorry bose fans but the truth hurts.

Superman TNT · April 6, 2005

[They make a small rf modulator for items like an ipod that would enable you to by pass wiring it in. it's totally wireless and works by having the ipod in close range of the deck, that way nobody else picks up the signal in thier cars. And ditch the bose and get it over with. We had a saying where I use to install... No highs , no lows, it must be bose. Sorry bose fans but the truth hurts.

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I agree that the Bose system in my new truck doesn't have the same horse power that my after market stereo had in my last truck but it isn't that bad. I can live with it. A little more base and I think I'll be able to deal with it.

As for the wireless I Pod solution, that really sucks. Sound quality stinks. I'd much rather sink money into getting a better solution for that then replacing the Bose system. There is another post in this group which has an excellent soltion for I Pods hard wired.

ChadroG · April 8, 2005

[rcj ,get you some older phoenix golds like the m or ms series. I ran an ms2125 at 1/4 ohm for two years. It would turn off in thermal protection after about 30 minutes of hard!!!!! use and won many competitions I also had a phoenix route 66 front channels stereo at 2ohm, mid channels at 2 ohms stere, and the rear channels at 1 ohm, this amp ran that way for almost a year with no heat issues, then got married and sold that car. I would get stiffening caps after breaker, this will save those alts and tighten up your bass responce. oh yeah I still use the ms2125s in my truck to this day all be it a 2 ohm on 1 and 4 ohm on the other and wifes car has a ms250 in it at 1/2 ohm. later

rcj_houston · April 18, 2005

Great information! ! ! This is a big help for me. I also have the factory Bose HU and I like the OEM HU better than after market. I like the fit, function and bigger buttons. Sorry but I think most of the after market HU are rather stupid with the tiny little buttons and hard to access CD slot. My dream is that some day Chevy (and others) will either offer very custom amp, sub and speaker options installed from the factory or that they will at least offer line outs and ins from the factory HU to simplify our lives.

When I took my 04 2500 HD to my local car audio place and they saw the Bose system with factory XM and On Star they wouldn't touch it. They say the same thing to Audi owners. They were willing to replace everything or nothing. I just want a little more sub (base) and to hook up my I Pod.

This forum is a big help. Thanks of the much cheaper education!! I really appreciate your taking the time to post all the details.

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I am glad it actually helped someone. Whenever I get time, I try to reply and catch up on posts here and there. This is by far the best web site I have been associated with. If you can not find the answer here, something is wrong...

Thanx also to ChadroG "I would get stiffening caps after breaker, this will save those alts and tighten up your bass responce." Great idea. I notice when I hit hard, it tears up my voltage guage. I definitely need the cap (on the sub amp only) and still need to do the dual alternator upgrade. Just listening at lower volumes still make my lights blink with the music. My 12 year old son thinks its too cool, but I do not. I figure two-factory alts will do the trick (140 amps each), instead of bolting some beheamoth alt under the hood. Besides--- it will look cooler, don't ya think?

I just had tile put in both upstairs bathrooms, so I am a bit tapped money wise for a few months.

Cheers...