Jump to content

Timing Question


Recommended Posts

Posted

When I pulled my distributor out of my 89 GMC van (5.7 TBI), I marked my engine for the position, but failed to mark the position under the cap. Now the thing wont start and I have no clue how to redo the timing!

 

Any help is appreciated!

Posted

First off, get a chilton's or equivalent so you know what cylinder's what.

Take the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder and using a screw driver as a guide, SLOWLY rotate the engine by hand until the #1 piston is at Top Dead Center.

Install your distributor to point at the #1 plug wire (on the cap). Replace the plug, install the cap and start it.

You have a 50/50 shot that it's right. If it backfires throught the TBI, rotate the distributor 180 degrees and hit it again.

(The piston goes to TDC twice on a cycle)

Also, as the distributor gear engages the cam gear, the distributor will rotate slightly, so you have to practice a time or two to get the right spot.

Posted
First off, get a chilton's or equivalent so you know what cylinder's what.

Take the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder and using a screw driver as a guide, SLOWLY rotate the engine by hand until the #1 piston is at Top Dead Center.

Install your distributor to point at the #1 plug wire (on the cap). Replace the plug, install the cap and start it.

You have a 50/50 shot that it's right. If it backfires throught the TBI, rotate the distributor 180 degrees and hit it again.

(The piston goes to TDC twice on a cycle)

Also, as the distributor gear engages the cam gear, the distributor will rotate slightly, so you have to practice a time or two to get the right spot.

 

 

 

 

Thanks. I have a chiltons and I know what cylinder is what. What is the best way to know when the cylinder is at TDC? Thanks again.

Posted

When you have the screw drive down in the plug hole, it will be the point where teh screwdriver is not pushed up any further, right before it goes back down.

Posted

Much easier way, look at the crankshaft dampener at the timing marks. When the mark on the dampener lines up with the "0" on the timing tab, you are either on #1 or #6. Try the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1, if it pops back through thr carb, pull the distributor out enough to clear the gears and turn the rotor exactly 180 degrees and drop back in.

Posted

Looking at the underside of the distributor, is there only 2 ways that it can fit back into the engine? there is a bar that is inside the gearing at the very bottom of it. Likewise, down in the engine, there is a small notch that the bar fits into. Am I correct on this?

 

Also, is it usually difficult to get the distributor back in place on the engine (getting the gears to mesh? I did it once, but it is a real pain!

Posted

Success!!! Thank you everyone for your help! :D

 

One more question, what is the best way to get the engine running correctly? Right now it is running, but a bit rough. Should I rotate the distributor while the engine is running till it sounds better? Do I need to use a timing light? If so, what is the proceedure for using one?

 

Thanks again!

Posted
Use a light. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum advance or the timing connector.

 

 

 

 

Did that, but I am not able to use a timing light. When cylinder 1 is at TDC the timing mark is off. It is about 90 degrees counterclockwise of where it should be. I belive the engine was rebuilt before I bought it and the crank may not have been assembled correctly.

 

Since I can't use a light, what is the best way to do this? I need to pass emmissions. If I error on the side of caution, is it better to be too advanced or retarded ( :cheers: )?

 

Thanks.

Posted
Use a light. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum advance or the timing connector.

 

 

 

 

Did that, but I am not able to use a timing light. When cylinder 1 is at TDC the timing mark is off. It is about 90 degrees counterclockwise of where it should be. I belive the engine was rebuilt before I bought it and the crank may not have been assembled correctly.

 

Since I can't use a light, what is the best way to do this? I need to pass emmissions. If I error on the side of caution, is it better to be too advanced or retarded ( :cheers: )?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

The crank dampner is bad and has slipped. The only real way is to replace the dampner or guess and then you probably wont pass.

Posted
Use a light. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum advance or the timing connector.

 

 

 

 

Did that, but I am not able to use a timing light. When cylinder 1 is at TDC the timing mark is off. It is about 90 degrees counterclockwise of where it should be. I belive the engine was rebuilt before I bought it and the crank may not have been assembled correctly.

 

Since I can't use a light, what is the best way to do this? I need to pass emmissions. If I error on the side of caution, is it better to be too advanced or retarded ( :cheers: )?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

The crank dampner is bad and has slipped. The only real way is to replace the dampner or guess and then you probably wont pass.

 

 

 

 

 

Is that tough to do? What is the proceedure?

 

Thanks.

Posted
Use a light. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum advance or the timing connector.

