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Ball Joint Replacement


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Posted

I did a search but didn't find what I was looking for.

 

I noticed quite awhile ago that the driver side lower ball joint grease boot was leaking grease. Last weekend when I went to grease everything I noticed that now both passenger upper and lower ball joint grease boots are leaking grease just about as fast as I put it in.

 

Is it true that the only way to replace the boot is to replace the ball joint itself? I realize that if the ball joints don't have grease that they go bad so I'm guessing the ball joints probably need replaced anyway. How difficult is it to replace them myself? What tools are needed? If I replace them (or have them replaced) is there anything else I should replace while I have everything apart...tie rod ends, etc? How much is this going to set me back?

 

Thanks in advance.

B.J.

Posted

IT IS TURE, AND WITH THAT MILEAGE ON IT, IF THEY HAVE NOT BEEN REPLACED YET, THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THEM.

 

GM BALL JOINT ARE CRAP MOST OF THEM WEAR OUT AT 50,000 MILES

Posted

GM BALL JOINT ARE CRAP MOST OF THEM WEAR OUT AT 50,000 MILES

 

I think you are going a little overboard on the wear unless you dont grease them or you abuse your truck alot. I get 75-100000mi out of my trucks with no suspension parts needing replacement and there are many other owners that do much more than that.

Posted

1/8 PLAY ON A GM BALL JOINT IS CONSITERED AS WORN OUT, IT SHOULD HAVE 0 PLAY. MOST PEOPLE CANT EVEN TELL THAT THEY ARE WORN, EVEN IF YOU GREASE THEM AROUND 50K THEY WILL HAVE PLAY.

 

I HANDLE WARRANTY CLAIMS ON GM VEHICLES AND THATS ABOUT THE MILEAGE I SEE BALL JOINTS BEING CALLED IN AT FOR BEING WORN OUT

Posted
1/8 PLAY ON A GM BALL JOINT IS CONSITERED AS WORN OUT, IT SHOULD HAVE 0 PLAY. MOST PEOPLE CANT EVEN TELL THAT THEY ARE WORN, EVEN IF YOU GREASE THEM AROUND 50K THEY WILL HAVE PLAY.

 

I HANDLE WARRANTY CLAIMS ON GM VEHICLES AND THATS ABOUT THE MILEAGE I SEE BALL JOINTS BEING CALLED IN AT FOR BEING WORN OUT

 

 

 

 

I am a an ASC & Mi certified mechanic with 30 yrs in the trade and if the suspension isnt lubed on a regular basis and its been driven hard and put to bed wet (so to speak) its not going to live. Most people use the drivethrough lube placed and i can guarantee you most havent been greased in a while and if they have the drivers abuse their vehicles. I put 35-40000mi a year on my trucks and never have had suspension falure before 125000mi. Dont be so quick to blame GM since they are using MOOG parts and they are on of the best.

Posted

Yes, you have to separate the ball joint from the control arm to replace the boot and yes, at this point you should just replace them.

 

I grease all 11 zerks every oil change and at 135K, the front end was getting loose. I was very happy with the mileage I got out of the front end as I drive pretty hard and offroad occasionally. I replaced the following:

 

Ball joints x 4

Tie rod ends x 4

Control Arm Bushings x8

Pitman Arm

Idler Arm

Sway Bar Links

 

I figured if the ball joints were going then other components were wearing at a similar rate. If I was going to replace the ball joints, I just decided to do everything. I would check everything for play. If there is any, it needs to be replaced. If everything else it tight, just do ball joints.

 

Total cost...around $600 for parts and I did it myself. The ball joints were around $30 each. I used Moog HD for everything I could.

 

Special Tools...aside from a 15 ton press, a pitman arm puller, and a 2 jaw puller, I used standard tools. It took me about 1 whole day which included a drive to my office to use the press for the ball joints and control arm bushings. You could always find a local machine shop for the press. They should press change them out for you for reasonable $$.

 

One tricky part is unloading the torsion bars (if you have 4x4). There is a special tool ($90) but I used a 5-ton 2 jaw pulles. If you do this, BE VERY CAREFUL as there is a lot of tension on the T-bars and you don't want to be around it if it lets go.

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