Jump to content

CD Changer in 05 non-lux Nav system


Recommended Posts

Posted

Linda Help! :confused:

 

I work at a dealership and have purchase a 05 Tahoe with a factory TNR system. I bought a 6 disc indash unit off ebay. Used your wiring diagram and wired it up using the small red wire for data bus. It work for a couple of minutes. It recognized the changer and played fine. It quite working and the Nav system is have some issues. I dug in the wiring diagrams looking the 5072 circut (tan bus wire for the CDX). Because I don't have the lux package I can't find it in the console or the side of the IP. I pluged in the tech II tool and it doesn't show the changer hooked up. I also read the 2 codes on the Nav unit that show lost connection on the data bus side. I use a splice on the data wire in case I need to return it stock look for warranty issues. Do you think this may the cause? I have read in the service manual the data bus is very sensitive to wire length and shielding.

 

Oh yea even with the cdx unplugged I still have issue with nav system. Any ideas?

 

Thanks

Jeff

:cry:

Posted

Hey!

 

Great news I went home last night after looking at all of the schematics that I could on the data buss on my Tahoe. I figure it is just one big network connection using splice packs like Linda has talk about on the board before so I went ahead and soldered the cdx data wire to the class II data wire on the HU. It works beautiful and the Nav is operating perfectly. Apparently the splice that I was using on the data buss wire was not making a good enough connection and was causing an open in the network.

 

I must say thanks again to everyone who has contributed to this type of installed.

 

 

Jeff

:thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...