 

 

 

 

Did that, but I am not able to use a timing light. When cylinder 1 is at TDC the timing mark is off. It is about 90 degrees counterclockwise of where it should be. I belive the engine was rebuilt before I bought it and the crank may not have been assembled correctly.

 

Since I can't use a light, what is the best way to do this? I need to pass emmissions. If I error on the side of caution, is it better to be too advanced or retarded ( :cheers: )?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

The crank dampner is bad and has slipped. The only real way is to replace the dampner or guess and then you probably wont pass.

 

 

 

 

 

Is that tough to do? What is the proceedure?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

You will have to remove the radiator and all belts. Remove the 3 bolts 9/16 and then there is a center bolt 5/8 with pully off you will need a specal puller that bolts to the 3 holes in the damper. Pull the damper off & replace the damper. The damper must be pulled back on with a nother puller. Usually the auto parts stores will rent you the puller kit.

Posted
Use a light. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum advance or the timing connector.

 

 

 

 

Did that, but I am not able to use a timing light. When cylinder 1 is at TDC the timing mark is off. It is about 90 degrees counterclockwise of where it should be. I belive the engine was rebuilt before I bought it and the crank may not have been assembled correctly.

 

Since I can't use a light, what is the best way to do this? I need to pass emmissions. If I error on the side of caution, is it better to be too advanced or retarded ( :cheers: )?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

Is a harmonic balancer the same thing as a dampner?

 

The crank dampner is bad and has slipped. The only real way is to replace the dampner or guess and then you probably wont pass.

 

 

 

 

 

Is that tough to do? What is the proceedure?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

You will have to remove the radiator and all belts. Remove the 3 bolts 9/16 and then there is a center bolt 5/8 with pully off you will need a specal puller that bolts to the 3 holes in the damper. Pull the damper off & replace the damper. The damper must be pulled back on with a nother puller. Usually the auto parts stores will rent you the puller kit.

 

 

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,168 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You're better read than that Atlas. 😏   British science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke formulated three adages that are known as Clarke's three laws, of which the third law – that "any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" – is the best known and most widely cited.   Stribeck and the pivotable Hersey Number isn't voodoo nor snake oil. That part is physics. It's what marketing and bean counters do with it that is snake oil and voodoo.    Stribeck is the relationship between Hersey and the Coefficient of Friction. Within the Hersey Equation if viscosity and viscosity is 'Dependent' on.......heat.......and.......viscosity index or the temperature to viscosity slope.    Specifically Hersey is the viscosity AT THE TEMPERATURE IN THAT LOCATION FOR THAT SLOPE.   Hydrodynamic lubrication exist when the film thickness in the location is 3X the Ra roughness of the surface. This is irrespective of the hardness of the substrate. To obtain that thickness X viscosity is required for Y velocity at Z load. That's a lot of moving parts. It is also impossible to maintain in an ICE but nearly possible with a turbine under constant load.    What does that mean? Error heavy and operate light. Wear is inevitable but the rate of wear and the milage obtainable are a function of prevailing conditions and HABITS. The only penalty is viscous drag and at fractions so low as to be well worth the effort. Double the life, half the manufacturing carbon foot print. Greed is the only impediment.    The materials generated by SwRI are the RESULT not an estimation or a hypothesis.    Don't delude yourself sir, EV's have as many pitfalls as ICE's. We just don't know what they are yet and it will take longer to sort as MARKETING and GREEDY CEO's have had more time to polish the turd they are selling. 
    • You can always count on greed to prey on ignorance and stupidity.    Friend bought a 2019 Ford Flex and asked me about using Valvoline R&P 5W30 in it. Told him give the miles on it and the fact it wasn't yet using oil that it was a good plan. He uses a Valvoline quick change shop for his oil service.   First they tell him that isn't the oil the OEM recommends. He told them he didn't care what the OEM thought. Then they floated the, "But it will void your warranty"    His reply was it's a 2019, there is no warranty and informed them their knowledge of the law was lacking.    Then they tell him 'But it will ruin your motor"!.    Mine to ruin he says. Finally they give in and charge him 150% the semi-syn price    Point it the brainwash is so embedded that even the service industry is drunk on their swill. The public is right behind them. Echoing the same lies on every forum and media platform. If the end goal is indeed EV then I'd say that ship is about built. 
    • Diesel hit $6.00 here today at the truck stop.   Payed $2.79 for E85 today too.
    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...