Jump to content

Replacing Drop-in Bedliner with Spray-In


Recommended Posts

Posted

Wondering what people’s experiences have been replacing an existing drop-in bedliner with a spray-in, as opposed to starting with a new truck or one that hasn’t had a bedliner.

 

The truck is a used 2002 with 13,000 miles. It looks like it has spent its life garaged in SoCal for toy hauling duty. It currently has the GM drop-in liner, the kind that comes up over the rails and then comes over the outside edge slightly. Opening the access ports to the tiedowns, I can see there is desert/beach sand between the bedliner and the bed.

 

My main concern is that the GM bedliner which comes up over the bedrail has scuffed and scratched about 1/4 inch or so down on the outside of the bedrail. I’m planning on going over the rails with Line-X. In my case should I have them spray the Line-X on the outside of the rails as far down as the scratches and scuffs go? Will that bond well and look good? Or will they only spray to the edge without rounding over it and coming down a little? Or should I just live with the scratches and try to rub-out as much as I can?

 

What happens if there are small dents in the bed? Will they fill them in a little or will the dents be just as obvious?

 

Does the plastic molding that comes up and over the tailgate remain in place, or does that get removed? Kinda hard to tell on the pics on the Line-X website, though it does look like that peice might stay in or get put back. Even if it will be there after the Line-X, I wonder if it is removed first so they can spray underneath it and then re-install the piece.

 

Anyone know the going rate to have this done to the short bed of a full size GM truck in SoCal? There are two Line-X places near me in the San Diego area, one in El Cajon and the other in National City, anyone have experiences with these folks?

 

Thanks,

 

Thomas

Posted

Had a spray in done to replace my drop in liner. Though that was shortly after getting the truck. My drop in wasn't over the rail though, so I don't really have anything to advise you on there. Other than that, the tailgate end(whale tail if you will) stayed on and they sprayed up to it from what I can see. I've been happy with the spray and would do it again.

Posted

Line-x can spray their bed liner anywhere. I have done whole trucks myself with dupli-color bed liner just sand well and clean well before spraying and it sticks. So rounding a corner is not a problem, as for looks I like it and it is very practical you can slide stuff in or out and not scratch paint. But that's just me.

Posted

You'll wonder what took you so long. It will cover most everything. It all has to be sanded so if you think it's scuffed up now :D Look at it after prep. Dents are dents. You will still be able to dent it. But line x is a quality product. :cry:

Posted

I didn't go with Line-x when I had mine done, just went to a place nearby the dealer recommended if I recall. But in general, love the spray and will do it again on the next one. For hauling whatever I need to from building materials, to lawn and garden, to whatever bought at the store, load it up and no worries.

Posted

In my opinion i think the drop in or bed mat is the way to go. I work at a dealership and i see all kinds of spray ins in trucks all the time and the ones i saw didnt hold up worth a crap. There either faded, peeling off or dents all over the bed. Plus on the spray ins i have seen every time you wash your your truck with soap the soap turns the bed white when it dries and is a pain to get off. I would prolly get a spray in if i had a old truck but on a new one that would be my last choice. Id keep the drop in no one can see underneath it and they look the best.

Posted

How about a set of GM side bed rail caps? I have a set on my 01 and i also have a spray in liner. I like the look of the GM bed rail caps, it goes well with the tailgate cap, and they stick down about an inch. I installed the bed rail caps when the truck was new because I thought I would install a cap, and remove it everytime I towed. I ended up with a soft cover and it looks good with the black bed rail caps.

594166_12_full.jpg

 

Picture with spray in liner

  • 1 year later...
Posted
In my opinion i think the drop in or bed mat is the way to go.  I work at a dealership and i see all kinds of spray ins in trucks all the time and the ones i saw didnt hold up worth a crap.  There either faded, peeling off or dents all over the bed.  Plus on the spray ins i have seen every time you wash your your truck with soap the soap turns the bed white when it dries and is a pain to get off.  I would prolly get a spray in if i had a old truck but on a new one that would be my last choice.  Id keep the drop in no one can see underneath it and they look the best.

 

 

 

 

I'm really not sure what you're talking about. I've had several Rhinolined trucks before and was impressed by every single one of them. They all held up VERY well. None of them faded (except where they had equipment dragged across), but there are conditioners you can buy to polish it up to look like new. I'm not sure that this is a SPRAY IN SPECIFIC problem like you're trying to imply, as just about any texture WILL scuff and fade over time if you drag enough heavy objects over. I'm also not sure how you think drop-ins look the best but to each his own... I personally LOVE the look of a Rhinoliner (or other spray-in) because they conform directly to the bed, there's no wasted inches on the side or below and just look slick overall. You can't see under a spray-in liner, either... :happysad: so, I'm not sure where that part is relevant... Also, another plus of a spray-in over a drop-in is that there's no way the spray-in can scratch the bed through the natural movement and freeplay that they all have so thus water getting into one tiny little scratch and rusting the whole bed out is never a worry. If you saw a spray-in peeling off, that's a dealer mistake and should be taken back for repair. Oh, that's another thing... Spray-ins can be repaired if you're very abusive whereas a drop-in cannot. Most sprayin dealers offer a lifetime warranty... what do you get with a drop-in?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 293 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...